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I've been told by admin i must rephrase my point so here goes... 

 

I purchased a newmans cam and lifters with what I was told was a years warranty after investigating my over heating problem I removed the head and was shocked to see the cam like this

 

cam%202_zpsyrw2zazj.jpg

 

item was purchased last year and in the above condition 3 days before warranty expired, upon contacting the company they asked for photos which I sent within the hour after waiting 5 days with no contact I called them again the man that answered had no explanation for the problem then he handed the phone to a so called mechanic who told me the cause was either fuel pressure to high or head gasket failure (which made me laugh) he was very rude and in the end just put the phone down on me, anyone thinking of 1 of these cams i'd think again not having a go as I got a proper cam coming shortly just advising people not to waist their money, cam had covered very little mileage and the cam that come out had been in 14mths and that's fine so has gone in for now

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I've had one in mine for about 40,000+ miles. :)  Not a real lairy one, just a road cam.

 

Then you're not making as much power as you could either, that Dbilas cam Steve posted is for a Standard PD engine, you need a longer duration to match the big turbo. The Sport spec. looks better but will still peak at about 4500, the link I posted peaks at 4700 which will suit much better.

 

It's not about which company makes it (although Newman do make some horrific quality cams) so much as the 'scary math' numbers in the cam spec.

 

Never buy a cam from a company that does regrinds if you want top quality.

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Ah mine might well be "fast road" - its definitely non standard. :)  I got it through a guy in Europe who was in to tuning his TDIs in around 09/10 on his recommendation. :)

 

I like the ones on the npsheads website.  There seems to be some serious TDI tuning passion on there.

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What sort of condition was the cam that had been on for 14 months, Steve?

You find the cause of the your overheating?

cause of over heated was head gasket gone between cylinder 1 and 2 the original cam was mint its gone back in for now as dibilas went are on holidays from the 30/7/15 till the 17/7/15 so I got to wait

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Then you're not making as much power as you could either, that Dbilas cam Steve posted is for a Standard PD engine, you need a longer duration to match the big turbo. The Sport spec. looks better but will still peak at about 4500, the link I posted peaks at 4700 which will suit much better.

 

It's not about which company makes it (although Newman do make some horrific quality cams) so much as the 'scary math' numbers in the cam spec.

 

Never buy a cam from a company that does regrinds if you want top quality.

It state the cam was not a regrind if you read listing

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Then you're not making as much power as you could either, that Dbilas cam Steve posted is for a Standard PD engine, you need a longer duration to match the big turbo. The Sport spec. looks better but will still peak at about 4500, the link I posted peaks at 4700 which will suit much better.

 

It's not about which company makes it (although Newman do make some horrific quality cams) so much as the 'scary math' numbers in the cam spec.

 

Never buy a cam from a company that does regrinds if you want top quality.

send me a link to the correct cam in your opinion then and i'll go with that

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nps just come back to me with this

 

Hi Steve.

 

So your probably looking for ”bolt-on” camshaft?

Do you have stock valve springs, or stiffer?

 

Do you have new lifters / bearings?

 

I have few 10mm bolt-on camshafts at the shelf, or 10.5mm camshafts which require cylinder head machining and are not “bolt-on” type.

 

-Marko

 

in talks now :)

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Hi,

 

In that case I would recommend:

-          10mm lifting camshaft, 550€

-          DLC coated lifters, 25€/each = 200€

-          New camshaft bearings (worn bearings block the oil passages), 50€

 

Total would be 800€, but if you take the set, I will discount you 50€, so total would be 750€

 

10mm camshaft would be good for 2260vk powerband as I have designed it to peak HP ~4300-4400rpm.

 

-Marko

 

 

thoughts plz guys

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That's horrendous damage on the cam :(

Same quality new lifters and cam bearings are available on EBay cheaper than the above prices.

no wear on lifters what so ever

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or this kit

 

10.5mm would fit as well with that high limiter, but this is the best for your current limitations =)
Its always good to rotate over peak HP , so that engine would spent as much time on max HP area as possible.
 
Post to UK is 30€ and delivery time is typically one week or less.
 
750€ + 30€ shipping is 780€, which would be ~520 sterlings.
 
marco
 
full kit
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send me a link to the correct cam in your opinion then and i'll go with that

 

Let's compare these:

 

1)

 

http://www.newman-cams.com/pdf/volkswagen.pdf

 

Duration:  : 276/276
Valve lift:  : 9.3

 

2)

 

http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/Performance-camshafts/VW-VAG/1-9-2-0-TDI-PDE/hydro/New-camshafts/VW-1-9-2-0-TDI-PDE-Performance-camshaft::5607.html

 

Duration:  : 272/272
Valve lift:  : 9.8

 

3)

 

http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/Performance-camshafts/VW-VAG/1-9-2-0-TDI-PDE/hydro/New-camshafts/VW-1-9-2-0-TDI-PDE-Performance-camshaft::5606.html

 

Duration:  : 280/280
Valve lift:  : 10.5

 

4)

 

http://npsheads.omaverkkokauppa.fi/epages/npsheads.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/20120717-11092-127319-1/Products/901

 

