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Head gasket, which one?

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Thanks Sepulchrave.

 

DB.

 

From what you say the cam timing is set up absolutely spot on therefore the only logical diagnosis is that the wrong head gasket has been used, which is a bloody nuisance to say the least.

I have played around for hours setting the Torsion Values at different values and then re-setting the ECU, it is currently set at 00.00 which seems the best available, but it's nothing like the power it used to have even when it had the worn valve guides and a suspected head gasket.

On just checking the head gasket I can see it's a 3 Notch version, am I to assume then that this would give a lower compression pressure and produce the symptoms I am experiencing of loss of power and a 10% drop in MPG.

DB.

I kind of have the same problem, I replaced my headgasket and whilst I was there I replaced the valves, camshaft, bearings and tappets and so far it's definitely isn't the same as what it used to be, even with using the same thickness gasket :(

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^  Who did the actual head rebuild.  The two times Jabbasport ported my head - I know they did a "brush" of the head surface just to check really, but they fitted my valves (including oversized exhaust valves :D) and did all the work before sending it back to me, and it's fitted and working nicely.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Who did the actual head rebuild. The two times Jabbasport ported my head - I know they did a "brush" of the head surface just to check really, but they fitted my valves (including oversized exhaust valves :D) and did all the work before sending it back to me, and it's fitted and working nicely.

I did it :) but had the valves cut and seated by a local company.

Also whilst I'm on the topic does anyone know or have a link to the torque values and sequence for fitting the head bolts? Might just have to do the bolts for now as I'm at croft on Friday and don't know if the head gasket will be here in time

 

Is yours the ASZ engine Tom?

 

If so, this is from the Haynes manual for the ASZ. There is both a slackening and tightening sequence...

 

Slackening sequence

Slackening.jpg

 

Tightening sequence

Tightening.jpg

 

 

Torque values...

Stage1 - 40Nm / 30lbf ft

Stage2 - 60Nm / 44lbf ft

Stage3 - 90 Degrees

Stage4 - 90 Degrees

  • Author

Is yours the ASZ engine Tom?

If so, this is from the Haynes manual for the ASZ. There is both a slackening and tightening sequence...

Slackening sequence

Slackening.jpg

Tightening sequence

Tightening.jpg

Torque values...

Stage1 - 40Nm / 30lbf ft

Stage2 - 60Nm / 44lbf ft

Stage3 - 90 Degrees

Stage4 - 90 Degrees

yeh mines ASZ mate. I've been speaking to CosKev and from what I understand if I'm only changing the head bolts I can do them one at a time- take one out, put it back in, tighten etc, just wondering if I would still have to follow the sequence when removing and fitting one at a time

I think it would probably be advisable to follow the undo sequence when doing a full undo and torque up of bolts. :)

Yes you should be fine without the sequence if only doing one at a time.

Keep in mind just changing the bolts can just make things worse...

"If it ain't broke... it's gonna be."

You can just do the first two stages in one go, so 100nm then do your two angle stages :)

 

You will need a good strong breaker bar to do the final stage!

 

Keep in mind just changing the is bolts can just make things worse...

"If it ain't broke... it's gonna be."

 

Where has that nugget of useless info come from?

 

Removing and refitting ONE bolt at a time will be fine.

There are 9 other headbolts holding the head perfectly flat at all times :)

 

I think it would probably be advisable to follow the undo sequence when doing a full undo and torque up of bolts. :)

 
No need to follow a sequence at all doing one bolt at a time, the sequence is to stop the head warping as the pressure is released by the bolts, like wise when refitting a head its to ensure its pulled down perfectly flat.
  • 5 months later...

Just bought a vrs that recently had a head gasket change and new pd150 bolts fitted. Guy said I needed to retorque the bolts after a little while. Trying to find info on this but not found anything. Can anybody tell me if this is true. Not sure how you'd retorque them as they need angle torquing.

 

Cheers

Not true, you can't check them.

Cheers mate was guessing that might be the case mate as would be impossible with angle torque

I'd only suggest getting a torque wrench, set it about 130nm and keep pushing until it clicks and adding 5nm until it turns it slightly, then you will have a guide at how tight then are.

My pd150 head bolts clicked around 150nm when I checked.

  • 4 months later...

would it be best to run a 3 hole gasket if running a gtb2260 with dssr 130% going to be changing mine shortly 

would it be best to run a 3 hole gasket if running a gtb2260 with dssr 130% going to be changing mine shortly 

 

No, run the gasket you should be running based on whatever you have in there now, or if you have head off, measure piston protrusion.  Trying to lower compression by using thicker gasket can cause issues (told by very experienced TDI tuner / engineer in Finland).

 

It goes something like 1.01 - 1.10 = 1 hole 1.11 to 1.20 = 2 hole, 1.21 to 1.30 =  3 hole.

 

Mine was 1.25mm so was correct to use a 3 hole gasket.

Darksides website lists the compressed thickness of the gaskets, I originally had a 2 holed gasket on mine, but when I removed head and had it skimmed I changed to a 3 holed gasket to compensate for the amount skimmed off the head to regain the original CR.

Darksides website lists the compressed thickness of the gaskets, I originally had a 2 holed gasket on mine, but when I removed head and had it skimmed I changed to a 3 holed gasket to compensate for the amount skimmed off the head to regain the original CR.

The head is flat though, so you don't alter compression skimming head :)

Aslong as valves are reseated to the depth they were as standard that is, but even if not the difference in compression would be minute.

The head is flat though, so you don't alter compression skimming head :)

Aslong as valves are reseated to the depth they were as standard that is, but even if not the difference in compression would be minute.

Yeah stupid me, I knew what I ment but didn't word it correctly, using the 3 holed gasket has kept the original clearance from piston crown to valve face

Yeah stupid me, I knew what I ment but didn't word it correctly, using the 3 holed gasket has kept the original clearance from piston crown to valve face

The place that skimmed mine measured valve protrusion before skimming, then after skimming reseated the valves to the same depth as they were standard so the protrusion is the same ;)

The place that skimmed mine measured valve protrusion before skimming, then after skimming reseated the valves to the same depth as they were standard so the protrusion is the same ;)

 

Like Punch and Judy say - "That's the way to do it"

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