Power steering readings. Do you seeanything strange?

[dm222]

The problem is not the bolt, its the clamp or the battery deformed.

Ordered a new cable maybe I will replaced it this week if it atraves.

Since all this started just 2 months after a battery change its a possibility its worth check.

Edited 26 October, 2015 by dm222

[dm222]

While i'm waiting for the parts, noticed today something I already suspected.

When the steering gets harder so does the brake pedal, what is the correlation between them?

Edited 28 October, 2015 by dm222

[dm222]

Replaced the battery clamp today, without sucess.

Hope the OEM oil arrives tomorow.

[dm222]

How much do you usually tighten the battery clamps using this? I usually tigth it untill the clamps don't move. I'm afraid of doing to much or to little.

 

Edited 5 November, 2015 by dm222

[rum4mo]

That should be okay as long as the clamp and battery post are clean, I just use a 1/4" square drive "screwdriver handle" then just tighten it a bit more using a 1/4" square drive ratchet.

[dm222]

Hi,

 

Just some updates.

 

Replaced:

 

- Battery postitive cable (used).

- Fusebox (because the plastic was damaged in a battery change last year and it was not secure, I changed the whole thing).

- Oil to OEM oil.

 

Without results, so I don't know what to do anymore.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited 14 November, 2015 by dm222

[dm222]

My steering turned lighter this week, I changed the oil again last saturday, don't know if it's related.

 

So I did another log, and everything is the same but at the start the pump drawed 90A, I am worried.

Edited 25 November, 2015 by dm222

[chris-H]

Did you ever carry out the bleed procedure I pointed you to weeks ago?

[dm222]

Did you ever carry out the bleed procedure I pointed you to weeks ago?

Bought something to jack the car last saturday, will do that but right at that time the steering got lighter, if it gets heavier again it will bebthe first thing I do.

I asked a mechanic to do it but he didnt because he said its self bleeding.

I'm doing all the things myself now.

Edited 26 November, 2015 by dm222

[chris-H]

This system is categorically NOT 100% self bleeding. It is supposed to be..... I have followed your thread from the beginning because I went through all the trauma that you are going through to the point where I was going to sell my car.by it's very design you can get pockets of air within the pump or lines. Raising the car front just makes it easier to turn the steering because you haven't got the pump engaged, by all means do the procedure on the ground, your biceps will not thank you for it though.

[chris-H]

I might also add, if the system is truly self bleeding then when the trapped air is " bled " out of the lines how is the " empty " volume replaced with fresh fluid???? You HAVE to replace it manually yourself..... Think about it, I'm only trying to help, do the easy, cheapest option first!! I very nearly changed the rack myself at great expense when it wasn't needed.

[dm222]

I tried with the wheels in the ground but I feel its not the same thing.

Already have the material, it was cheap and it will be usefull in the future because during this processes I learned that I do a better job than most mechanics and I'm learning a lot.

Some people say "If you want the job well do it yourself" and its true.

Edited 26 November, 2015 by dm222

[dm222]

I might also add, if the system is truly self bleeding then when the trapped air is " bled " out of the lines how is the " empty " volume replaced with fresh fluid???? You HAVE to replace it manually yourself..... Think about it, I'm only trying to help, do the easy, cheapest option first!! I very nearly changed the rack myself at great expense when it wasn't needed.

Hi,

 

Bleeded the rack today. I turned the steering infinite times end to end with engine off and with engine on. There were bubbles but the level didn't drop and the steering feels the same.

I did notice two things, With the wheels off the ground and engine off. The steering is a little hard to steer in the corners than in the middle. Is this normal? Also in one of the sides when I'm almost reaching the end I hear a quiet "crack" noise.

 

I took a pic, there were more when I reached the phhone to take a picture most went away. The bubbles covered the whole thing.

 

Edited 29 November, 2015 by dm222

[chris-H]

So there was air trapped somewhere in the system. Did you follow the link I originally sent you? The reason you shouldn't carry out the procedure with engine running is because the steering pump is electric motor driven. You can knacker the pump if it itself has air trapped within its hydraulic parts

[dm222]

So there was air trapped somewhere in the system. Did you follow the link I originally sent you? The reason you shouldn't carry out the procedure with engine running is because the steering pump is electric motor driven. You can knacker the pump if it itself has air trapped within its hydraulic parts

 

Yes, I followed the video. I followed this procedure, I did move the steering from lock to lock a lot more than 10 times but the procedure was this one:

 

– Raise the vehicle until the front wheels are fully off the ground.

– Put the wheels in straight-ahead position.

