Colleagues I hope that you advise me in the next  topic  I have Skoda Felicia 96 and for damage in the cylinder head . I changed Skoda engine  from 135 to 136 m, which rate compression ratio of the old is 8.8 The new 10 to 1 and installed my the old carburetor on the  new engine.  I use gasoline 92 suitable for engine, but I Want to adjust the ignition and A/F ratio  so give higher efficiency of the engine  I don't have the light gun either any instruments to adjust ignition timing and  carb I only have hearing and observing skills (old methods) thank you

Setting a new engine for best performance is a very complex task. It is half science half art. You mentioned that you have no testing devices yet you want to tune the engine by ear. That is an impossible task. You need to have at minimum a vacuum meter and a strobe lamp. However, don't forget that 136 engine head is designed to work with 136 engine camshaft, tappets, and pushrods. You can't achieve best performance with the wrong camshaft. The valves timing will never be perfect and that is crucial for engine performance. There are also other factors to take into account, but I will stop here.

 

One question though: did you start the engine? How does it work?

Edited 8 January, 201511 yr by RicardoM

may be there is misunderstand the hole engine  was replaced from 135 to 136 M because the old engine head was damaged so i replaced the hole engine but I fixed the old carburetor on it instead of the injection parts and the engine is running but i want to tune the engine and achieve the best performance on the current condition so i ask for advice with no aiding tools just old tools the installed carb is pierburge 2e3 thanks 

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Edited 10 January, 201511 yr by john999boy
Non English text removed

good morning you to 

thanks for your answer as you said the engine needs to be tuned in the A/F ration and the ignition timing and i tried to adjust them , the fuel consumption is fair but there was a problem that the speed did not exceed 130 km/hr and the rpm then constant at 3.5 so i tried to advance the ignition and changed the main jets to larger ones but i want to know the write adjustment to have more efficiency

thanks again for your replay

 

I wrote it in English so the other members understand what we say   

Edited 10 January, 201511 yr by john999boy
Foreign text removed

Please ONLY write in English.

 

P.S Thanks for the translation ehabmobarak.

Hello again

Well some members in this forum recommended adjusting the inlet and outlet valves as tight as possible (0.2 mm for all 8 valves) to reduce the effect of the different camshaft between 135 and 136M engines. I guess it is almost impossible to adjust the ignition timing correctly even with a light probe in this case (136M with carb) that is why you can not reach high rpm in 5th gear but possible in other gears although roughness in the engine will happen. The best solution is turn the engine completely MPI  

How many Skoda Felicia cars are in the Middle East? Is there a forum dedicated to them?

 

Now about carburettor on a MPi engine. Although you can't get best performance without help from an ECU and the associated sensors, you can try 2 things:

• install slightly bigger jets for 1st and 2nd body of the carburettor
• retard ignition timing (rotate distributor anticlockwise) till the engine starts to knock under full acceleration then advance the timing (rotate distributor clockwise) by 5 degrees

These are raw adjustments that should get you at least 40 kW but with a bigger fuel consumption. By the way, how much is 1 liter of gasoline in Egypt and Jordan?

will thanks for all replays 

first I adjusted the inlet and outlet valves to 0.2mm  , second I can't turn the engine to MPI it will coast me a lot and I'll change the car wiring also. and in my town there is no one have the correct instrument to deal with.

will RicardoM  there are lot of Felicia in Egypt from 96 to 2001 models all over the country it is a good car and we have the spare parts for it new and used also we had forums for it such as Nilemotors.net and others  . 

I installed bigger jets to the Pierburg 2e3 carb the 1st stage is 100 and the 2nd is 125 from 92.5 and 120

also I adjusted the distributor .

there is no knocking and the engine runs good but not so good , the acceleration is good ,i feel it is rough sometimes

the fuel consumption in average speed 100-120 is 12 km/liter and in city crowed is about 9km/liter this before i increase the jets I'll measure it after soon

the fuel price in Egypt is for octane 80 it is 1.6 LE and for 92 it is 2.6 LE and for 95 it is 4.75 LE

thanks      

the fuel price in Egypt is  for 2.6 LE for 92 and 4.75 LE for 95.    

That is 0.3 Euro / liter for 92 and 0.56 Euro / liter for 95...   or 1.36 Euro / gallon for 92 and 2.55 Euro / gallon for 95

is that all there is no more suggestions ????

Can you show us a zoomed photo of one of the spark plugs? See photo below as an example. Try to show it in day light and in the same position.

