I need my brake disk and pads replacing but do I have to use OEM brakes or can I use others as my car is still under 3 years old?

I need my brake disk and pads replacing but do I have to use OEM brakes or can I use others as my car is still under 3 years old?

You can find brakes on eBay, I would speak to your dealership and ask if you were able to source genuine brakes can you fit them? As it will probably be cheaper that way http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FRONT-BRAKE-PAD-SET-PBP1208-/391306492293?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda%7CModel%3ACitigo&hash=item5b1baf3985:g:VAEAAOSwT5tWMfV4

I'd go for discs from Brakes International and pads from a Skoda dealer. I got Breck pads from Brakes International. They are higher grab that stock pads, which gives more stopping power, but they trigger the ABS easily and once triggered, stopping distances go up significantly.

The Breck pads seem very hard wearing though, if you can live with the relatively poor performance during ABS intervention.

^^^^^^^^ ?

How often to you have ABS Intrevention, ?

and when you do, surely you want the best efficiency the brakes and the system can provide.

As long as they are of OE quality it does not affect warranty

If you wS to go for bigger brakes or mod them , then it could

Sarah

^^^^^^^^ ?

How often to you have ABS Intrevention, ?

and when you do, surely you want the best efficiency the brakes and the system can provide.

I do driver training, so often. The car seems to run on more under ABS, intervention than some. The stock pads minimise ABS intervention.

Which suggest that changing the front pads has adjusted the front:rear bias and that is what is triggering the ABS intervention.

Which suggest that changing the front pads has adjusted the front:rear bias and that is what is triggering the ABS intervention.

Not quite. With the standard pads, it was near impossible to generate enough brake pressure to trigger the ABS fully on a dry road. I can make a lot of pedal pressure and I struggled to get the ABS fully functioning. Many of my students couldn't get anywhere near triggering it. The Breck pads have more grab and will allow ABS to come in with reasonable brake pressure, but, even with high brake pressure, the car still brakes less effectively with the Breck pads if you go past ABS threshold. The ABS system appears to have been calibrated to release a lot of brake pressure once triggered. The Breck pads are less progressive than the stock items too, I'll be going back to stock pads.

Not quite. With the standard pads, it was near impossible to generate enough brake pressure to trigger the ABS fully on a dry road. I can make a lot of pedal pressure and I struggled to get the ABS fully functioning. Many of my students couldn't get anywhere near triggering it. The Breck pads have more grab and will allow ABS to come in with reasonable brake pressure, but, even with high brake pressure, the car still brakes less effectively with the Breck pads if you go past ABS threshold. The ABS system appears to have been calibrated to release a lot of brake pressure once triggered. The Breck pads are less progressive than the stock items too, I'll be going back to stock pads.

 

I am going to have to be pedantic here... If the front pads insufficiently retarded motion effectively, but the new ones do... Then the front:rear bias has (with no uncertainty) been adjusted.

 

However, if you cannot trigger the ABS with the original pads, no matter how strongly you bury the middle pedal then something is amiss... or your tyres are far too capable.

Just also remembered you are taking about the Citigo... I previously had an Up! and had no issue triggering the ABS when jumping on the middle pedal (when a cat ran out in front of me).

 

But that did have the original Falken tyres on, which were shocking.

Under 3 years old and needs disks!!!! How many miles has the car done?

Chris GB,

what kind of Driver training is it that you do, and what is your qualification?

 

ABS,  Anti-lock Braking System.  

Why on a dry road with the good traction in a light car where there is braking without locking up do you need or want ABS Intervention?

I am going to have to be pedantic here... If the front pads insufficiently retarded motion effectively, but the new ones do... Then the front:rear bias has (with no uncertainty) been adjusted.

However, if you cannot trigger the ABS with the original pads, no matter how strongly you bury the middle pedal then something is amiss... or your tyres are far too capable.

I never claimed the brake balance wasn't changed. The ABS is triggered as a result of the braking force on the front wheels exceeding the grip the tyres have. Stock pads never did it, Breck muster more stopping force, shorter stops pre ABS, but make it easier to trigger ABS, and longer stops with ABS triggered.

Tyres where Continental Premium Contact 2e, not the last word in grip, but decent enough.

Not sure there was anything wrong with the OE pads, or the setup in general, but there could well be a number of pad suppliers to the factory, some will be better than others.

Under 3 years old and needs disks!!!! How many miles has the car done?

My discs and pads lasted around 35,000 miles, but if you are replacing due to warpage, could as readily be 3000 miles.

Chris GB,

what kind of Driver training is it that you do, and what is your qualification?

ABS, Anti-lock Braking System.

Why on a dry road with the good traction in a light car where there is braking without locking up do you need or want ABS Intervention?

ADI(a). I train my students to fully utilise the ABS. Something that happens with drivers in emergencies is that when the ABS triggers, they panic and release the brake pedal. If the student is properly trained, they will be familiar with ABS and the pros and cons of using it and will be better equipped to deal with an emergency situation.

You may want the ABS intervention in a situation where steering is needed during speed reduction.

Edited 18 November, 201510 yr by Chris GB

But it sounds like you want to have the ABS work in a non Brake Locking up situation rather than when ABS is expected to work,

eg Low Traction / Friction Braking surfaces.

 

To a non Qualified Instructor but a driver of many vehicles in many weather conditions that sounds very strange.

But it sounds like you want to have the ABS work in a non Brake Locking up situation rather than when ABS is expected to work,

eg Low Traction / Friction Braking surfaces.

 

To a non Qualified Instructor but a driver of many vehicles in many weather conditions that sounds very strange.

ABS is supposed to work in all conditions. It's uses include optimising braking on multi mu surfaces and allowing control of direction changes under emergency braking conditions. There are some situations where an experienced driver in a familiar car can out perform the ABS system, but in most emergency situations, the ABS will be better / safer. It's not just about minimal stopping distances on ideal surfaces in a straight line, which is pretty much the only situation where not using the ABS may stop you more quickly. Not training my students how to properly utilise the ABS would be very poor and would leave them lacking the necessary experience, so all of them get to fully use the braking system.

Great stuff.

Maybe you need to sort the Brake Pads and Discs out,

then you will have the Correct Gear and the idea.  Job done.