For me, this happens when it's summer and when the temperatures are above 20 degrees, when it's winter I have no problem when I drive a little longer and then when the car is 20 to 30 minutes, he does it like this, after that it starts normally Skoda Karoq 2020 1.6 tdi 115 hp

Hi all

 

I'm having the same problem, 2008 fabia 1.9tdi, hard to start when warm.

 

Nothing showing on my obd reader

Fuel filter changed

Coolant temp changed

Crankshaft sensor changed

Fuel pump / feeder in the tank changed

Fuel pump relay changed

Egr removed and all cleaned.

 

What's the chances , try a new battery or starter????????

 

Just don't get this at all.

Great car, love 1.9tdi 

 

I would only suspect a battery if it was struggling to turn over. This is probably more associated with intake temperature being incorrectly read. Not sure if that engine has a separate inlet manifold temp sensor, so more likely to be the MAP (Mass Air Pressure) sensor ( I don't think the diesel uses a MAF - Mass Air Flow).

On 22/11/2024 at 00:10, Walter123 said:

I'm having the same problem, 2008 fabia 1.9tdi, hard to start when warm.

 

 

On my Octavia Mk1 with a 1.9 litre tdi engine, this was a common problem. The reason was that, when warm. a certain cranking speed had to be acheived before the next step in the starting process could procede.

When cold, any crank speed is allowed.

 

The major cause was an old battery that could not produce enough current to acheive minimum cranking speed. Less commom reasons were corrosion of the ends of the starter motor cable or starter motor problems.

 

Ask someone to use jump leads from their battery next time you have the problem. Or swap out the battery.

On 23/11/2024 at 11:52, pikpilot said:

 

On my Octavia Mk1 with a 1.9 litre tdi engine, this was a common problem. The reason was that, when warm. a certain cranking speed had to be acheived before the next step in the starting process could procede.

When cold, any crank speed is allowed.

 

The major cause was an old battery that could not produce enough current to acheive minimum cranking speed. Less commom reasons were corrosion of the ends of the starter motor cable or starter motor problems.

 

Ask someone to use jump leads from their battery next time you have the problem. Or swap out the battery.

Sorry for the late feedback. 

 

I'll give it a try, 

I'm thinking it could be the tandum put as this is a common fault with these engines,  saying g that . There's 205k on the car, love these engines. 

Just now, Walter123 said:

Sorry for the late feedback. 

 

I'll give it a try, 

I'm thinking it could be the tandum put as this is a common fault with these engines,  saying g that . There's 205k on the car, love these engines. 

Tandum pump#

I had a warm start issue on my BKD, mine was the cam position sensor.

 

Thankfully it occurred when I was about to do the cambelt so it was easier to fix with the belt and idler off!

54 minutes ago, chrisund123 said:

I had a warm start issue on my BKD, mine was the cam position sensor.

 

Thankfully it occurred when I was about to do the cambelt so it was easier to fix with the belt and idler off!

Already changed it mate. 

 

Still no good. 

Belt due at 220k

 

I think that Pikpilot has hit the nail on the head.

 

There is another way you can diagnose it, wait for the weather to be cold enough for it to have the cranking problems every start, that weather is probably already with us.

 

Take the battery off the car, take inside in the warm and charge overnight, or just charge enough for the charging current to drop then disconnect and leave it in the warm.

 

Fit the warm charged battery to the car the next morning and start it, if it starts instantly then you know the problem is the daft cold start algorithm.

 

Resolving the issue requires you to further test the battery, the connections and the starter wiring, do you buy a new battery or replace the starter?

 

3rd option is to have someone reflash the ECU to remove the nonsense lines of code, one of the great things about the PD engines is their ability to start in 1/4 turn even when the battery can barely turn the engine over,.

 

I need to rethink the above, the problem is when warm, maybe the jump leads are the best way.

Edited 6 December, 20241 yr by J.R.

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

I think that Pikpilot has hit the nail on the head.

 

There is another way you can diagnose it, wait for the weather to be cold enough for it to have the cranking problems every start, that weather is probably already with us.

 

Take the battery off the car, take inside in the warm and charge overnight, or just charge enough for the charging current to drop then disconnect and leave it in the warm.

 

Fit the warm charged battery to the car the next morning and start it, if it starts instantly then you know the problem is the daft cold start algorithm.

 

Resolving the issue requires you to further test the battery, the connections and the starter wiring, do you buy a new battery or replace the starter?

 

3rd option is to have someone reflash the ECU to remove the nonsense lines of code, one of the great things about the PD engines is their ability to start in 1/4 turn even when the battery can barely turn the engine over,.

 

I need to rethink the above, the problem is when warm, maybe the jump leads are the best way.

Always starts from cold.

 

It's o ly hard to start what the engine is warm, I'm.fittung a tandum pump tomorrow,  I'll keep ya posted.. 

11 hours ago, Walter123 said:

Always starts from cold.

 

It's only hard to start what the engine is warm

 

That is exactly the scenario I described above for a failing battery. When the engine is warm it is a common problen for your engine series due to not acheiving a high crank revs.

Why are you changing the tandem pump?

On 07/12/2024 at 11:27, pikpilot said:

 

That is exactly the scenario I described above for a failing battery. When the engine is warm it is a common problen for your engine series due to not acheiving a high crank revs.

Why are you changing the tandem pump?

I had problems in the past with a vw and it was the same issue,  the tandum sorted it. 

My battery has been tested and is 110%

8 minutes ago, Walter123 said:

I had problems in the past with a vw and it was the same issue,  the tandum sorted it. 

My battery has been tested and is 110%

I'll list all that I've changed.

 

Coolant temp 

Crankshaft sensor 

Fuel sender

Fuel relay

Tandum pump

Air flo meter

Egr & throttle body stripped and cleaned

 

I changed the tandum pump due to cutting out, fuel related, I'd tried everything else. 

 

Still no further on. Wiring??? 

Wish it would just give up so I can put my finger on the problem

 

Check the cranking RPM when warm, I bet it is under the threshold for the nonsense software.

 

It's a stupidly high threshold in that the engine will appear to be cranking quite healthily, well any minimum RPM threshold for starting is stupid!!!

43 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Check the cranking RPM when warm, I bet it is under the threshold for the nonsense software.

 

It's a stupidly high threshold in that the engine will appear to be cranking quite healthily, well any minimum RPM threshold for starting is stupid!!!

Thank you..

Heads melted lol