 

PS

Sorry we didn't add more advice because we are speechless about the gasoline price

Edited 12 January, 201511 yr by RicardoM

thanks a lot I bought a vacuum pressure gauge and tested the engine and carb. I attached photos of the gauge reading and the rpm and temp during the tuning. I adjusted the ignition timing and A/F ratio it seems good and according to what I read this condition is normal . I need your opinion about that. the spark gives indication of rich mixture so I cleaned them and installed them again waiting for your replay  

hello again here a video of the gauge and motor sound I hope you see it and replay me

[URL=http://filerio.in/e14ss36xge7f]vacuum gauge skoda.mp4 - 10.5 MB[/url ]

thanks 

Reading a spark plug is more than looking at the colour of deposits. It can reveal if the ignition timing is good, the mechanical health of the engine, etc. So take a short drive (15-20 km) on highway, take out the spark plugs and show us how they look. Clear, well focused photos.

 

I watched your video and I suspect your engine has low compression. It is valves related. Measure the compression please.

Edited 13 January, 201511 yr by RicardoM

What is the history of the engine? Where did you get it from? How many km? When was the timing chain last changed?

will I bought the engine from a used spar parts dealer so I don't know anything about it . I changed the timing chain 8/11/2014 

I attached a photos of the four plugs I hope they indicate something . I also readjusted the valve clearance to 0.2 for both inlet and exhaust I know it should be 0.25 for inlet and 0.2 for exhaust but I'm trying but the situation is the same do you have any idea,  also the jets are 100 for primary and 125 for secondary jets 

Sadly all photos are out of focus. It helps putting a white background just behind the object you zoom into. But anyways, from what I am seeing they look very well, the ignition timing is perfect. One thing though, MPi engines are using 3-electrode spark plugs, but I presume you are not using the ignition transformer from MPi but the electronic ignition and distributor from 135 engine. So that's OK.

 

The only thing unknown yet is the compression on each cylinder. Normally when you buy an engine, that is the first thing to check.

Thanks for replay and I,m sorry for the images but the camera of the tab is poor so that wat was available

I can't get the pressure readings of the engine compression right now I'll buy a gauge with proper tools to do that but what is the range of the comlpression pressure should be is that right what I did with the haves clearance or I return to the recommended

Thanks

Return valves clearance to MPi recommended values (0.25 for the intake, 0.20 for the exhaust)

 

A new engine has 15 bar compression.

It is still Ok to have 10 bar compression for an older engine.

Below 9 bar the engine needs a rebuild.

Note: maximum allowable compression difference between cylinders is 1 bar!

I returned the valve clearance to the recommended settings (0.25 for the intake, 0.20 for the exhaust)  and I tried to make a pressure gauge connections to measure the compression of the engine but there is much air leak in it I'll try to find one and do the compression test.

another thing came to me what about the fuel additives to clean the valves and the carb. I thought maybe if I try it will clean the valves base from carbons and observe the result. also I suspect an air leakage somewhere but very very small I tried to discover it with the carb. cleaner but nothing found after I return to the normal valve settings the same result obtained from the vacuum gauge really I don't want to remove the head and look for the valves seats every one said to me as it is running keep it that way and don't do anything but I'm not comfortable with the sound of the engine but I don't have the necessary tools to do the tests and find the defected parts and no one helps me doing this and the mechanics are poor knowledge of this and hard to find one except in the preparing centers and they don't accept old model cars like mine .

so thanks a lot and I'll inform you with the updates , sorry for talking too much but I'm glad to find any one concerned in the subject and take care of his car.

I can help you with all the information you need to repair your engine in case the compression is bad.

 

The cheapest compression gauge has a conical rubber piece at the end. Inside there is a one-way valve similar to that used on tires. See photo.

 

You mentioned the loud clicking sound you don't like. There could be many things going wrong inside an engine with an unknown history such as: bad lubrication, valves not sealing, bent valves, bad lifters, bent lifter rods, bad camshaft. Each one generates a specific metallic noise. Besides compression test, I would check for metal shavings inside oil pan and I would measure the oil pressure.

I'm very grateful to you and your encouraging to me I'll find a way to make one or buy from the tools suppliers and let you know the result as soon as I could thanks

I think the engine is not developing enough power at high rpm because of distributor. The distributor for 135 type engine is good for 135 type camshaft (240/230). 135M type engines have another type of camshaft (248/248) so you need to modify the centrifugal advance mechanism accordingly (shorter, stiffer springs). Not an easy job without a proper strobe gun. I mean it's easy to put other springs, but how are you going to test the new advance curve?

 

Of course if on top of that the engine compression is not good... you can't get a maximum speed of 170+ km/h.

Edited 23 February, 201511 yr by RicardoM

Thanks for replay at the mean time I adjusted the A/F mixture and jetted the carb to get the best economical fuel consumption that I can get and I adjusted the distributor advance with the old methods ofcourse and the engine sounds good and the acceleration response is fair I assume I couldnot make the compression test untill now we have a bad weather and I can't find the tools

So i maybe satisfied with the results till I find the chance

Thanks for your interest and sorry for beeing late and doing nothing