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Refilling oil... because she asked.

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The dipstick may not be much cop, but worse is the access to fill the oil. On the Mk2 (and IIRC the Mk1) it was sat nice and open on the top of the engine cover, easy to pour directly into. Now on the Mk3 it's right over the back and somewhat obstructed/surrounded - trying to carefully pour about half a litre from a four or five litre bottle into that hole is really rather difficult without a funnel because of the whole geometry of the layout - you can't get the neck of the bottle close enough to the filler hole to pour accurately.

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  • No it's not normal to drive 13000km without checking your oil

  • The senors only tell you when it's too low so you could be driving around with wrong tyre pressures and low oil for a long time before it hits the sensor alert stage.   As for '...top up if needed.'

  • It's not that I'm principally against checking fluids, but I don't see why the sensor trigger level is (assumed to be) below critical and/or harmful levels.   If they can detect the oil level and th

The dipstick may not be much cop, but worse is the access to fill the oil. On the Mk2 (and IIRC the Mk1) it was sat nice and open on the top of the engine cover, easy to pour directly into. Now on the Mk3 it's right over the back and somewhat obstructed/surrounded - trying to carefully pour about half a litre from a four or five litre bottle into that hole is really rather difficult without a funnel because of the whole geometry of the layout - you can't get the neck of the bottle close enough to the filler hole to pour accurately.

 

Your comment made me smile because I have just bought a funnel for exactly the same thing... :)

Your comment made me smile because I have just bought a funnel for exactly the same thing... :)

 

 

The dipstick may not be much cop, but worse is the access to fill the oil. On the Mk2 (and IIRC the Mk1) it was sat nice and open on the top of the engine cover, easy to pour directly into. Now on the Mk3 it's right over the back and somewhat obstructed/surrounded - trying to carefully pour about half a litre from a four or five litre bottle into that hole is really rather difficult without a funnel because of the whole geometry of the layout - you can't get the neck of the bottle close enough to the filler hole to pour accurately.

As I was reading through all the posts I was thinking about adding comments similar to yours, I think you hit on a real problem the oil filler,  the dipstick does what it says on the label and I do not have a problem with it. The other Fluid fill up is the windscreen washer which is behind the stick to hold the bonnet up.

  • Author

As I was reading through all the posts I was thinking about adding comments similar to yours, I think you hit on a real problem the oil filler,  the dipstick does what it says on the label and I do not have a problem with it. The other Fluid fill up is the windscreen washer which is behind the stick to hold the bonnet up.

 

Behind, behind... Even when using large 5 liter jerrycans to refill it, I don't have any issues with that location, neither do I have problems actually refilling the oil (though I do use a paper funnel when the bottle is still full). 

I've not had any trouble filling the oil but I find the windscreen washer is a little awkward without a funnel. Just seems like poor design to put the bonnet stay right in front of a filler neck

I saw them and wasn't a fan as I presumed drilling but watching the install video and seeing they are just bolt on and easily removed I might invest in some. I was a little surprised that the car didn't have then as standard. Not had a car with a strut for years

  • Author

I had to check my tire pressures too, today. Same thing as last time (at roughly 5k on the clock) - a general 'check pressure' indicator light (if it can see all four tires, why can't it just tell me which tire needs checking??) without any of them being seriously out of whack. Re-set them all on 2.6 bars which is just a guesstimate because I couldn't find the correct pressures on my phone just then (my google-fu failed me). Reset the indicator too, of course.

 

Took the time to re-check the oil again and I actually got a clear reading this time! Wondrous! It showed about 30% of the indication area 'black' - as in - slightly low-ish. (manual says it has 3 areas: high, medium and low). I threw in the remainder of the bottle I purchased earlier just for good measure and we'll see when she starting nagging again.

Just so you know - the tyre pressures should be listed on the petrol/diesel tank filler flap. Should even have an ice scraper! (Unless you being in the Netherlands means you get a different vehicle spec...)

  • Author

Just so you know - the tyre pressures should be listed on the petrol/diesel tank filler flap. Should even have an ice scraper! (Unless you being in the Netherlands means you get a different vehicle spec...)

 

Although I have to regularly refill my tank (I do about 750 miles a week) I have never had to touch the scraper, since I have a diesel-powered block heater installed ;).

 

Also, the manufacturer/installer of said heater glued a sticker over the flap inside to warn me to always switch the heater off when refueling, so maybe it's hidden beneath that, I'll check!

