If this isn't possible then he'd need to see a suspension expert and get individual settings for 1, 2 and maybe 3 slices solo plus double with a pillion too I guess....

He needs a race technician as a pillion to set up the bike every time he stops for cake.

Chris - could Mrs Wright go on a course to do this ?

Static sag with no rider, just the bike should be around 10% of available travel.

Rider sag should then take it to 25-30%. 25 beng more sporty, 30 for comfort.

You'll need to find the full travel by measuring with no load which is a matter of pulling the bike up on the side stand until you have a wheel of the ground, you'll obviously need a helper for this. Front is just a measurement of the exposed stantion. With the front check for stiction and if you're not getting full length of the travel and having to pull on the wheel to get the last bit then loosen the front wheel clamps and check again which usually cures it. All you need do then is ensure the front wheel is centred and tighten up again evenly.

Rear is a pain to measure the travel but look it up and you'll find the travel. From no load with the rear wheel off the ground measure between two fixed points i.e. Rear axle and a mark/tape on the tail. See this to determine the static and then the rider sag.

Rider sag you need your riding gear on and feet on the pegs, helper or wall to lean on required. Every adjustments pump the suspension up and down to settle and try and keep the same position between each setting.

Once you have the sag set then do rebound. You should have enough to control the spring so that there is no bounce if you push down on the suspension then release. When riding if it feels like the suspension is kicking back then back off on the rebound.

Compression is how quickly the suspension reacts to hits. Not sure if you high and low speed settings. High is for the small movements i.e. road imperfections whilst high is the reaction to larger hits like small potholes. If it feels harsh over imperfections then decrease the compression. If it slow to react and feels like it's not getting chance to recover before the next hit then increase compression.

Too much rebound can work against compression.

Thanks for the comprehensive  write up.  What you say agrees with the research I have done today but some are talking about % like you and some are talking about 30mm for road riding as opposed to percent.  Hopefully if it is a bit warmer tomorrow I can crack on with it.  I will also do it for the Tiger as it is a bit on the stiff side as well.

Just keep the grease on the right side of the pad

Ahaa i like that! Simples!

The spring supports the weight of bike and rider. Preloading the spring/setting the sag creates a base level for both the load and ensuring its equal, percentage wise, front and rear.

The rebound and compression controls how quickly it compresses into its shortened state then returns to its full length. That's why the sag is the most important bit to get right. With preload equal front and rear the bike is less likely to dive under braking or squat under acceleration which keeps the bike more level allowing the suspension to use its travel on the changing road surfaces instead wasting travel coping up with the bike pitching back and forth.

I know my bike needs the sag sorting out again because I've lost a lot of weight. Under braking it's diving a bit whilst the back end isn't compressing as much which keeps me pitched forward taking the front forks longer return. Add this to cornering and I'm having to brake earlier to allow the front end return otherwise I can't get back on the throttle until later as there is bugger all weight on the rear end.

Thanks for the comprehensive  write up.  What you say agrees with the research I have done today but some are talking about % like you and some are talking about 30mm for road riding as opposed to percent.  Hopefully if it is a bit warmer tomorrow I can crack on with it.  I will also do it for the Tiger as it is a bit on the stiff side as well.

Sports bike travel is around 100-120mm so 25-30mm of sag equates 25% for a sporty ride.

Front and rear suspension may different travel hence why it's better as a percentage otherwise if you work on 30mm front and rear it could work out to be 25% front and 18% rear so the bike won't use its travel equally causing handling problems.

Chris, this guide explains setting the sag quite well.

http://www.motorcyclenews.com/new-rider/choosing-kit/2006/november/feb23-05-how-to-set-suspension-sag/

When you adjust the preload on the rear it's much easier with no load on wheel I.e. have the wheel in air.

Edited 18 April, 201610 yr by CWARD

Not read that one so thanks for the link.  Of course I am not ruling out the thought that 10 year old shocks will be past their best.

Not read that one so thanks for the link.  Of course I am not ruling out the thought that 10 year old shocks will be past their best.

 

I thought they got soft and ****e when they'd had it though? 

 

Not hard and tough? haha

 

Might be wrong. I've ridden bikes with many miles on though n they always seem soft n bouncy imo. 

That is no way to talk about the local girls Oli!

That is no way to talk about the local girls Oli!

Ahaha. I know. I should behave shouldnt i!

You guys should be on the stage!  It leaves in half an hour!!

 

 

If you have a B*W you need a sense of humour ........

Looking well s**** Oli, very very nice.

+1 on that.  :clap:

Need to remove the seals and bearings on my swing arm before having it power coated.

Thought about doing my swing arm in black but that is a winter job. Sunny days are too far and few so need to make the most whilst I can.

OK I have now checked all the settings and the only one that was different to factory was the front pre-load as it was set to 4 instead of 5.  I have yet to ride it and have not bothered with measuring the sag yet either.  So once I have ridden it I can tell if it has made much difference but I doubt that one click on the pre-load will be noticeable.

 

I have seen a couple of videos where they show you tipping the bike over on the side stand to measure the suspension travel.  I can tell you albeit it that the Daytona is much smaller than the TEX it ain't light!  Holding that while Jane does the measuring is going to be fun. :no:

Keep your foot against the side stand, legs shoulder width apart and lean the bike against you with bars turned to the left and you ant have any problems. Position yourself to the rear to lift the front wheel and visa versa for the rear.

This is where an Alba stand comes into its own.

Yeah I did that and it worked BUT like I said it is a tad heavy and holding it while Jane faffs about may be the problem.  Only time will tell.  What is an Alba stand?  Just off to google it.  Is this the Abba stand that Oli is on about?

 

EDIT:  Yup Abba stand is the one by the look of it.  I have a Triumph paddock stand that fits through the single sided swinging arm but that is no good for this job as all it does is keep the back wheel off the ground.  OK for measuring the sag at the rear I guess but not the front.

Edited 19 April, 201610 yr by Chriswright03

Get an Abba mate.

Mine arrived today and its bloody fantastic.

Don't start with them jokes again!

I can see it now Chris, you screaming instruction at the wife while puffing and very red faced.

Divorce has taken less !!!!

I don't believe in divorce Mad!

Lol had many screams in lesser situations, never mind the "just measure the sag woman before I drop it" situation. She might think you're referring to something else...

Well today she has had me helping her in the garden.  We have a large garden and I have a large distaste for gardening but today we started a project to build some raised beds and cover a lot of it with weed membrane and bark.  So as I have to do all the donkey work and this should make my life easier I don't mind being knackered tonight!

 

So now I have done my bit I think a bit of help with the bike is the least I can expext.

Right... I have a dilemma and electrics are not my thing at all!

My VFR VTEC- rear light doesn't appear to be working. There are only two bulbs in the cluster, one is usually dim which is normally on with the headlight too at all times. (Cannot be turned off)

When the brake is applied both bulbs light up brightly. The brake lights are working but the rear light doesn't!

If this makes sense, can somebody shed any light on what might be the issue?

Thanks

Right... I have a dilemma and electrics are not my thing at all!

My VFR VTEC- rear light doesn't appear to be working. There are only two bulbs in the cluster, one is usually dim which is normally on with the headlight too at all times. (Cannot be turned off)

When the brake is applied both bulbs light up brightly. The brake lights are working but the rear light doesn't!

If this makes sense, can somebody shed any light on what might be the issue?

Thanks

 

Theres 2 dual filament bulb in there and they're known to blow. 

 

Maybe you've been running on one bulb for a while and the second has now gone too. Whip em out and change them mate. 

 

They should both come on with the sidelights, and both work with the brake lights too.