Hi

 

I have a 52 plate 1.3mpi Fabia estate.

 

The immobiliser has started to play up, making it tricky and unreliable to start the car (flashing immobiliser warning light on the dash and the car comes to life and then stops).  I don't have the immobiliser secret 4 digit code, so can't override it.

 

So far I've tried:

 

1. Moving the steering wheel up and down and in and out to see if that works - no change (suggests there is no link problem between ignition and dash panel??)

2. Changing keys - worked once after the RAC got the car going, but same problem now when using that spare.

 

From what I've read on here and elsewhere, the most likely issues are either a faulty link between the ignition coil and the instrument panel (speedo etc) or the panel itself. 

 

Questions:

 

1. Does the charge in the battery affect this problem? From memory when the RAC managed to get it started the battery stood at 12.2v (car is used relatively infrequently). Would charging make any difference? (tricky but not impossible to arrange given the car's location).

 

2. I found an article about replacing that wiring by making a new link wire, but not on how to install it. Can anyone point me to any other resource about doing that? Has anyone else tried it and solved the immob problem that way?  Is it worth doing if the steering wheel movement 'trick' doesn't make a difference?

 

3. Does anyone know of a decent service that will refurb the instrument panel if I strip it out?  I understand Skoda will charge beyond £500 for a new panel, which makes the car a virtual write off.  I'm based near Cambridge.

 

4. Does anyone know how to get the immob secret 4 digit code. I've read some suggestion that you can do this with VCDS Lite. Is that correct?  If so, can anyone recommend an OBD reader that will work reliably with VCDS Lite and has drivers to run on Windows 7 or beyond?

 

Sorry for the volume of questions, but any help would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

David

 

 

as seen elsewhere (use of VAG.COM):-

 

Determining IMMO-ID & VIN (ECU)

[select]
[01 - Engine]
Look at the first "Extra" field. The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

---OR---

[select]
[01 - Engine]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Select Block 081.
[Go!]
The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID..
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

 

Determining IMMO-ID & VIN (Instrument Cluster)

[select]
[17 - Instruments]
Look at the first "Extra" field. The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID.
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

---OR---

[select]
[17 - Instruments]
[Meas. Blocks - 08]
Select Block 081.
[Go!]
The first 17-digit string is the VIN. The second 14-digit string in the Immo-ID..
[Done, Go Back]
[Close Controller, Go Back - 06]

 
 

Replaced batterys in key fobs?

If your car batt isnt getting enough charge that will effect alot.

The loom around steering my be faulty.

Remove the instruments and dismantle them to expose the PCB then reflow the joints for the main (green) connector after checking the reader coil for 23 ohms across the green and brown wires at pins 1 and 9. Easy peasy fix and zero cost.

 

Edit: The RFID chip in the keyfob is not powered by the key battery, it's powered and read by the induction loop reader coil.

Edited 12 August, 201510 yr by sepulchrave

VCDS will not give you the immobiliser PIN, only the immobiliser serial number.  This loom should fit, it plugs into the reading coil at one end and at the other end you need to remove the old wires from the multi plug and insert the new ones.

 

http://www.skodaparts.com/product/octavia-immobiliser-wiring-loom-1997-2008-31140

Hi

 

Thanks for your replies.

 

@fordfan

 

 

So if VCDS will only give the VIN and Immobiliser serial, how is the PIN obtained?  is this something only a Skoda themselves can give?  Obviously if I can get the PIN, I can move the car and do something more with it.  Incidentally, when the RAC managed to move the car when this happened before, they did so by clearing the error codes. Will VCDS do this?

 

Also, are you also saying that from your experience the problem is more likely to be the wires than anything else?

 

Thanks

 

David