Just for information.

For quite some time I have had problems with the coolant level warning light and siren telling me the water is low when it isn't. The reservoir tank has been changed to no avail but recently my garage removed the dash facia completely including disconnecting the two plugs. Since refitting, the problem with the warning has not appeared which to me means it was probably an intermittent connection on one of the plugs. I am keeping my fingers crossed

Hope this is of some help to other sufferers.

Cheers, that could be very useful information.

Just a matter of pulling out the cluster, unplugging and re-plugging those connections?

Battery negative off first?

So it would seem FREEDOM and yes, would recommend disconnecting battery although the mechanic didn't bother and there are no metal bits to short to. It's now 5 days and no "BLEEP" so still got fingers crossed. Cheers

While unplugging and reconnecting may clear the fault, this could be a temporary fix. Might be better  to re-solder the pins of the connector on the dash pcb, if you have some familiarity with soldering - you wouldn't want to be too heavy handed with the solder.

Yeah, if the problem is the connection between the pins and the board, rather than the mating surfaces within the connector pair.  Do you know how easy it is to get the cluster apart far enough to do any such re-soldering?

Anyone got any pictures of one at any stages of dis-assembly?

Nope but google provides similar for an octavia -

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/213692-speedo-instrument-cluster-problems-solved/

 

Part of the problem is that moving the connector could impact a dry joint almost anywhere on the board, not just the connector pins. Ideally you look for the signs of a dry joint - less shiny finish to the solder etc.

Cheers for finding that.

Looks a bit of a mission, but not that bad.

I wonder if the loom connectors for the cluster are moisture-proof or not, must have a look at my Polo.  If they're not sealed, that would 'improve' the chances of it just being a pin-socket (bad)connection rather than a solder joint, I think.

 

Lunchtime edit: Super-easy to get clocks out on the Polo. Unsealed connectors.

Getting the cluster out is a cinch, drop steering wheel to lowest and pull it out as far as possible, pry off trim and remove two torx screws.

 

Simply reflow all the solder joints to the multiway connectors you disco'd to get the cluster out. Job done.

 

Edit: The problem is caused by the crummy lead-free solder used during manufacture, it fatigues and oxidises causing dry joints.

Edited 30 September, 201510 yr by sepulchrave

Getting the cluster out is a cinch, drop steering wheel to lowest and pull it out as far as possible, pry off trim and remove two torx screws.

 

Simply reflow all the solder joints to the multiway connectors you disco'd to get the cluster out. Job done.

 

Edit: The problem is caused by the crummy lead-free solder used during manufacture, it fatigues and oxidises causing dry joints.

 

Yeah, as I said in the post just above yours, I've established the ease of removal on the Polo, and from what TMB said in my thread, Fabia is similarly easy. Dismantling the clocks far enough to reflow solder joints is a bit more involved, so I would/will personally try the OPs solution first.  I have no fear of dismantling nor soldering, but I'm not (yet) convinced it's necessary.

Show me a 'before' photo of such a repair on a set of these clocks and I may change my mind.

Yeah, as I said in the post just above yours, I've established the ease of removal on the Polo, and from what TMB said in my thread, Fabia is similarly easy. Dismantling the clocks far enough to reflow solder joints is a bit more involved, so I would/will personally try the OPs solution first.  I have no fear of dismantling nor soldering, but I'm not (yet) convinced it's necessary.

Show me a 'before' photo of such a repair on a set of these clocks and I may change my mind.

 

It's only necessary if you start to get spurious warning lights, dodgy dial readings or immobiliser reader coil issues.

 

Disassembly of the cluster is also easy, simply remove the lens and twist and pull the hands anticlockwise then remove the main plastic body to expose the top of the PCB, no need to touch the stepper motors.

Cheers, that's encouraging.

It's actually a workmate's car I'm  going to try to persuade him I can fix (Thermostat/coolant warning thread), so minimal interventions are preferred if possible. He's content to just live with the spurious coolant level warnings that seem to happen about once a journey. He just cycles the ignition and it's usually problem solved for that journey.

 

I'll work on him though, 'cos I don't like to leave a problem unsolved.

I'll work on him though, 'cos I don't like to leave a problem unsolved.

 

I'm the same - like a dog with a bone   

That has prompted a few comments. Regarding access and soldering. Yes, I can access quite easily and I have 50 years of soldering expertise while servicing T/Vs etc but I think I will wait and see if the fault(s) recurr. Thanks to all for your input