Yeah but instead of straining against the side of the TB, the arm is now just going to be straining against this metal block instead surely?

Possibly but for over £400 less I'm willing to give it a go......lets watch this space

It is very nicely machined and fits snugly, bit of a pig of a job though getting the exhaust manifold off but the "wedge" was simple

I've just been told by a dealer that the inlet manifold for my TSI is £320 inc postage.  What part number applies to the 2L TSI?

 

Not too impressed either as they're refusing to give me a part number, and are instead insisting "it is the right part"... 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-PETROL-VARIABLE-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-06J133201AS-/381238613094?hash=item58c3979466:m:m5D3wFgZjWiaOuduIdTFSHg  for the 2.0 tsi vRS.

Looking more likely that I need a new IM.  Had the car serviced today, and the P2015 is back. He said it was constant, rather than intermittent, but at the time, I saw no EML.  However, on driving it home, my idle revs are all over the place, and then as if by magic, the EML flashes up on the dash.  Obviously I couldn't record it whilst driving, but he's a short clip.  It only happens after applying power - once the revs are finally down to 800RPM, they stay there. The problem is at junctions etc - as you slip into neutral, the revs don't immediately drop to 800, but instead fluctuate between 1000 and 1500.  I had manually replicate this is in neutral, as shown below.  At 10s, I increase the revs on the accelerator, but afterwards to needle/revs are moving all on their own.

 

What's irritating me the most, is that the car was not doing this before it went in for it's service/MOT. Is it more likely to be coincidence or have they messed something up, or damaged/unplugged a sensor?

Edited 24 October, 201510 yr by planehazza

Went back along and he checked, and yup, P2015/8013 is back. However, oil was all over the engine bay as he had forgotten to securely clip the oil dipstack back. Could that have caused this? After reconnecting the dipstick and clearing the codes the fault has vanished, but I do not know which of the two has resolved it.

Yep itll be with the dipstick out its causing the rising revs and being slow to return to normal. Can also get same symptoms with a pcv thats past its best. But usually a pipe leak or like this a dipstick seal isnt there

Yep itll be with the dipstick out its causing the rising revs and being slow to return to normal. Can also get same symptoms with a pcv thats past its best. But usually a pipe leak or like this a dipstick seal isnt there

Great thanks. Mind at rest. Means I don't immediately need a new IM. Thinking I'm going to leave this TB/IV cleaning project until new year when I've got more light, and when it's warmer. Can't do it next weekend as I'm away and can't do it today as I don't have the needed parts. Two weeks time it'll just be too dark and cold :/

I have the same on mine, on the right hand side of the inlet there is an arm with a ball and socket type connection, the ball/socket is worn and comes away from its fixing. 

 

The TSI cannot have a fix applied to it as its controlled by a vaccume, where the TFSI is controlled by a motor and can have a delete fix applied to it. 

 

I've a fix up my sleeve for it, but not sure if it'll work permanently.

I have the same on mine, on the right hand side of the inlet there is an arm with a ball and socket type connection, the ball/socket is worn and comes away from its fixing. 

 

The TSI cannot have a fix applied to it as its controlled by a vaccume, where the TFSI is controlled by a motor and can have a delete fix applied to it. 

 

I've a fix up my sleeve for it, but not sure if it'll work permanently.

Hi mate, sorry I didn't spot this reply. Do you have a photo by any chance so I can take a look? Not sure exactly where this part is. 

Pretty sure the manifold is upside down here but this is the part i mean. 

 

Thanks. Been back today, but this time to swift in westerhope. Was £50 for it to be diagnosed but the guys were helpful and knew their stuff.

They're going to quote me the price of the I'm, and I'll fit it and clean/decode the backs of the valves whilst I'm at it. What's the part number for 2.0 TSI inlet manifold please?

If you can repair then go for it.

I started getting the P2015 which started off as "now and again" - got it, cleared it, drove for 3 weeks.

Then it started appearing each time I started the car and then I'd clear it in the morning and it then needed clearing again the same day.

 

Had my inlet manifold replaced a couple of weeks ago - £705 all in with labour charges.

I'm still currently waiting for Skoda to offer their first "goodwill" on this repair - dealership tells me they like to start at 20%, I'm then going to call them direct and attempt to negotiate up to 50%

 

But I'd say a repair would be a lot cheaper

Ouch. Swift verbally quoted "around £600" to replace it, but I want to clean the car on build up. I was honest with them and said I can't afford to pay someone to do it because it'd probably cost £900+ to have the inlet manifold replaced and the carbon removed whilst it's off. I'm just going to order the part and do it all myself. It's going to be a daunting, long task but I'm confident I'll manage it.