Duration:  : 282/292
Valve lift:  : 10
 
5)
 

http://npsheads.omaverkkokauppa.fi/epages/npsheads.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/20120717-11092-127319-1/Products/902

 

Duration:  : 284/292
Valve lift:  : 10.5
 
The first figure in the duration is for the inlet and the second is for the exhaust, these figures are expressed in degrees of crank rotation since the cam runs at half crank speed, they tell you how long the valve spends lifted from its seat.
Lift is expressed in millimetres. Cheap cams are made from chill cast blanks, decent cams are made from steel billets.
Turbos need exhaust duration to extract the maximum energy from the exhaust gases at higher engine speeds, inlet duration is far less important but as you increase peak RPM you need more duration accordingly, valve lift is important because although peak gasflow isn't increased past a certain amount of lift, extra lift allows the cam to hold peak gasflow for longer thereby increasing effective dwell without opening the valve too fast and hard.
 
From these figures we can see that the hottest cam (5) allows for the highest peak RPM, NPS quote this as ~4500 RPM and cam (4) as ~4300 RPM, we can therefore extrapolate for cam (3) at ~4100 RPM and cam (2) as ~3800 RPM, cam (1) will be ~4000 RPM. The standard OE cam being ~3600 RPM (267/270).
 
With a GTB2260 and a flowed head you'll want the hottest cam to allow you to use full boost efficiently, revving to 5200 RPM is daft because you'll lose power past 4500 and risk bursting the bottom end for no reason.
 
You need cam (5) NOT cam (2) and don't skimp on the followers either.
 
Edit: Bugger, Marko beat me to it. Buy it. End of argument.
Edited by sepulchrave
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I've seen a few cams wear like that now, much worse even, so much the fuel pump stops turning.

They've all had new fuel pumps and camshafts at the same time, don't know what causes it though.

 

Insufficient hardening of the drive dog after machining.

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Insufficient hardening of the drive dog after machining.

Can run in affect it? Just thinking about the cam lobes also that's all.

I know your meant to put an additive in the oil, start the engine and idle it high for 25 minutes to harden it all. At least that's how my engineering colleagues do it on the rally engines...

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Can run in affect it? Just thinking about the cam lobes also that's all.

I know your meant to put an additive in the oil, start the engine and idle it high for 25 minutes to harden it all. At least that's how my engineering colleagues do it on the rally engines...

 

Not the drive dog, but the lobes and tappets, yes.

 

Your colleagues are doing it right, 2000 RPM for 20 mins with solid flat tappet engines then a visual inspection and an oil change, rally/race engines have very aggressive cam profiles with steep ramps, a regular road cam doesn't need as much care.

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Let's compare these:

 

1)

 

http://www.newman-cams.com/pdf/volkswagen.pdf

 

Duration:  : 276/276

Valve lift:  : 9.3

 

2)

 

http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/Performance-camshafts/VW-VAG/1-9-2-0-TDI-PDE/hydro/New-camshafts/VW-1-9-2-0-TDI-PDE-Performance-camshaft::5607.html

 

Duration:  : 272/272

Valve lift:  : 9.8

 

3)

 

http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/Performance-camshafts/VW-VAG/1-9-2-0-TDI-PDE/hydro/New-camshafts/VW-1-9-2-0-TDI-PDE-Performance-camshaft::5606.html

 

Duration:  : 280/280

Valve lift:  : 10.5

 

4)

 

http://npsheads.omaverkkokauppa.fi/epages/npsheads.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/20120717-11092-127319-1/Products/901

 

Duration:  : 282/292

Valve lift:  : 10

 

5)

 

http://npsheads.omaverkkokauppa.fi/epages/npsheads.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/20120717-11092-127319-1/Products/902

 

Duration:  : 284/292

Valve lift:  : 10.5

 

The first figure in the duration is for the inlet and the second is for the exhaust, these figures are expressed in degrees of crank rotation since the cam runs at half crank speed, they tell you how long the valve spends lifted from its seat.

Lift is expressed in millimetres. Cheap cams are made from chill cast blanks, decent cams are made from steel billets.

Turbos need exhaust duration to extract the maximum energy from the exhaust gases at higher engine speeds, inlet duration is far less important but as you increase peak RPM you need more duration accordingly, valve lift is important because although peak gasflow isn't increased past a certain amount of lift, extra lift allows the cam to hold peak gasflow for longer thereby increasing effective dwell without opening the valve too fast and hard.

 

From these figures we can see that the hottest cam (5) allows for the highest peak RPM, NPS quote this as ~4500 RPM and cam (4) as ~4300 RPM, we can therefore extrapolate for cam (3) at ~4100 RPM and cam (2) as ~3800 RPM, cam (1) will be ~4000 RPM. The standard OE cam being ~3600 RPM (267/270).

 

With a GTB2260 and a flowed head you'll want the hottest cam to allow you to use full boost efficiently, revving to 5200 RPM is daft because you'll lose power past 4500 and risk bursting the bottom end for no reason.

 

You need cam (5) NOT cam (2) and don't skimp on the followers either.

 

Edit: Bugger, Marko beat me to it. Buy it. End of argument.

Well explained :)

Even Steve will understand that :D

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