Ran a VCDS scan yesterday.

Showed that 3 glow plugs are open circuit. 1,2 and 4. (Is no.1 cylinder at the cambelt end?)

Car starts absolutely fine, though - no problems at all.

 

However, I'm going to try and check the resistance of each a bit later (expecting <= 1 ohm) between connector and body. If outside this then considered open circuit. Does that sound right?

 

I'm guessing that these dont get replaced very often but wondered if anyone has an opinion on the replacements in terms of quality, reliabilty etc.

 

Phoned local Skoda dealer - quoted £20.62 each.

 

Eurocarparts have 3 listed for my car (2.0TDi BMM) - Beru @£11.76, Bosch @£11.94 and Denso @£13.80

 

Anyone advise on which I should get should they need to be replaced?

 

cheers

If you do need to replace them I would go with the Bosch ones.

Any particular reason? Do bosch make the OEM glow plugs?

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No 1 cylinder is the cambelt end.

Your car has 2 makes of glow plugs listed in etka as original equipment (Beru and Bosch):

http://vagfans.info/EN/skoda/CZ/OCT/Octavia/2008/419/R/905/905010/ignition-coil-spark-plug-impulse-sender-glow-plug

BERU

D - 01.01.2006>> N10591602 ? M10X1X30 BERU ;4 BMM TM0 - 4-cylinder diesel engine 2.0 L unit 03G.7 [GMO - Base engine]

Beru part number: GE100

http://beru.federalmogul.com/en-gb/e-catalogue/cross-reference/N10591602

BOSCH

D - 01.01.2006>> N10591603 ? M10X1X30 BOSCH ;4 BMM TM0 - 4-cylinder diesel engine 2.0 L unit 03G.7 [GMO - Base engine]

Bosch part number: 0 250 402 005

http://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/en/internet/ECAT/vehicle-info/-/vehicle/equip/SKO/293/1fhjcdo0aeg6nqe1g185obh0b3co0md5

Any particular reason? Do bosch make the OEM glow plugs?

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Just personal preference. As Owl has stated, they were both fitted from new, I just think Bosch is a more reputable brand than Beru (In my opinion).

thanks for the replies guys and the very useful info.

 

I have now checked the resistance of each of the glow plugs with the results as follows:-

1. Fully open circuit - cannot get any reading so in excess of 20 mega ohms
2. 40 ohms
3. 0.01 ohms (the good one)
4. 920 ohms

So VCDS was bang on with its results.

 

I removed the no.2 cylinder glow plug.  The details match the Bosch data posted by Owl

 

 

BOSCH
D - 01.01.2006>> N10591603 ? M10X1X30 BOSCH ;4 BMM TM0 - 4-cylinder diesel engine 2.0 L unit 03G.7 [GMO - Base engine]
Bosch part number: 0 250 402 005
http://www.bosch-aut...185obh0b3co0md5

Details taken from the glow plug body read as follows:-

BOSCH

0 250 402 001 5V

FRANCE 790 (955)

N10591603 (RB3)

 

With your help, I'm now confident that I just need to get a new set of glow plugs and fit them, and clear the faults using VCDS.

 

Seems that the EuroCarParts Bosch plugs might not an exact replacement.

 

Any suggestions as to where to get them? If not looks like Skoda dealer @ £20.62

Mines a PD, yours is?

VCDS found one not working.

Ordered a new one on line.  An NGK one arrived.  Still working fine after 4 years.  (as are all the other originals, now 8 years).

They are just a little heating element.  Any reputable brand will do the job ok.

 

On direct injection Diesels, the engine will mostly start without preheat.  Their main function is emissions driven, to get everything up to correct temperature asap.  To this end the controller will provide post heat too.

Deep cold, sure.

Gsf car parts sell the BERU glow plugs for your car, they are £10.35 each (I'd advise replacing all 4) as long as you use the code GSF25 online at checkout / when reserving stock for collection to get the 25% discount.

