<snip>

Moral Rights,  are something you might need to discuss somewhere else,

<snip>

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moral_rights

 

How depressing that anyone should feel the need to google "Moral rights", what is the world coming to? :(

 

Troll on.  

You will never need to worry about Moral rights and modifications.

At my last factory service I was very upfront with the mods on my car. Basically I just asked them not to plug it in to the computer as it would wipe the tune... they said no problems.

I take it that in the UK that would be a Service at a Main Dealers and a Scheduled Service / following guidelines.

(not a Factory Service.)

Anyone can ask the them not to do a Diagnostic Check or Update the Software.

 

But if there is a Warranty Claim on the Engine / Drivetrain during the Manufacturers Warranty Period it is not a Dealership that foots the bill,

and the people that do will want the ECU checked, and the fact the Remap was done previously or is still on the ECU 

will Void the Warranty.

Probably as well not paying for Main Dealership Servicing if you have as Invalid Warranty anyway.

Just do Oil & Filter changes with a better product than they use.

I wont be going back to my local skoda dealer for servicing again... had the inspection service for peice of mind for the start of the track season, finally got around to inspecting my car myself yesterday in a hope of finding the vibration I had... ALL TEN front wheel bolts were not tightened up correctly. the rears were, fronts all needed tightening to reach the required 120nm.........

 

I feel they put my life at risk... I have put in an official complaint on their specific e-mail survey for the garage.

30,000km Service was done at the dealer who sold me the car.

 

I asked them to not do the diagnostic check, use the Penrite oil that I supplied (factory approved of course) and to skip the brake fluid change as I had done it myself when I changed the rotors and pads. I then went on to request to speak to the mechanic who was going to do the service and give him the how story on the car (turns out his father is in my car club also).  Total cost $281 instead of over $500.

 

As for warranty...this is my first new car and I am not used to waiting for warranty to run out (2 months left). So once it stopped using excessive oil then that is when the real modding began. From the start I was aware of the fact that I was voiding my warranty and was prepared to pay up if I had too. Also most the parts going on to the car are upgrades and have their own warranty for 12 months or more.

 

But the one thing that I need to point out is that if I had the money to mod the car then I had the money to fix it if something went wrong (only problem, mods would be delayed). So really once you start a project you need to be prepared for the good and the bad.

 

In end the only reason I have been able to mod as much as I have is because the car has remained solid and I have only fitted quality aftermarkets parts.

Edited 30 April, 201511 yr by mmmRacer

Really up to you to have checked before and after a track day. They may have been correct before going on track. Checking the torque of wheel nuts is not part of a service schedule and not going to get done except where the wheels are being removed. If they were off to get new brake pads on, then complain away. ? Have the wheels been painter or powder coated or grease used on the wheel bolts?

Sorry, that was meant for sharkrider, I missed the post above mine.

Really up to you to have checked before and after a track day. They may have been correct before going on track. Checking the torque of wheel nuts is not part of a service schedule and not going to get done except where the wheels are being removed. If they were off to get new brake pads on, then complain away. ? Have the wheels been painter or powder coated or grease used on the wheel bolts?

it was an inspection service , all the wheels were of to clean and inspect the brakes. (and change the front pads)

 

I have done MANY track days George, an never had my wheel bolts EVER come loose, I changed from my winters to summers, torqued them up correctly, and had no issues, they had the wheels off, and did NOT torque up the fronts correctly...

 

is it too much to ask for simple safety from a franshised dealer ?! seriously ? my responsibility to check? why dont I just do all the work myself?!

 

They should have put the wheels on properly and torqued up properly, its not my responsibility to check their work! I paid them £200 to go over my car and make sure it was all GOOD AND SAFE for the start of the track season, NOT to hand it back in a potentially dangerous condition.

Before a track day session & after i would do things myself like check the wheel nuts and tyre pressures,

i would not even leave it to a mate to do.

(got that T Shirt.)

After any car leaves a dealership or while still there i do check them, because very few have Qualified Mechanics working on servicing them,

or putting the wheels back on.

(now you have the T-Shirt as well.)

OK...Back on track guys...partly my fault. If you could would you go for an APR tune?

 

Got a APR stage 2 tune and very happy. 

I have a Stage 1 APR map on a CAVE.

 

We still do not know on Briskoda of anyone running a CTHE with Stage 1 or Stage 2.

 

 ?

Do you know of anyone.?

OK...Back on track guys...partly my fault. If you could would you go for an APR tune?

 

Got a APR stage 2 tune and very happy. 

After paying attention to  all the experiance on here so far, I think I will go APR when the time comes, they seem to have the least issues, and the best rep...

 

I have a Stage 1 APR map on a CAVE.

 

We still do not know on Briskoda of anyone running a CTHE with Stage 1 or Stage 2.

 

 ?

Do you know of anyone.?

hopefully we will see the CTHE map soon! especially if the guy in question does a before and after RR ..... my plans after next year (and the warrenty) have gone, are an airtec intercooler, Jetex downpipe/sports cat, and jetex exhaust, send the original turbo (should be about 70k by then, so good time for a refurb!) to a turbo specialist to have it hybridised... then go for a custom map to see what I can get !