Edited by Diango

I saw them and wasn't a fan as I presumed drilling but watching the install video and seeing they are just bolt on and easily removed I might invest in some. I was a little surprised that the car didn't have then as standard. Not had a car with a strut for years

I ordered a set a couple of weeks ago when superskoda had a sale. I've grown accustomed to them in our current car and thought they'd be especially useful on the Octavia, since it has an unusually small windscreen washer reservoir.

 

(So now I have a set of bonnet dampers, but no car yet.  :D )

Edited by kallekilponen

Fitted mine a week ago, and they are an excellent upgrade. Shame they don't give you any washers for the mounting studs as the inner wing looks a mess when you remove the original bolt.

 

I've bought some replacement studs off of ebay so now need to get some suitable washers.

I've got a selection of stainless steel washers so I'm sure I will find something to fit

All of these sensors could fail and you would never know (I don't mean at once though) so I don't see any reason not to check every few weeks manually. It only takes a few minutes to walk around your car and check it

But you have to put your faith in lots of sensors, have you physically checked your brake pads, or do you rely on the wear sensors???

But you have to put your faith in lots of sensors, have you physically checked your brake pads, or do you rely on the wear sensors???

I check them properly at least twice a year when I swap the winter wheels over and as I only do 7k a year this is probably ebough. They get a quick glance every time I was the car when I'm doing the wheels... I don't rely on brake sensors at all as most cars only have them on two wheels

Edited by V6Jules

But you have to put your faith in lots of sensors, have you physically checked your brake pads, or do you rely on the wear sensors???

 

I quite sure 99% of cars on the road only have their brake pads checked when the car goes in to a garage or for a regular service.

I'm sure the same is true, to a lesser extent, for other items like washer fuild, oil level, tyre pressures etc.

 

As mentioned by Diango, many of this technology provides pre-warning systems so you can take action before any is really necessary.

e.g. The "low oil level" warning triggers when the level is 25% above the MIN (perfectly safe to drive).

       There's still the oil pressure monitor which tells you there is a serious problem.

 

So most people don't put any faith in the technology because they didn't check it themselves before.

They would count it as a big plus because it helps protect themselves or their car.

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Another 2 months, another 10.000 kilometers and yesterday was that moment again, where she just had to be lubed up again. 

 

Luckily I was within reach of a petrol station where they had her favorite - 5w30 ;).

 

This should keep her happy until the first service in about 8.000 kilometers, I reckon it'll be around the end of may.

Edited by Diango

I'll re-check the oil in broad daylight today and find a bottle of 5w30 to top up if needed.

It's not just 5w-30.  It needs to be VW507.00 compliant.  You have a DPF fitted & it needs to be low SAPs.

 

Your owners manual is quite specific that the oil should be checked regularly (I think they say every fuel fill???) - at least until you get a feel for how much of a guzzler it is.  It's unfortunate that a biproduct of modern fuel efficient engine design is a tendency to use oil.

  • Author

Well I will let the dealer worry about that in a few thousand kilometers, they can change out the oil for something they say needs to be in there and then they can tell me where to buy it. 

I was given ample explanation on the car when I picked it up but no information at all on the type and brand of oil to use, the manual just states 5w30 I believe. 

 

 

The first oil fill-up (after which I opened this topic) was done with a 0w30 oil (because the gas station I stopped at didn't have anything closer to what was needed) but I do remember the bottle stating it was 507.00 compliant. 

 

The second fill-up a few days ago was done with 5w30 like that manual states, but I don't remember if the bottle did or did not mention this 507.00 code. I could check when I'm in the neighbourhood of said station again, I cannot seem to find an online reference of what they sell in-shop there, but I know there were 2 variants of which I chose the more expensive (ultra) option.

 

 

- edit -

 

I re-checked the latest manual I can find, and the manual does NOT state the 0w30 or 5w30 variant, it ONLY mentions that the oil used must be 507.00 compliant, which I know my first fill-up was, because I checked.

I will re-check the second bottle used to verify that this was also the correct oil and after the oil change at 30k I will stock up on one or two bottles of the exact right type advised by the garage.

Edited by Diango

  • Author

Ok I checked on my way home. Both oils used (first fill-up: 0w30, second fll-up: 5w30) were 507.00 spec, with VW and Skoda especially mentioned on the bottle.