– Unscrew the screwed lid of the hydraulic oil reservoir.

– With the engine off turn the steering wheel 10 x from stop to stop.

– Check the level of hydraulic oil, top up with oil if necessary

– Loosely screw on the screwed lid of the hydraulic oil reservoir, do not tighten.

– Start engine and run for approx. 10 seconds.

– Switch off engine.

– Check the level of hydraulic oil, top up with oil if necessary

– Loosely screw on the screwed lid of the hydraulic oil reservoir, do not tighten.

– Repeat the following steps until the hydraulic oil level no longer drops. The hydraulic oil level must reach the top marking.

R Start engine.

R Turn steering wheel 10 x from stop to stop.

R Switch off engine.

R Check the level of hydraulic oil, top up with oil if necessary

– Screw the screwed lid onto the engine pump aggregate reservoir.

 

 

Did your oil level dropped significantly when you did this? Because mine didn't. Was your steering harder to turn in the corners than in the middle with the wheels off the ground?

 

Unfortunately in my case I believe I need a new rack. During the procedure even with the engine off the steering was harder in the end than in the beginning.

Edited 30 November, 2015 by dm222

[chris-H]

The level did not drop significantly no. Maybe 10 mm or so but just enough to take it under the minimum level line on the reservoir. Try topping it up to the max level once all evidence of rising bubbles has disappeared. If you are still getting constant bubbles in your reservoir then unfortunately it could be seal related in the rack itself

[chris-H]

Just a thought, has anyone checked the universal joint where the steering column joins the rack??

If there is play due to being worn it can give some of the symptoms.

[dm222]

Just a thought, has anyone checked the universal joint where the steering column joins the rack??

If there is play due to being worn it can give some of the symptoms.

I inspected it visually and all seems OK.

Its behind the pedals isn't it?

Since I did the procedure the sterring became harder, maybe there is residues inside the rack and as they move it affects the steering.

That would explain why steering is stiffer in the ends.

[dm222]

Does anyone know any product to clean this kind of rack without damaging?

[chris-H]

Is your fluid now at the correct level in the reservoir? If not top it up.

You say the steering now feels harder, but is it constant? Mine used to feel " light and floaty " at times like you couldn't really feel the road / wheels through the steering wheel. Then it would be OK for a while.

If it is firmer now after you have done the bleed procedure then maybe you need to get used to the correct feel of the steering?

My steering and most others I'm sure feels stiff for maybe the last quarter turn of the steering wheel ( stationary). The residues you mention may have been the trapped air...

[dm222]

Is your fluid now at the correct level in the reservoir? If not top it up.

You say the steering now feels harder, but is it constant? Mine used to feel " light and floaty " at times like you couldn't really feel the road / wheels through the steering wheel. Then it would be OK for a while.

If it is firmer now after you have done the bleed procedure then maybe you need to get used to the correct feel of the steering?

My steering and most others I'm sure feels stiff for maybe the last quarter turn of the steering wheel ( stationary). The residues you mention may have been the trapped air...

 

The level is at the maximum.

So, did your steering became harder after the bleeding? Mine let's say it's in the middle, between when it was hard and when it was lighter, maybe a little harder than the middle.

What I have to test now to take all doubts is sometimes I do long trips like 400KM and when I do that at the end the steering is really hard.

Thank you for your help.

Edited 30 November, 2015 by dm222

[dm222]

Well it continues... I don't know what to do anymore so I give up.

I will try to find a new car, maybe a car without electric power steering, it's hard to find.

Edited 6 December, 2015 by dm222

[dm222]

I was ready to give up but today I shaked the power steering pressure lines and the steering became lighter. Did anyone had problems with those?

[dm222]

This is what I'm talking about:

 

Order of the cables is wrong and then the pressure line has to go to the other side by going over the return line. The support of the lines is broken ...

Cables touching the car body and in this manual says "Make sure that pressure line does not make contact with body or subframe.":

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk5/running_gear_axles_steering/steering/electro-hydraulic_power_steering/removing_and_installing_power_steering_box_left-hand_drive_vehicle/

 

 

 

 

Marks in the hose and a texture difference:

 

 

[chris-H]

I personally think you have had a sizeable amount of air in the system ( judging by the amount of air bubbles in one of your earlier reservoir pics). This in turn has damaged your pump.

Personally to protect your own sanity, as I very nearly lost mine.... Either get it to a vw independent specialist, not dealer or sell it. Orrrr depending how much it's worth and has annoyed you take it somewhere remote and have a play with a box of matches ( joke.....)

Good luck