Hi all, I have been trawling the forums all day, and think that I have the answers but just want to check...

My MOT is due in a few weeks and I want to sort out the following issues:

1. Passenger door locked. I have removed the card and if I pull the lock up whilst pressing the button it will "sometimes" unlock. It doesn't unlock if I use the interior handle, the passenger motor makes a feint growl but nothing more.

2. drivers window will not wind up (tried 2 switches same issue), I have managed to get it to go up with gentle persuasion and a lot of luck I think.

3. Coolant sensor issue, I'm happy with the fix for that but I would like someone to point me in the direction of a replacement - dealer is quoting 45quid, would a scrapyard sensor be worth a try, if not where would you suggest I try?

4. I suspect that the seals are shot but again I'm happy with the fix for that too.

5. The drivers side window buttons do nothing to the passenger side window.

IT is really 1 and 2 that I need help with, indy vag specialist is quoting a few hundred for the door fix alone...

Is it possible that it is the issue with the door control unit it in the drivers side door, would this affect the passenger lock, and both Windows? If it is can it just be swapped or is it coded to the vehicle's ecu?

1, 2 and 5 are probably all issues with the driver's door wiring loom.

 

3 I presume you mean the Coolant Temperature Sensor, not the Coolant Level Sensor? If so, it's really not worth buying anything but a genuine CTS, which means dealer or a reputable motor factor.

Passenger door lock is probably close to death, get New one asap and fit. In the mean time get the door card off (or at least the three screws in the bottom out), if it locks permanently (and it will) you have to smash the door card off, then remove the carrier and then smash the lock out all while the door is closed.

This is a difference of the job taking 1 hour or 5 (I've done it).

're drivers window, poss the regulator is dying also, the loom is a good start due to it not working on other door. Ppl with more knowledge than me will be along soon no doubt.

Thanks guys, yes sorry I did mean the cts, by reputable motor factor do you mean somewhere like ECP or GSF?

Is there an easy way to test the drivers door loom?

I have already got the internal door card off, but I am down to the aluminium skin which is riveted on, how would I remove the lock, is it from the edge of the door and held in place by 2 bolts?

Sorry for the daft questions I'm just trying to get to the bottom of the issue quickly before the MOT ideally without spending hundreds at a garage.

Thanks guys, yes sorry I did mean the cts, by reputable motor factor do you mean somewhere like ECP or GSF?

Is there an easy way to test the drivers door loom?

I have already got the internal door card off, but I am down to the aluminium skin which is riveted on, how would I remove the lock, is it from the edge of the door and held in place by 2 bolts?

Sorry for the daft questions I'm just trying to get to the bottom of the issue quickly before the MOT ideally without spending hundreds at a garage.

yes it is just the two bolts for the lock, although you also have to remove the wire from the handle -as such you will need two guides made by a smarter man than me.

 

the rivets need drilling out (buy a decent 6mm bit!!!), and you need to buy the actual rivets from skoda (They are huge 6.3mm or something)  - use the search for the part number. You will likley need a lazy tong riveter to actually fit them (i got mine from toolstation).

 

Another option is to buy/fit rivnuts instead of rivets - i am hopefully going to be trying this out soon!

 

right - Guides!

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/119359-removing-the-ancillaries-carrier/ Follow most of this

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/113882-removing-a-door-handle-fabia-and-octavia/ --- how to remove the handle wire - 

 

One thing to note - the wire has to back in the exact same place as it was in the handle. I read on here the best way it to mark it with tip-ex (i used pink nail varnish!). You should just be able to make it out the the pic below, where you need to mark is in red, and the end of the wire is in yellow (the wire ends in a plastic cap)

 

Edited 15 December, 201510 yr by Thisday

I'm including ECP and GSF in "reputable motor factors", but you may have a reputable independent near you.

Update, I picked up a cts on the way to a garage today for the car to have some more repairs done following an accident that weren't fixed the first time around. Whilst there I asked if they would sort the door, which they will. It isn't as bad as I was expecting to be with regards cost, given the price of the part is around 160.

Then all I have left to do is fit the cts, and investigate the rogue window winding up issue, which may be motor related, or someone suggested that the cable/mechanism may just need lubing, not sure how true that could be?

Update, I picked up a cts on the way to a garage today for the car to have some more repairs done following an accident that weren't fixed the first time around. Whilst there I asked if they would sort the door, which they will. It isn't as bad as I was expecting to be with regards cost, given the price of the part is around 160.

Then all I have left to do is fit the cts, and investigate the rogue window winding up issue, which may be motor related, or someone suggested that the cable/mechanism may just need lubing, not sure how true that could be?

 

You can get a new (not OEM) door lock from ebay for £30

Edited 16 December, 201510 yr by Thisday

Oh well, never mind. I don't have the time to deal with it at the minute, the weather is awful, I need the car, I don't have a big enough rivet gun, I need to have it sorted before the MOT and the garage have the car for another reason.

Besides I needed to spend my Christmas bonus on something... Lol

So I changed the cts, and the light has gone out on the dash, the car feels better too. The door lock was sorted by the garage.

The knock from the passenger side required a new wishbone and something else, but that was all sorted under my insurance.

All that remains is the peculiar behaviour of the drivers window. I have 2 switch units, both will wind the window down, one will not bring it back up at all. The other will bring it back up in intermittent increments, sometimes nothing, sometimes an inch sometimes 4 inches. I have also stripped down the unit and cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner. I suspect either the motor or the door control unit, would this be a sensible guess? Is there anything else that it could be? I have tried the button all the way plus 5 seconds thing but no good. Which leaves me with disconnecting the battery, or the key in the door thing.

Edited 20 December, 201510 yr by dancingbear84

It's usually the switches, a common failure due to poor quality OE switches, they're not expensive so simply replace them with new.