Hi all,

After much fighting with the symphony to get it out (glovebox came out in the end).

I finally got to test my 'new' (second hand touchscreen double din). However after a while it seemed to not recognise the 'touches'.

Although I'm not sure the unit is to blame, when I took the connections out of the symphony,I noticed the insulation on a couple of wires had split (on a red one for def).

So I was thinking that there may be a power issue that is stopping it from working. After it stopped working i unplugged everything then reconnected and it worked fine for a minute, then screen went blank and it started up again.

So am I right in thinking the loss of touchscreenay be power related and if so, how do I repair the wires?

I don't think it's a power issue. If there would be the probabilty that the HU doesn't get enough V or Amps, it wouldn't start at all IMHO. There might be a hardware failure though. If you have the option to test it indoor, go for it. An ATX PSU from a computer does the job pretty well. 

As above....

 

If needed, buy an autoleads adapter (pretty much any of them) and cut it to shreds to make a test loom.

I don't think it's a power issue. If there would be the probabilty that the HU doesn't get enough V or Amps, it wouldn't start at all IMHO. There might be a hardware failure though. If you have the option to test it indoor, go for it. An ATX PSU from a computer does the job pretty well. 

 

 

As above....

 

If needed, buy an autoleads adapter (pretty much any of them) and cut it to shreds to make a test loom.

right so i need to test it indoors. the problem is...i wouldn't have a single clue how to do that

 

Would anyone offer this service commercially? Or is it easy enough to do DIY?

It's a pretty easy DIY job so you might want just to stick with the basics. You need to take the HU inside and have 12V power supply. I suggested using a computer ATX PSU because they do have 12V output and it's pretty stable. But if you don't really know what you are doing, you might want to take it somewhere to be tested.

It's a pretty easy DIY job so you might want just to stick with the basics. You need to take the HU inside and have 12V power supply. I suggested using a computer ATX PSU because they do have 12V output and it's pretty stable. But if you don't really know what you are doing, you might want to take it somewhere to be tested.

I will show this to our IT bloke, as he used to be a mechanic as well. hopefully should be able to figure something out

I reckon the digitiser thingy is bust. Same thing happened to my missus' iPhone and had to get that replaced.

It's a pretty easy DIY job so you might want just to stick with the basics. You need to take the HU inside and have 12V power supply. I suggested using a computer ATX PSU because they do have 12V output and it's pretty stable. But if you don't really know what you are doing, you might want to take it somewhere to be tested.

Thanks, I have sourced a ATX PSU and have been given a brief guide on which wires/how to get the power to kick in (but if youd like to give me a guide too that would also be appreciated!), I have been assured by our IT bloke that i wont kill myself...will report back...

Yellow wire is the +, black wire is the -. Use them from a Molex connector. In order to start alone the psu (without a computer) you will have to connect green and black (short them).






I'm on my phone now. Pm me if you need more help, I don't mind.


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Edited 30 October, 201510 yr by Alexandru

To further this, connect the red and yellow from stereo loom to the yellow of psu and stereo black to psu black. Bridge the green and black on the psu with a paperclip, fits nicely in the plug

Thanks lads this is basically what I was told.

Was told I can get the power from the two yellow wires in that long block though (in the pic).

The two I was told to short seemed much further apart though (based on a printout of what the wires do)

Will get some pics Tomoz before I attempt owt but this is the diag I was given.

http://www.smpspowersupply.com/atx-pinout.png

Going from the diag on the right Was told to take power from either of the yellow '+12V1' on the bottom left.

Told to bridge (with a paperclip) the 'PWR_OK'(grey on left) to the 'PWR_ON' (green on the right)

Update, went and got a iso connector, set up all the power and...nothing, got a few pics of my set up which I'll post shortly.

Alexandru- the power connector you pictured, the psi I have doesn't have any of those so I used one of the yellow 12v wires from the large connector in your second pic.

Right, well I figured it out, a pic is below,might create a guide while I have it all set up.

Basically had to use both negative wires, and both 12v wires - one to each of the power in on the HU.

Used it for about 20mins without issue, so fault appears to lie with the car wiring.

So my options are to... Try and repair the where the insulation was cut although the wires seemed fine...

Or do I cut the fitted iso block off and fit the new one I bought for the test (if this one, do I solder or use connection blocks?

Used it for about 20mins without issue, so fault appears to lie with the car wiring.

So my options are to... Try and repair the where the insulation was cut although the wires seemed fine...

Or do I cut the fitted iso block off and fit the new one I bought for the test (if this one, do I solder or use connection blocks?

 

IMO....

Hack the plastic support out at the back of the stereo aperture on the car. Then use the new ISO adapter as an extender. Maybe don't push the h/u home to start with.

Also also; maybe snip any of the wires in the new adapter loom that are not needed. VW define rather different uses to some wires than the standard.... And the new h/u might expect.

 

J.

IMO....

Hack the plastic support out at the back of the stereo aperture on the car. Then use the new ISO adapter as an extender. Maybe don't push the h/u home to start with.

Also also; maybe snip any of the wires in the new adapter loom that are not needed. VW define rather different uses to some wires than the standard.... And the new h/u might expect.

J.

Thanks, I think I will fit connection blocks on the wires with split insulation first. The new block I bought is basically an extension block so will attach that (as any extra wires won't be bridged.

And see how I get on, if still issues will pull out again and cut the old block off.

Hope you'll sort it out ! At least you know the HU is in good condition!

Edited 3 November, 201510 yr by Alexandru

Hope you'll sort it out ! At least you know the HU is in good condition!

Thanks for all of you help and guidance on this!

 

I installed on Sun, so far all is working fine (although the issue did crop up once shortly after fitting, but not since). So looking good.

 

The only thing i cant figure out is that the display is suppose to change when i  turn my lights on- it doesn't so i'm wondering if the extension I've used doesn't have this connection... might pull out and remove the extension piece. 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/196288-oem-wiring-loom-colours-pins-for-stereos/

 

Pin 6

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/196288-oem-wiring-loom-colours-pins-for-stereos/

Pin 6

Cheers! Will have a gander and see what's what. Much easier to remove the new stereo compared to the old one!