 

Mat, was your APR stage 2 map a generic one?

After paying attention to  all the experiance on here so far, I think I will go APR when the time comes, they seem to have the least issues, and the best rep...

Mat, was your APR stage 2 map a generic one?

Yes my APR stage 2 tune was the off the shelf job. Once you have all the parts in place (CAI,intercooler and dump pipe) and already have APR stage 1 tune. It is simply a matter driving in and plugging into the OBD2 port to upload the new file. Then 15mins or so later you have stage 2. Job done.

Reasons for picking APR. There dealer is the closest tuner to my home. Once you have paid for stage 1, it is only the cost of the labour to go to stage 2. They also are on sale pretty much each quarter.

Old man here....personally with this litte engine i would leave it standard. Its never going to be a real fast car. At best it will be kind of quick.

Its just not worth the drama and risk for day 20hp and better throttle response.

Its not a lazy engine that is strangled to keep the power down its a tighly tuned unit and quite complex at that.

Given all the revisions by vag to make this engine reliable you can stake money on the later maps being super clean and well optimised. I wouldn't let some rag arse tuner in and start upping the boost and fuelling

Id go buy an ed30 gti and tune the ball off that if you want a potent and reliable hot hatch.

Do not bet your house on that.

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=234574.0

If everything in life was ad reliable as a Volkswagen why does anyone buy any other cars.

 

Seat will sell you a nice fast petrol engine car for less than Volkswagen, probably with more go for less dough.

Bargains as used and as long as you are buying a keeper you do not need to worry about depreciation.

Edited 1 May, 201511 yr by goneoffSKi

Old man here....personally with this litte engine i would leave it standard. Its never going to be a real fast car. At best it will be kind of quick.

Its just not worth the drama and risk for day 20hp and better throttle response.

Its not a lazy engine that is strangled to keep the power down its a tighly tuned unit and quite complex at that.

 

Erm... Quite far from a "20hp" thing. A good custom stage 2 with the all the extra peripherals gives 250 bhp / 340-360 Nm (that is on a bone stock turbo) and depending how aggressive the power delivery has been requested, you're into M135i territory easily. The supercharger+DSG+weight is the key here. I would definitely call a car that is capable of 80-120km/h in 2.8s seriously fast, bother checking which cars can do better than that or at least close? I bet you'll change your mind.

 

As I've said before, the combination of issues of some stock cars and the fact that most tuners gave up at some point or chose very safe (de-tuned) maps and stopped the development has given this car an unworthy reputation both in reliability and tuning potential. But, the reality lies behind the first 10-20 Google search or Briskoda results imho...

newbie69,

Are you sure that these people you speak with and meet running Stage 2 & Stage 2+ have Standard Base Engines with Standard Internals & Head?

Or what uprated Engine Components are they using.?

 

There are Fundamental Design & Component Failures which can be OK with 150, 160, 170 Even 180-220 PS.

But there are some engines as Built from the Engine Build Line just not up to running even standard power.

 

There are people that Tune Engines or Remap/ Add Software & add Hardware then never actually 

push there car like at Track Days, and then say the Engine is reliable.

If only used at Legal Public Highway speeds mostly with the odd hard acceleration then they might well be.

 

http://www.adamlewin.co.uk/vw-mk5-golf-tsi-engine-timing-chain-problem

http://revotechnik.com/support/technical/14tsi-twincharger-engine-issues

Edited 1 May, 201511 yr by goneoffSKi

Have people had there timing chain checked? There's a load of people on that link who have had problemS..

It has not been an issue with the CAVE / CTHE.

Do not bet your house on that.

http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=234574.0

If everything in life was ad reliable as a Volkswagen why does anyone buy any other cars.

 

Seat will sell you a nice fast petrol engine car for less than Volkswagen, probably with more go for less dough.

Bargains as used and as long as you are buying a keeper you do not need to worry about depreciation.

 

Yeah, there will always be issues with any engine but as far as I am aware the ed30 engine is very tuneable. Infact its the same unit as the older S3 that makes >270hp in standard trim. 

 

Personally I'm not a VW fanboy and certainly didn't buy the Fabia for reliability - More of having a need for a nippy everyday estate car that is a bit off the radar - et voila the vRS Combi.

 

Erm... Quite far from a "20hp" thing. A good custom stage 2 with the all the extra peripherals gives 250 bhp / 340-360 Nm (that is on a bone stock turbo) and depending how aggressive the power delivery has been requested, you're into M135i territory easily. The supercharger+DSG+weight is the key here. I would definitely call a car that is capable of 80-120km/h in 2.8s seriously fast, bother checking which cars can do better than that or at least close? I bet you'll change your mind.

 

As I've said before, the combination of issues of some stock cars and the fact that most tuners gave up at some point or chose very safe (de-tuned) maps and stopped the development has given this car an unworthy reputation both in reliability and tuning potential. But, the reality lies behind the first 10-20 Google search or Briskoda results imho...

