For what it's worth your boost looks ok at least.  I think it might be a tiny bit less than I've seen. I will compare your values this evening (dont have my logs on me) and report back.

 

I think I remember seeing a boost value of 2601 at peak.

 

Your MAF values look ok to me from what I remember, 1275 peak.

 

Do you hear the turbo spool up under hard acceleration?

 

Guessing no other faults shown on VCDS?

 

Under engine measuring blocks on a cold engine do all the temperature sensors show ambient temps? E.g. Fuel and coolant temps the same (ish) as the ambient outside temps?

 

I think my torsion values are in the negative.

 

Might be worth popping off the fuel filter lid to check the state of the diesel fuel filter.

Edited 12 February, 201511 yr by Plantman

Here are a couple from mine.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzQVU4oeZjv5QXFqYi1SZVZsX2s/view?usp=sharing

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzQVU4oeZjv5d2x5enBMVHBsZzA/view?usp=sharing

Edited 12 February, 201511 yr by Plantman

For what it's worth your boost looks ok at least.  I think it might be a tiny bit less than I've seen. I will compare your values this evening (dont have my logs on me) and report back.

Thanks for the logs, they do look very similar to me, although it is a bit strange that the peeks are on both logs the same (2601 and 1275)...

I think I remember seeing a boost value of 2601 at peak.

 

Your MAF values look ok to me from what I remember, 1275 peak.

 

Do you hear the turbo spool up under hard acceleration?

Not really hear it but can certainly feel it when it kicks in

Guessing no other faults shown on VCDS?

There are some other faults but not related (something about driver’s door light etc.) and glow plug short circuit on cyl 3 (this is new fault)

Under engine measuring blocks on a cold engine do all the temperature sensors show ambient temps? E.g. Fuel and coolant temps the same (ish) as the ambient outside temps?

Will do this on Friday or Saturday, just very busy recent days :(

I think my torsion values are in the negative.

Don't know what exactly this means

Might be worth popping off the fuel filter lid to check the state of the diesel fuel filter.

Have done that, in fact I have replaced all filters except oil one and oil itself - been serviced few weeks before I bought it.

 

To be honest the car seems more powerful and it does keep revs better when setting off. There is also nice feel of power in 2^nd gear similar to the Fabia I’ve had before but still sluggish in 4^th, 5^th and 6^th on the motorway. Might be really the added weight but won’t know until I try another Octy with the same engine.

Morning starting is still an issue. It’s not like I’d have to keep cranking for ages, usually fires up in 1-3 seconds, but when it does it first holds around 500rpm for 2 secs or so, then jump up to 1200 for another few secs and then finally settles down to +-840. I know the glow plugs are shot but it happens even with mild temperature – last time was around 9 °C.

Would be great if anyone can make a productive comment about fuel1 and fuel2 logs too.

 

Will probably put her on terraclean treatment and see what happens…

...

Under engine measuring blocks on a cold engine do all the temperature sensors show ambient temps? E.g. Fuel and coolant temps the same (ish) as the ambient outside temps?

...

 

Hi there,

have had time to look at it and have made a log during starting, was running for minute or so. Looks good to me?

LOG-01-007-TEMP.csv

I have just reviewed the whole thread and your logs.  Your turbo min and max values seem fine although there is some significant variation in requested and actual boost (could indicate sticky turbine vanes (I am aware you have cleaned them) or a leak in the pipe work / lazy valve or turbo actuator). MAF and coolant temperature sensor look ok too. Although I would be tempted to disconnect the MAF and try it out for a while to see if there is any improvement (now you have access to VCDS you can easily clear the fault it will generate).

 

I agree with Plantman it might be worth changing the fuel filter - whilst doing that I would be tempted to fill the filter with some injector cleaner.

 

I would also replace the glow plugs and the wiring loom in the cylinder head and see how that goes.

 

Now that you have a new battery how fast does the engine turn over when starting?

Thanks for your reply,

 

will drop her off for terraclean treatment which cleans the injectors and will change the fuel filter prior that.

the glow plugs are ordered and will probable order new wiring loom just don't want to spent £100 if it does not help...

 

The original battery was 6 years old so there was improvement in cranking power but when it's fire up it's still the same. Fires up at 500 rpm for 2 secs or so then jumps to 1100-1200 for another second and then settles down to 840ish. When it is on 500 it sounds like very lumpy. Will post a video but only caught "better case", of course when it struggles my phone is deep in pocket :(.

I would save your money on the terraclean and just do the fuel filter and put a full bottle of injector cleaner neat into the new filter and then one in the tank and give it a good run ( ensure you do not have much fuel in the tank as some of the cleaner may get recirculated).  The money you will save will pay for the wiring loom.

 

The loom is expensive but as mentioned earlier in the post the connectors do not like it when they are removed because they become very brittle due to the cyclic nature of the engine heating up and cooling down. 

 

Have you checked your air filter ?

I guess I can try injector cleaner first as the terraclean is around £100 too. Do you have any recommendation of which of the cleaner works well (or link to certain product)? Yeah didn't plan to just check the wiring loom, either leave it or replace it.

 

Air filter was one of the first things I've replaced.

I've heard good things about the power maxxed stuff but have not tried it personally. I usually use Wynns, Forte or Comma.

 

If it were my money I would just replace the loom and glow plugs after I have done the injectors.

I've heard good things about the power maxxed stuff but have not tried it personally. I usually use Wynns, Forte or Comma.

 

If it were my money I would just replace the loom and glow plugs after I have done the injectors.

 

http://www.powermaxed.com/car-additives/diesel-injector-cleaner-fuel-treatment  - this one? How many bottles will be needed to fill the fuel filter housing with it?

