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Power steering readings. Do you seeanything strange?


dm222

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You just turn the steering from lock to lock a few times to bleed it.

 

If it's just that, since this pump was fitted 3 months ago, i guess it would be bleeded by now, but I did that yesterday without raising the front, no difference.

Edited by dm222
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If it's just that, since this pump was fitted 3 months ago, i guess it would be bleeded by now, but I did that yesterday without raising the front, no difference.

 

Yeah, it won't be that.

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Yeah, it won't be that.

 

Do you have any sugestions of the cause that the steering gets gradually heavier, being cleary noticiable after 20 minutes? I believe from a experience I did today, even if the car is idle it gets heavier.

Edited by dm222
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Take Cap off the pump reservoir ( engine off) steering left to right full lock 10 times,making sure no rising bubbles are visible in the fluid.Top up the reservoir as required,leave the cap off then start the engine.Repeat the procedure slowly. When the fluid level remains stable replace the cap and all should be sorted. It is easier to turn the steering if you can raise the wheels from the ground.....

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Another problem with this car, today I started the car and the starter wouldnt stop spinning, the same thing happened before when the engine is hot, I had to take the cable off to stop it...

Will change the starter, I'm really getting tired of this  :rain::sweat:

 

I will ask a mechanic for a budget to change the starter, bleed the system, change the sensor G250 and the earth cable from the engine. 

Edited by dm222
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Do you have any sugestions of the cause that the steering gets gradually heavier, being cleary noticiable after 20 minutes? I believe from a experience I did today, even if the car is idle it gets heavier.

 

I don't know, you seem to have done everything I would have suggested :no:

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Two weeks after the plug connector was changed I can say the steering is better than beffore, but still notice variations (not as much as before).

 

Today I looked at the work they done and I'm kind of worried... They cut part of cable do remove the connector and then putted another cable and then the connector...

 

1 - The lines seems too slim.

2 - The connectors seals look like they are not fully inside, could water get inside?

 

IMG_20151011_180016.jpg

 

 

If water gets inside then it will cause a short in the connector or flow inside the pump through those two small holes:

 

1002136691025_1262217.jpg

Edited by dm222
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I don't understand this at all. What are those blue things? Where is the proper plug?

 

 

This is the plug seen from above

 

The blue things are the plug isolator, so water doesnt get inside the connector, if water flows though the connector then it will end inside the pump because the plug where the connector plugs has holes inside as you can see three posts above.

 

Here it is a "normal plug"

 

5093993739.jpg

Edited by dm222
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^ So are those blue things an official repair? It's not waterproof at all by the looks of it. The plug should fit over the top of the hole not inside it.

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^ So are those blue things an official repair? It's not waterproof at all by the looks of it. The plug should fit over the top of the hole not inside it.

 

Dont undestand what you said, the plug is like this, so you need that seals so water doesnt get inside the two holes... The situation is that the plug is not totally inside and the wire seems to have space between it and the seal

 

1a84807cbf7dfed985af58aa663463170.jpg

 

 

Anyway this is very interesting, after months investiganting I belive I found one of the main causes for PAS fault in the cars equiped with this system:

Just look at this images:

 

vw_1.jpg

 

IMG_5339_edit.jpg

 

 

 

Be very carefull with the main plug guys!

Edited by dm222
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I think I see what you mean now. The blue things are on top of the plug. From the pic it looked like the plug wasn't there and the blue things were just pushed into the socket on the pump. But yeah, it doesn't look waterproof at all to me. You could maybe apply some clear silicone to it.

 

 

Those pics of pump electronics corrosion have been on here before. It's when the water gets past the silicone casing seal, which it sometimes does.

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I think I see what you mean now. The blue things are on top of the plug. From the pic it looked like the plug wasn't there and the blue things were just pushed into the socket on the pump. But yeah, it doesn't look waterproof at all to me. You could maybe apply some clear silicone to it.

 

 

Those pics of pump electronics corrosion have been on here before. It's when the water gets past the silicone casing seal, which it sometimes does.

 

Look at the arrows, the water can go inside by the plug. That's what I mean.

Edited by dm222
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Look at the arrows, the water can go inside by the plug.

 

Yes I see that but it can't go inside with the standard plug because it goes over the top of the socket hole. Like a roof.

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Water can't get in the via the standard plug. Show me where it can when the plug is completely over the socket hole. The plug they've put on yours does not fit over but looks like it pushes inside the socket hole, meaning that there is a trough for water to get into.

 

rsz_5untitled.png

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Yes it could possibly get in where the wires go into the plug but it is sealed on the proper Skoda plug. Your repaired one looks like water could get into it. I'd seal it all with clear silicone if I were you.

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It's tricky to estimate from the images, but are the yellow wires in the repair connector much thinner than the original wiring? If there's a significant difference, it might be better to use a second-hand connector off a scrapped car, with the correct size wires? Or take it back to the place that fixed it and tell them they've got the wrong wire size. How have the yellow repair wires been connected to the existing loom? Or do they go all the way to earth stud and battery fusebox?

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It's tricky to estimate from the images, but are the yellow wires in the repair connector much thinner than the original wiring? If there's a significant difference, it might be better to use a second-hand connector off a scrapped car, with the correct size wires? Or take it back to the place that fixed it and tell them they've got the wrong wire size. How have the yellow repair wires been connected to the existing loom? Or do they go all the way to earth stud and battery fusebox?

Existing loom

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Don't know why they didn't just use a second-hand plug with some wire left on it as Wino says. Would have been a much better job.

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