 

There's a difference in making peak power on a dyno and making a drivable, potent and reliable car though :peek: 

 

My point centres around having caution in trying to nail the big numbers at the expense of sleeping soundly - far easier to buy a more tuneable car. That said it is a bit of a boring approach I take. I've dabbled in the tuning scene for years and years right back to the early ford cosworths' that had manually adjustable actuators and interchangeable diaphragm springs etc. One thing I have learned is the old tale of manufacturers building in a huge margin for tuners to exploit safely is just not true. Sure it's easy to turn the wick up and reset the rev limiter to higher up but it needs to be done and still have a safe car and not a temperamental one or it's end up in tears at bedtime.

 

I'm not intending to sound like a misery - just making a point thats all  :p

newbie69,

Are you sure that these people you speak with and meet running Stage 2 & Stage 2+ have Standard Base Engines with Standard Internals & Head?

Or what uprated Engine Components are they using.?

 

There are Fundamental Design & Component Failures which can be OK with 150, 160, 170 Even 180-220 PS.

But there are some engines as Built from the Engine Build Line just not up to running even standard power.

 

There are people that Tune Engines or Remap/ Add Software & add Hardware then never actually 

push there car like at Track Days, and then say the Engine is reliable.

If only used at Legal Public Highway speeds mostly with the odd hard acceleration then they might well be.

 

http://www.adamlewin.co.uk/vw-mk5-golf-tsi-engine-timing-chain-problem

http://revotechnik.com/support/technical/14tsi-twincharger-engine-issues

 

 

So, anything up to Stage 2 and running close to 250 bhp is doing so with just FMIC, cold air intake, full TBE, upgraded blow-off and waste-gate. So stock engine internals, yes. Some are using water/meth injection but these are mostly hybrids ~ 280-320 bhp which imho are risking more than stage 3 proper BTs. Especially those hybrids (most of them) are regular high-way battle cars and they're frequently uploading the videos of those runs on private groups so they are definitely pushing their cars. I have seen what these cars can do that's why I keep trying to let people here know what a good and powerful stage 2 vRS/Cupra/Polo is capable of doing, when tuned by the right people. The 1.4 TSI tuning scene is much much more active outside the UK.

 

When discussing this with my tuner he said he can vouch for a healthy stage 2 up to 250 with stock internals and turbo, but beyond that, say hybrid or bigger turbo he recommends uprated pistons, conrods, valve "springs" and maybe the kevlar DSG discs they have developed on the 580 bhp dragster Cupra. etc. to be able to safely push around 350.

 

 

Yeah, there will always be issues with any engine but as far as I am aware the ed30 engine is very tuneable. Infact its the same unit as the older S3 that makes >270hp in standard trim. 

 

Personally I'm not a VW fanboy and certainly didn't buy the Fabia for reliability - More of having a need for a nippy everyday estate car that is a bit off the radar - et voila the vRS Combi.

 

 

There's a difference in making peak power on a dyno and making a drivable, potent and reliable car though :peek:

 

My point centres around having caution in trying to nail the big numbers at the expense of sleeping soundly - far easier to buy a more tuneable car. That said it is a bit of a boring approach I take. I've dabbled in the tuning scene for years and years right back to the early ford cosworths' that had manually adjustable actuators and interchangeable diaphragm springs etc. One thing I have learned is the old tale of manufacturers building in a huge margin for tuners to exploit safely is just not true. Sure it's easy to turn the wick up and reset the rev limiter to higher up but it needs to be done and still have a safe car and not a temperamental one or it's end up in tears at bedtime.

 

I'm not intending to sound like a misery - just making a point thats all  :p

 

No worries, point taken and agreed to a large extent but was just commenting on the "potential" thing and the "how fast is fast" question. As I wrote to George above, the cars I speak about are all about proving the power in real conditions but for sure, tuning engines means also you should be prepared to take the responsibility in case things go kaboom and that stands I think for pretty much every tuned car out there. I agree that the ed30 Golf is a tuner's favorite toy all around the world but you know, things are moving on, some people are owning 1.4 tsi (for one reason or another) and they're eager to find out what these can transform to. When you happen to be close to a tuner that has devoted a lot of time on this engine with pretty remarkable results, you understand that there is a lot more to ask from this engine than is typically expected. A 250 bhp twincharger will be ahead of an ed30 with as much as 280-300bhp most of the time. Then, a 350 bhp Stage 3 bigger turbo twincharger, [which for me is the only reasonable and safe step after Stage 2 - wouldn't like to hybrid-ise mine and run critical boost levels after my stage 2] is really entering sacred lands... But I am with you in that the more you tune, the more drive-ability you lose one way or the other.

Edited 1 May, 201511 yr by newbie69

never seen anyone with the oem turbo and 250hp . and if so that must be a very special dyno . most of the stage 2 cars with fmic intake dp ... are pushing around 220>225hp max

Well, all of the TMG Stage 2 cars with TBE are pushing 240-250 bhp corrected power, and that's on various different dynos (unless you mean all are over-reading equally). I was also curious so I ran mine on one of them and got 184 bhp stock with CAI (reasonable no?) and 227bhp stage 1, same dyno, same conditions, same correction, not much to tamper with when you got solid before and after values...

Edited 3 May, 201511 yr by newbie69