I noticed a little while ago that my n/s front brake disc has a score mark around 2/3 of the way up from the hub. I took the wheel off and the score doesn't feel deep, however I could see nothing obvious stuck on the pad, and to my knowledge there have been no unusual noises or scrapes on b raking, and performance isn't affected.

 

I know the next step is to swing the caliper up and remove the pads, but I'm reluctant to do this on my main car. I have done brakes on cars before, but only second cars where it's no big deal if I get stuck or it has to stay in bits for a while.

 

The car is due a service asap for which I use a decent MD, but I'm worried if they see it they'll jump on the issue and say it needs new discs and therefore pads both sides. 

 

Only thing I can think of is I did almost get stuck in some mud in a car park whilst on holiday in Scotland and it was quite deep. Possibly grit or small stone got stuck in, maybe just temporarily?

 

Any solutions? 

The solution is to get the Discs Skimmed if bad enough.

 

But you are as well to get new discs if the scoring is bad enough because it costs much the same unless you have mates rates on skimming.

New Discs on is a quick job.

Surprisingly the Discs on the Fabia can be bad enough to change and the pads are still fine and out lasts them.

 

I get from the Motor Factor 4 New Discs and Pads all around for Under £100.

That is Ferodo.

They last better than what comes on the car from the factory. IME.

 

If the Braking is OK,

and the Pads OK, maybe leave them until after the Winter, as the new ones will be scored by Spring.

 

** 3 Year Old vRS

and your Brake Fluid needs changing if not already done,

You can get Discs & Pads fitted cheaper than at a Skoda Main Dealer, 

but if you are getting the Service done maybe ask for an All in price (Bargain),

or check out a quote at a VW Main Dealer, it can be cheaper for a 3 Year Minor Service with Brake Fluid change.**

I can never understand the reasoning behind changing scored disks unless it is extremely deep. Pads adapt to the score and the difference in braking efficiency is minimal if at all. Thin disks or rusty ones are an immediate change but scored.....

^ And a certain degree of 3-dimensionality will increase the surface area for both friction and cooling purposes. Bargain.

It's not that deep a score. I want to find out if anything is embedded in the pad though.

I was always under the impression old pads on a new disc was not advised George? And front brakes should always be done in pairs - discs and/or pads?

I was always under the impression you could change brake pads once, twice even 3 times before you needed new discs, 

because that was how the the parts were.

Discs lasted much longer than Brake Pads.

 

Then you stated getting crap parts made of crap material.

Change the Discs in Pairs, and put new pads on they are that cheap.

As to the rules made by others, if you are doing the work your self, then please yourself as long as you are doing it safely.

 

There are prople that can go through pads in a track session or 2. and people that hardly use brakes and then get corroded discs, 

and the pads then break up.

 

Inspect / check, & maintain and decide, or get someone else to and listen to their advice, they should be trained and looking out for you.

If it isn't making a grindy noise then I'd just leave it as the stone is probably long gone.

 

I used to be really careful about changing my brake pads at about 2mm remaining so I could machine the disc but with modern throw-away rotors I'm quite happy to take it down to the metal (or near enough).