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kep fob problems and power loss

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hi , I am new to this site ,

I have bought a 52 plate Octavia diesel elegance ,

the key fob will unlock the car but not lock it ,

and also the car pulls like a train until it gets warm , then the car just becomes very sedate , it looses it get up and go , no grunt even if you change down and accelerate , can anyone help ?????..

andy

Firstly with the locking I would say you need to get your door card off and check the multiplug and it's pins where the loom connects to the window motor in the drivers door. There's a how to check your multiplugs post in the tech section. Water gets in there and screws things up. Also check the wiring loom itself for fractures/weaknesses/breakages through each door pillar and near window regulator runners. Could be a central module thing but multiplug issues are common, I'd certainly start with that.

2nd thing sounds like your car is going into limp mode as the ecu doesn't like something that's happening so it's shut things down for safety. Turning off and on again will clear it for a while, but you need a vcds scan to see if you can find out what it is that it doesn't like. Is the car remapped?

Just noticed it's for the diesel, related to 2nd thing sticking vanes are pretty common, but have a scan see what pops up.

My Superb did the locky thing after a cam belt change.  Don't ask me how or why, but it was fixed by the garage taking the car's battery out of line for a few minutes.

 

Good call on getting it scanned. On a 110TDi I had from the same era, flat power turned out to be a duff Air Mass Meter.

 

Gaz 

Nice lucky fix with the locking, certainly worth a try as I guess it will go to basic settings.

MAF is a possibility, could be a lot of things

I'd put money on the mass air flow meter. Check for holes in pipes & sucking noises too just incase it's a worn vacuum pipe.

A scan via vcds is a must. It will check every peripheral/ancillary. It costs me £35 GBP to get it scanned for faults, until i buy my own cable and software.

If no joy with MAF then check for compression and cracks in pipes and metallics like exhaust manifold etc. It's definitely something affected by heat.

Edited by shivadow

I would be inclined to suspect sticky vanes, what variant diesel do you have, 90, 110, as that will tell if it has a VNT turbo or not, as only Diesels us a variable vane turbo at that age, petrol turbo's use a different design. An engine model code would be even better if you have it, i.e AZJ, ASX etc.

 

If it is a VNT engine, there is a very useful thread here - http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/243533-the-mr-muscle-vnt-turbo-treatment-thought-we-needed-a-guide-of-sorts/

 

As YellowCar said, what happens when it drops into limp mode if you switch off and restart?, does it improve for a while again?.

 

Code scan will be useful in eliminating other causes too

  • Author

ok guys,  thank you for all the advice you ve all given , I ll check things out and get back to you ,

again many thanks.

Andy  

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

Hi guys ,

I had my son take the turbo and the EGR valve to work and clean them out , also I ve put a new airflow sensor in , and it runs a lot better ....... BUT ..... when I drive it hard  the car looses power , I switch off and then its ok again ..... any help would be appreciated please , the car is lovely to drive in general , its my third skoda ....

Edited by andycap2

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