I've been trying to source, with no joy yet,  DC cabling as replacement for my laptop's charger, cause the original cable is exhibiting intermitent contact. The transformer itself, a 12 year old Lite On is operating perfectly.

 

I need the piece of cable that connects the output of the Transformer to the laptop itself (I've already had to replace the cloverleaf cable on the input side). Cable must be rated to 120Watts (20volts,  6 amps) with a molded 7.5mm jack plug on the laptop end and just bare wires on the transformer end (So it can be soldered into the transformer output terminals). Also the cable has two suppression devices, of unknown value, molded into the cable run, one at the laptop end, one at the transformer end.

 

Anybody know of a web source where I can get this ?

 

Also, the Lite On transformer case is a sealed  molded plastic, so that will need cracking/sawing open to do the repair. Is this advisable ? Any advice/tricks and tips how to do it, apart from the obvious i.e. stick it in vice/Black & Decker workmate and hacksaw it open and then re-seal with Cyanacrylate ?

 

Cheers

 

 

Nick

Edited 20 March, 201511 yr by Clunkclick

From multiple experiences, if the cable is broken the transformer isnt far away from failing.

 

Just buy a new transformer.

I'd suggest

1) cutting cable a few inches from charger  and seeing if all is well at that point. ( The inner on MOST ,BUT REFER TO CHARGER unit for plug layout is + and screen is -ve)

2) if so - (and you wil find that cable is sort of screened type ), then join suitable cable to the end coming from charger( I use heatshrink on each leg, and at least two bits over the two legs.

3) Cable- I've always found that any cable I've seen has an inner that is very fine ,too fine to pass anything like 6A, and the plug would make any cable of this size difficult to fit.

4) i've done a few of these- my own laptop has a habit of Swimbo moving a chair on top of cable , and I've a GD who thinks cables ( as teenagers do ) are steel cables.

5) Plugs- take the original into the likes of Maplin ,but you need to be handy with a soldering iron to fit any cable to theirs. 

6) the suppression devices are ferrite blocks moulded onto the cable. Most can be opened by releasing any clips on the side.

 

As before, and said by GM, if you're not handy with a soldering iron, and experienced in joining cable, then perhaps it might be a better idea to look for a replacement charger unit.

Main reason for the suggestion is the likelihood of the broken cables touching each other as you wiggle it to get it working.

At best the transfer goes. At worst the short damages the laptop.

May be worth having a look on ebay for a new charger rather than messing about cutting open the transformer & splicing in cables.

I'd suggest

1) cutting cable a few inches from charger  and seeing if all is well at that point. ( The inner on MOST ,BUT REFER TO CHARGER unit for plug layout is + and screen is -ve)

2) if so - (and you wil find that cable is sort of screened type ), then join suitable cable to the end coming from charger( I use heatshrink on each leg, and at least two bits over the two legs.

3) Cable- I've always found that any cable I've seen has an inner that is very fine ,too fine to pass anything like 6A, and the plug would make any cable of this size difficult to fit.

4) i've done a few of these- my own laptop has a habit of Swimbo moving a chair on top of cable , and I've a GD who thinks cables ( as teenagers do ) are steel cables.

5) Plugs- take the original into the likes of Maplin ,but you need to be handy with a soldering iron to fit any cable to theirs. 

6) the suppression devices are ferrite blocks moulded onto the cable. Most can be opened by releasing any clips on the side.

 

As before, and said by GM, if you're not handy with a soldering iron, and experienced in joining cable, then perhaps it might be a better idea to look for a replacement charger unit.

 

 

If you cant solder, then terminal blocks and electrical tape will do the job. It wont look very neat, but it will get you going. I did this on a Sony unit with a stupid proprietary plug about 15 years ago, and the cable is still going strong (although the Sony unit is on its last legs).

ASDA do a Trust Universal 90W Laptop charger for £40. I've got something similar, a Hama one bought in Germany four years ago and still going strong. Used on four different laptops thusfar with no issues.

 

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Browse/ID72/33025474/c_1/1|category_root|Technology|33006169/c_2/2|33006169|Laptops+and+PCs|33007795/c_3/3|cat_33007795|Laptop+and+PC+accessories|33014063/c_4/4|cat_33014063|Laptop+power+cables%2C+chargers+and+batteries|33025474.htm

 

or Logik from PC World http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/pc-accessories/cables-and-power-accessories/laptop-power/logik-llpausl13-universal-laptop-power-adapter-with-usb-21334030-pdt.html

From multiple experiences, if the cable is broken the transformer isnt far away from failing.

 

Just buy a new transformer.

Difficult getting one with 120W (20 volts, 6 amps) output nowadays (The laptop is an absolute heater)  - probably premium price job.  I looked recently on t'interweb and couldn't find any (They seem to have all disappeared in the last three years since I last looked).

 

If the worst comes to the worst, I've got a virtually unused car adapter that can supply that output, that can be plugged into my recently built portable "Leisure battery" cigarette socket. It would be a good use of the latter.

Edited 21 March, 201511 yr by Clunkclick

I think what's happened is that there is a partial break in the cable at the laptop end, in between the 2nd suppression unit (Ferrite choke ?) and the cylindrical connector that fits into the back of the laptop.

 

A repair would probably involve cutting off the cable prior to the second choke. So the replacement piece of cable would need to include a replacement choke and a laptop connector. Its not difficult to do, as long as you are careful, its just difficult to source the components retail.

 

There are some light industrial units locally, who may be engaged in this sort of manufacturing, so I may well give them a call.

 

 

Postscript

 

Ah ! Maplin do clip-on Ferrite cores:-

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/ferrite-clip-on-hem3012-n89ab

 

And again, laptop connector found on e-bay:-

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-1-7mm-x-5-5mm-DC-Male-Power-Plug-Jack-Connector-Laptop-/281540143992?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item418d19ab78

 

That matches the internal and external diameter of the connector on mine, though length is 3mm short.

 

Amazing, found both with 5 minutes of looking this morning, after a fruitless search yesterday afternoon.

Nick

Edited 21 March, 201511 yr by Clunkclick

Do what I did when mine broke, soldered charger direct to motherboard and ditched the battery

May be worth having a look on ebay for a new charger rather than messing about cutting open the transformer & splicing in cables.

 

They can be very poor quality and not last long.

 

I had about 3 cheap EBay chargers then gave in and paid about 3x as much for a proper hp one. Still going.

 

Quite often if can be the little signalling wire in the centre of the connector that goes.