Put your car registration in to select your car and the website should show the glow plugs for your car which I think are GSF part number 180VG0050. It is worth giving a GSF branch a call before ordering to check that the part number cross references to BERU GE100 but I'm pretty sure it does.

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/180vg0050

FYI, I'm about to fit a set of BERU glow plugs from GSF to my Superb at some point over Christmas (when the weather allows).

Just personal preference. As Owl has stated, they were both fitted from new, I just think Bosch is a more reputable brand than Beru (In my opinion).

 

Although I agree with you about Bosch generally, as far as glowplugs go I've tried lots of different brands over the years and I found Beru were the best, bar none. That was in the days of indirect injection diesels which needed decent glowplugs to have any hope of starting from cold and they always seemed to start noticeably better in cold weather with Beru plugs than other brands.

 

Having said that, direct injection diesels are far less fussy about glowplugs, and they are used much more for emissions reduction than actual starting. You may even find that Beru make the glowplugs for Bosch, as Bosch manufacture very little themselves.

Thanks for the replies. All useful. For ease of collection I've ordered a set of Bosch 0 250 402 005 from Euro car parts. £8.20 each + VAT. so £39.36 for a set of 4.

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Thanks Owl. Beru glow plugs at GSF were the correct ones @£41.40 delivered Inc discount. Big thank you for taking the time and trouble to help. Much appreciated

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No problem, I'm glad you've managed to source some plugs that fit.

Did you have trouble getting the correct Bosch plugs from eurocarparts? I only ask because they had the wrong plugs listed for my car (different plugs to your car) and I only noticed when I got them home last week. I wish all the online suppliers would publish the manufacturer part numbers in addition to their own part numbers. It would make life much easier for making sure you're getting the correct part rather than having to call them to check what the bosch, beru, etc number is.

Not fitted them yet, didnt have time last night. Hopefully can fit them later.

 

When I rang EuroCarParts, I didn't mention my car details at all - I simply gave them the Bosch OEM (0 250 401 001) and current part number (0 250 402 005) taken from the Bosch site in your previous post. Link

The guy checked them both and they cross referenced each other.

 

 

I guess if they are wrong now then it's my fault!

 

I know what you mean though, I have bought parts from them before and been given the wrong items- and usually only find out after you have stripped stuff down on the car!

Totally agree, it would be so much better if the actual OEM part number were listed and would probably save retailers (and customers) a lot of hassel having to deal with returns - even more so when ordered online.

OK - so today I decided to change the glow plugs.

 

started from No.1 cylinder...all ok. Got to No.4, put socket over glow plug - bit tight so put a bit of WD40 around it and left to soak 10 minutes.

 

Still tight but managed to get some movement, back and forth, gently until I got it to turn (sqeaking as it came out). Needed ratchet all the way.

 

When I looked at the glow plug, thread is stripped and the new glow plug wont go back in - doesnt even try to start to catch.

 

Would really appreciate some help on deciding what are my options are.

Is there anyone who could assist?

 

thanks in advance.

Here's a comparison of the old and new, with the new glow plug in the foreground. (hopefull the link will work).

 

It actually looks as though the thread has gone on the glow plug rather than the cylinder head (which doesn't seem right).

That's nasty, but it is difficult to see from the picture which thread has let go. What does the glow plug hole look like in the cylinder head?

If it is the glow plug that has left its thread in the cylinder head then I suspect that is better than stripping the cylinder head threads. Perhaps you can clean the cylinder head threads with a tap, but it may be best getting the car to a good garage / workshop to get the threads cleaned / re-tapped.

This thread from tdiclub may help give you some hints although it is for a different scenario, i.e. the scenario where the cylinder head threads have been stripped: https://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=221087

Out of interest did you warm up the engine prior to removing the plugs?

Thanks for the reply.

 

The engine was warm-ish when I removed the glow plugs - definately not cold but neither fully up to temperature either.

 

As you can imagine - I'm concerned about messing things up even further - getting metal into cylinder etc.

Would have to get the car collected and taken to a garage - but I don't actually know of one I would trust to do this job.