Both were also pretty expensive indeed, up to 30 euro/bottle (1L) and mentioned that they 'exceeded' manufacturer specifications.

 

As the manual does not mention a xWx0 (just the 507.00 spec) value I reckon both fill-ups were within 'compliance' of VW guidelines. 

Well I will let the dealer worry about that in a few thousand kilometers, they can change out the oil for something they say needs to be in there and then they can tell me where to buy it. 

I was given ample explanation on the car when I picked it up but no information at all on the type and brand of oil to use, the manual just states 5w30 I believe.

 

You would be incorrect on that statement.

 

 

The first oil fill-up (after which I opened this topic) was done with a 0w30 oil (because the gas station I stopped at didn't have anything closer to what was needed) but I do remember the bottle stating it was 507.00 compliant. 

You would be incorrect on that statement.  There are no 0w-30 507.00 compliant oils that I'm aware of.  0w-30 doesn't meet the 507.00 specification.

 

The second fill-up a few days ago was done with 5w30 like that manual states, but I don't remember if the bottle did or did not mention this 507.00 code. I could check when I'm in the neighbourhood of said station again, I cannot seem to find an online reference of what they sell in-shop there, but I know there were 2 variants of which I chose the more expensive (ultra) option.

 

 

- edit -

 

I re-checked the latest manual I can find, and the manual does NOT state the 0w30 or 5w30 variant, it ONLY mentions that the oil used must be 507.00 compliant, which I know my first fill-up was, because I checked.

I will re-check the second bottle used to verify that this was also the correct oil and after the oil change at 30k I will stock up on one or two bottles of the exact right type advised by the garage.

  • Author

Well mister Bold&Blue, maybe it takes a while before technology reaches as far as where you live, but I checked! The 507.00 spec was on the bottle both times. 

 

Also, I re-read the most recent manual I could find (May 2014) and that mentions the 507.00 spec alright, but I couldn't find anything about the xWx0 value:

 

http://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Octavia_5E/05-2014/Manual/Octavia/A7_Octavia_OwnersManual.pdf

 

starting page 192, "engine oil".

Well mister Bold&Blue, maybe it takes a while before technology reaches as far as where you live, but I checked! The 507.00 spec was on the bottle both times. 

 

Also, I re-read the most recent manual I could find (May 2014) and that mentions the 507.00 spec alright, but I couldn't find anything about the xWx0 value:

 

http://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Octavia_5E/05-2014/Manual/Octavia/A7_Octavia_OwnersManual.pdf

 

starting page 192, "engine oil".

I am surprised that a 0w30 oil is deemed 507.00 compliant; I can't find anything on the net which lists any oil of that grade as meeting the standard. Mindful that whilst some sites on the internet are run by respected bodies who know what they are talking about, others may just be repeating "things they've heard", I decided to avoid any such accusations and just rely on the official sources, viz VW's own site. I did find this link, which on page 2 states "LongLife oils meeting 504 00/507 00 are now SAE 5W-30 viscosity."

Now I'll grant that the linked document is a few years old and there may be some 0w30 oils that meet 507.00, but I can't find any listed. I don't suppose that you remember what it was?

  • Author

I know the second kind was by "Havoline", sold by a Texaco station in my area. The first one was sold by an ESSO or Shell station, but I don't remember the brand. I'm in the process of finding back the place of purchase via my fuel card (which I used for said purchase) to find the brand and type used.

 

- edit -

 

The Havoline oil is deemed sufficient for this car, see also:

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/51141-what-oils-meets-specs-vw-504-00-507-00/

 

The 'Ultra' variety of Havoline 5w30 is 507.00 compliant.

 

 

Concerning the first fill-up which I'm pretty sure was done with oil from an Esso or Shell station, google shows me this result, amongst others:

 

https://www.shell.com/global/products-services/on-the-road/oils-lubricants/cars/find-right-car-oils/helix-fully-synthetic/ultra-pro-av-l-0w30.html

 

this oil is certainly available for sale.

Edited by Diango

After reading this topic I checked mine today, for only the second time since new, and it was at halfway mark on the dipstick. Have done 7.5k miles so reckon that is pretty good for a new engine knowing that they do drink a bit more when new.

Didn't see a problem with the dipstick though, read it fine, but would say very flimsy trying to get it back in. Luckily I had half a litre left from my previous car of the correct grade so job done, hopefully for another few thousand miles at least.

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