Before I go ahead with ordering the IM, I'm going to replace the flap sensor on the left of the IM.  Can someone confirm for me that this is the right part please?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221582941911?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

 

 

Can't you just actuate the motor whilst measuring the output of the position sensor - that will tell you if the actuator is moving its full travel. If it is then it isn't stuck completely.

 

 

Going back to the above, I've now had two people check the motor/actuator (I believe the TSI is vacuum controlled?) and all check out OK. I'm led to believe, it's either the runner (new IM needed) or the sensor.  I've confident the sensor is OK however. Besides, P2015 on mine is intermittent so I'm also of the mind that the runner/flaps are just catching on the vanes in the inlet ports hence giving the intermittent fault.  This is the only thing holding me back splashing out £300 on a new IM, otherwise I'd just buy it and swap it for peace of mind.  I'm reluctant to do so if I find that my inlet ports are so gunked up in carbon that that is in fact what's causing the issue, and the IM is in fact faultless. It's catch 22 because I won't know until I've taken the IM off to clean the valves etc.

Edited 7 March, 201610 yr by planehazza

Just another thought. Could it be the coil packs?  I'm not getting any misfire codes but the coils are the original ones that are now 69k miles old.  Can I disconnect them one by one whilst the engine is running to monitor RPM changes to make sure they're all running properly? Or would codes appear well before then?

My new intake manifold should be here at the end of the week I hope, so I'm going to swing by TPS tonight to pick up the injector seals.  Aside from those and this list, is there anything else you can think of that I'll need to replace the IM?

 

• Torx T30
• Oil Removal Tool
• 17mm Wrench
• 13mm Wrench
• 5mm Hex
• Hose Pick (optional)
• Deep 10mm Socket
• #10 Triple Square

I'll be taking the opportunity to remove carbon build up, so I plan on using a flat screwdriver to remove large deposits, followed by drill with a wire brush attachment and lots of seafoam.  

 

How would you recommend I turn the crank to close the ports? I'm aware there's a positition you can put it at that will close the valves of cylinders 2, 3, and 4 at the same time, but how can I turn the crank to get into cylinder 1's ports? Is there a point I can use a ratchet to manually turn the crankshaft over, or should I just blip the ignition until the valves are closed?

 

 

Make sure you have some long extension bars to reach the manifold bolts/nuts (my 30cm 1/4" drive got a lot of use) plus a strong magnetic pick up tool is very useful for extracting and reseating some of the bolts.

 

See my comments here, particularly about the M10 bolt at the bottom of the support bracket. It must be possible somehow, but may require a lot of swearing and tea to solve since you aren't touching the coolant system.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/392294-preparing-for-tsi-intake-valve-clean-and-replace-waterpump/

 

 

As for cleaning - you must have some picks, eg.the small ones in this set.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/ViVo%C2%A9-Scraper-Removal-Rubber-Handle/dp/B017GDJQ8U?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1

 

You can turn the crank pulley damper with a ratchet (clockwise only, don't go against the tensioner!) to close the valves.

Make sure you have some long extension bars to reach the manifold bolts/nuts (my 30cm 1/4" drive got a lot of use) plus a strong magnetic pick up tool is very useful for extracting and reseating some of the bolts.

 

See my comments here, particularly about the M10 bolt at the bottom of the support bracket. It must be possible somehow, but may require a lot of swearing and tea to solve since you aren't touching the coolant system.

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/392294-preparing-for-tsi-intake-valve-clean-and-replace-waterpump/

 

 

As for cleaning - you must have some picks, eg.the small ones in this set.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/ViVo%C2%A9-Scraper-Removal-Rubber-Handle/dp/B017GDJQ8U?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1

 

You can turn the crank pulley damper with a ratchet (clockwise only, don't go against the tensioner!) to close the valves.

 

Cheers dude, much appreciated. I don't have any extension bars, other than the ones in my set, but they're only like 15cm tops:

 

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-professional-200-piece-socket-and-ratchet-spanner-set

 

I've not got any picks, but I do have lots of small hobby screwdrivers etc.  I was tempted to get some picks for the hoses but for the amount I'll use them, I haven't bothered so far. Same goes for hose clip pliers.

 

I take it I'll need the plugs out so I'm not fighting compression?