 

What I will do in the meantime is to remove the new ones (1,2 & 3) and apply some Copper Slip, and try to get a decent photo of the GP thread/hole in the cylinder head.

 

Will post again shortly.

I apologize to be the bearer of bad news, but what is shown in the photo is in fact stripped engine head thread tightly wound around the glow plug thread. Helicoil or head replacement now, no other recourse. 

 

I know it is too late now, but for other people and future jobs benefit, you might want to soak the glow plugs overnight, not for 10 minutes, or even go for 1-2 drives with penetrant fluid on the plugs, replenishing it after each drive. It is better to use more specialized penetrant fluid such as PlusGas, or even generic brand "Penetrant Fluid" which I used on my car for last GP job. IMHO WD-40 is too "universal", i.e. too thick specifically for this job. It also pays to use analogue torque gauge to undo the plugs, that way you can stay within the 35Nm torque limit when undoing them.

 

There is a thread on Mk1 Superb forum describing the GP job, tools incl various torque gauges and tips for the V6 TDI engines, in most part also applicable to other TDIs. HTH.

 

 

 

 

.

Edited 28 December, 201411 yr by dieselV6

Thanks for the reply.

Here are a couple more photos in case they help -

Glow plug close up - shows old and new thread

Cylinder head glow plug thread close up - as best as I can get it.

 

Could I have caused this by not having the engine fully warmed up ( the other 3 glow plugs swapped without any problem)?

 

If it's unlikely that this can be resolved easily what is the best option?

 

Recommendations on who I could take it to please? Ideally would prefer a specialist. I live just outside of Crewe in Cheshire.

One thing I find strange is that the engine head looks still threaded, and on the latest closeup photo the leftover part on GP looks like a thread insert. Which engine is it (engine code, or power/PD/CR)? If it was an insert, it would still be salvageable (new insert).

 

I did the job on my car on a cold engine, but warmed it up and retightened afterwards. Warm engine is better though, up to a point, and only so long that you have soaked GPs for a long time beforehand anyway. To answer your question, whether it is an insert or stripped head, the job took turn for the worse likely at the point you applied force to the glow plug and it would not go, it is really important to stay under 35Nm on the plug and apply force centrally, both to avoid risk of shearing the plug as well as to avoid stirpped threads.

Edited 28 December, 201411 yr by dieselV6

Thanks for the update.

 

I had already removed one of the glow plugs to check the part number (see earlier post), and was aware that the tightening torque was 10Nm - 15Nm.

 

Any recommendations as to who I could take the car to?

The 35Nm is the max torque for undoing the plugs, after that there's trouble as you have experienced, either the thread goes or the glow plug shears.

When it comes to putting them back in, on an old engine, 15Nm is actually not enough to thread the new ones in fully, I used 20Nm as recommended by NGK.

 

Don't know any workshops who can fix it, sorry, after a spate of botched workshop repairs I have resorted to DIYing my cars, precisely so that I can know for sure the jobs are done by the book.

Edited 28 December, 201411 yr by dieselV6

Engine is a PD - BMM.

 

How would I know if its an insert?

Perhaps I could remove one of the other GPs and take photos and compare?

 

Yeah the head photo does look like there is thread still present, I guess thats what gives me hope that it can be fixed without a replacement head.

I can't personally recommend anyone but I had a quick google for you and this guy in Stoke may be able to help you (and it looks like he can come to you which would be a bonus):

Alan - http://mobilehelicoilservices.weebly.com

At least one satisfied customer here (post by Captain Nick who had a spark plug thread issue):

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=669442&page=4

I didnt realise that the max undo torque was 35Nm but TBH I didn't apply a lot of effort and used a 3/8" drive.

What I did was to undo a little and tighten a little, kinda like you would when threading a hole.

 

I used to do as much work as possible on my cars too - for the same reasons but am out of practice now.

If I had more confidence in myself, I would have a go and remove the head, get it fixed and put it back together again - but this simple job has already gone bad!