I usually buy two bottles of any injector cleaner, one for the housing and one for the tank (try to have less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel). Then give it a good blast through on the motorway (20 - 30 miles) (keep gearing low and revs higher than normal). Then fill with premium diesel. 

 

Yes thats the one. You can post a review when you've tried it for the rest of the forum if you like.

Ok will get coule of these.

We have more than half tank of fuel now so will take couple of weeks to get it lower but report will be here when it's done.

 

Thanks for now

Here is a video how it sounds during starting, it's not so bad as it could be (and sometimes is). This was taken today morning. Later on, after 4 hours standing outside didn't fire up first time, just died after 2 seconds being on around 500rpm but fired up instantly on second attempt. I know that with bad glow plugs this is quite normal at this temperature but it also starts like that even if the temp is 9-12 °C.

But will see how things will change with new glow plugs and wiring loom...

 

Here is a video how it sounds during starting, it's not so bad as it could be (and sometimes is). This was taken today morning. Later on, after 4 hours standing outside didn't fire up first time, just died after 2 seconds being on around 500rpm but fired up instantly on second attempt. I know that with bad glow plugs this is quite normal at this temperature but it also starts like that even if the temp is 9-12 °C.

But will see how things will change with new glow plugs and wiring loom...

 

The video does not work.

The video does not work.

 

Have never uploaded video to youtube before    and set it as private... should be ok now?

Friday afternoon is probably the worst day to do some logging if you live in/near Manchester . Thank god for M602...

 

Well, have done the logs as per Johns instruction but screwed up MAF as I just tested how exactly logging works and forgot to select rewrite file on hot run so the log is from the test drive (and not saying much). Will log it again on Sunday. Don't understand group 8, 9 and what group 13 suppose to do but 11 (boost?) looks good to me which suggest turbo is fine?

Anyway have a look please. Thanks in advance.

 

Sorry for the delay. Been very busy.

 

All looks good to me. Nothing is restricting the fuel. Torque limiter is the lowest fuelling request which is by design. Boost is a little wavey but then follows requested.

Right so did second run to log group 3 properly, please see the results and comment.

Again fine. Its peaks and then dipped at the beginning which is due to the boost over boost. This isn't normal really but it wouldn't restrict fuelling/power.

Again fine. Its peaks and then dipped at the beginning which is due to the boost over boost. This isn't normal really but it wouldn't restrict fuelling/power.

 

Any idea why is this happening? Sticky vanes? As I said I can feel improvement over time since I started using millers and rev it, looks like partially clogged injectors affecting spray pattern hence poor starting and power? Have ordered power maxed as per radders567s recommendation so this hopefully will help clean the injectors. Will report back.

 

Thank you all for now

Hi there,

have had time to look at it and have made a log during starting, was running for minute or so. Looks good to me?

 

Yup, would say they look fine, working as they should.

 

Mine is sometimes rough like that on start up.  If I let it sit for a day or two it is worse.   Also, at this time of year the engine idles pretty rough too, at least until it has warmed up.  Could be a lazy injector which smooths out when the engine gets up to temp.

 

When the engine is hot, this work as they should. 

 

I've learned to live with it, since there has never been a fault found.

Yup, would say they look fine, working as they should.

 

Mine is sometimes rough like that on start up.  If I let it sit for a day or two it is worse.   Also, at this time of year the engine idles pretty rough too, at least until it has warmed up.  Could be a lazy injector which smooths out when the engine gets up to temp.

 

When the engine is hot, this work as they should. 

 

I've learned to live with it, since there has never been a fault found.

 

On the afternoon that day I made the video, car was starting much worse (of course my phone was in the pocket...). As usual it wanted to fire up at 500rpm then jumped to around 1200 but then again returned to 450-500, holding there for 3 seconds and stalled. On second attempt fired up right away though.

Will see what the injector cleaner will do to them .

So little update on this.

Have used the Power Maxed injector cleaner as radders567s suggested and changed fuel filter, oil&filter. With good results. Car has more power now, although it's not pulling so strong as Fabia, especially in 5th and 6th gear but that is due to added weight so happy with that and remap will sort it out . Setting of from the lights is much smoother, no need to press the accelerator pedal too much and revs don't drop down too much either so that's improved as well. It looks like I have almost sorted running problems. Will keep using fuel additive (probably Miller) and will try terraclean next year.

Starting problems remain though. With hotter weather it is better so doesn't bother me at all atm. The car still has odd juddering in idle but it's not rattling so it doesn't look like dmf. My torsion value is 1.0 and I read on audi forum that the bkd engine likes the torsion value be around 0 - 0.5 so will try this as a next step. The audi guys mentioned that Injection Quantity Deviation, measured in group 13, should be within -0.50 to 0.50mg/str. On my car, cyls 2 and 4 are around 0, cyl 3 around 0.30 but cyl 1 has the value jumping around 0.35 to 0.55. After few minutes of observation it looks like the juddering occurs when the value drops down to .30s. Wonder if the juddering is caused by cyl 1 or it is just a result of the juddering...

Also vnt in turbo is sticking again, have had limp mode due to overboost condition. Looks like time to take the turbo out and give it good clean.

I just realized that I didn't update my thread...

After my problems with new turbo (old one packed up), one garage suggested to check the timing. As I mentioned few times, my torsion value was 1.0. As it was explained to me, there is no way how to set timing properly with VCDS on this engines and locking pins have to be used. When they set the timing on locking pins, torsion value changed to -1.5 and guess what...juddering on idle is gone, starting problems gone, it's setting off smoothly, power is back where it should be. It's hard to describe but the car feels like it has new engine.

Thanks for help guys