X-Contact malfunction

[eyegr]

Yesterday night when I started the engine I lost power to both front lights, all fog lights and the ac blower fan. I could only use the high beam signal (not the permanent one).V

VCDS complained about implausible signal from the X-Contact. This is a contact at the ignition switch that closes when cranking only, sending a signal to two relays (X-Contact relief relay J59 and X-Contact relief relay 2 J339) to disconnect lights/ac to help the battery start the engine.

Today I took the car to the dealers and after hours of troubleshooting we ruled out fuses and both relays. The problem seems to be the ignition switch itself, P/N 6RA905865. Unfortunately the replacement part must be ordered from Germany, this means three weeks minimum. The electrician shorted the X-contact as a temporary remedy and I now have my lights and fan back, but I have to be careful not to crank with the lights on.

The replacement part does not seem to be expensive, about 50 pounds, but nevertheless I will be covered by the warranty as I was told.

[WillJohnson]

Oh geez that sounds a nightmare! Hope you get it fixed!

[RickTT]

That does sound like a bit of a nightmare... at least they have provided a temp fix

[Tom_vRS]

Thabk you for sharing this. Quite a rare problem I think, at least you're on the road I suppose.

[camelspyyder]

Who else, apart from me, would not drive it with a bodged electrical fix to the ignition master?

 

Has "potential disaster" written all over it IMHO.

[eyegr]

Who else, apart from me, would not drive it with a bodged electrical fix to the ignition master?

 

Has "potential disaster" written all over it IMHO.

Not really. All the electrician did was to provide the X-Contact relay with 12 volts from the switched circuit. This means that the relay will stay on when the key is at the "ON" position, no matter if the engine is cranked or not. This is not "potential disaster", as I said I only have to turn lights and AC on after the engine starts to ensure full power to the starter motor.

I was watching what he did the whole time, he secured and insulated the jump wire so there is no risk of loosening.

Apart from these, there was no other option for keeping the car roadworthy.

 

As a side note, removing the covers of the steering wheel column is very easy and does not require removing the steering wheel. All you have to do is remove one screw at the bottom, then pry off the top part (the one with the flexible "leather") and unscrew two more screws at the top (rotate the steering wheel to reveal them). Useful for cleaning the dirt in the future.

[RickTT]

Who else, apart from me, would not drive it with a bodged electrical fix to the ignition master?

 

Has "potential disaster" written all over it IMHO.

 

In fairness I would of requested a hire car from them at their cost until the car was fixed.

[eyegr]

In fairness I would of requested a hire car from them at their cost until the car was fixed.

 

This is very uncommon here, especially these days... They would never agree.

[RickTT]

This is very uncommon here, especially these days... They would never agree.

 

fair enough.

[eyegr]

I just got back home from the dealer. It took almost a month for the spare part to arrive but they fixed it at no cost as soon as it did.

 

The new part is this one:

 

 

Just in case anyone has the same problem in the future:

The replacement procedure is quite straightforward, remove the plastic covers from the steering column (three screws, one at the bottom and two on the top, revealed after prying it open), remove the connector, remove the old switch, replace the new one and reverse the procedure.

The most tricky part is to remove the old switch as it is "clicked" into place in the same way a car stereo is and you need to unclip it by inserting two long metal instruments into the two opposing holes. Other than that, pretty easy job.

 

I examined the old part, I did not see any visible damage. However, it can be further unscrewed (it has four torx screws) so I believe it could be repaired.

[andyabboo]

I just got back home from the dealer. It took almost a month for the spare part to arrive but they fixed it at no cost as soon as it did.

The new part is this one:

Just in case anyone has the same problem in the future:

The replacement procedure is quite straightforward, remove the plastic covers from the steering column (three screws, one at the bottom and two on the top, revealed after prying it open), remove the connector, remove the old switch, replace the new one and reverse the procedure.

The most tricky part is to remove the old switch as it is "clicked" into place in the same way a car stereo is and you need to unclip it by inserting two long metal instruments into the two opposing holes. Other than that, pretty easy job.

I examined the old part, I did not see any visible damage. However, it can be further unscrewed (it has four torx screws) so I believe it could be repaired.

[andyabboo]

Thanks for the entry mine has just developed the same fault awaiting for a call back from the dealer now

[andyabboo]

Car taken into Beadles Skida told them about this forum and what I thought the problem was, was given a waiting appt that afternoon and told I was correct loan car given and fault repaired the following morning, got to say outstanding service and helped no end by this thread, thanks

[Yak]

Adding my thanks as I've just had this problem at 92,000 miles on my Rapid 1.2 TSi Sport.  For a couple of weeks the air recirculation button was not working (no light coming on) and then had the same problem as op with dipped lights, main beam and AC/blower unit not working.  Got the replacement part off eBay for £20 (it's the version 1 part - no sticker over the hole to release the retaining catch) and was delivered within a few days.  Was a PITA to remove existing ignition switch, used 2 flat blade watchmaker screwdrivers to release the retaining catches but it was all trial and error - never really felt a release click/give.  New part fitted, cleared VCDS errors and re-ran with both faults listed below now cleared and all working as normal including the air recirculation button - presuming that this playing up was an early sign that the ignition switch was on its way out.

 

Thanks eyegr, 

 

Yak

 

VCDS Error Report Generated Prior to Fix:

 

Address 08: Auto HVAC (J301)       Labels: 6R0-820-045-9AB.clb
   Part No SW: 5JA 820 045 A    HW: 5JA 820 045 A
   Component: Man AC        H08 0101  
   Revision: 2015SH08    
   VCID: 3467466D97A180EA09-8060

1 Fault Found:
00898 - Control Circuit A/C compressor 
            007 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00100111
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 132
                    Time Indication: 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519)       Labels:. 6R0-937-08x-09.clb
   Part No SW: 6R0 937 087 R    HW: 6R0 937 087 
   Component: BCM PQ25 H+4  H34 0424  
   Revision: BF034001    Serial number: 0681 135140009
   Coding: 3C980B0000CB3400920008303C0B9CC80EC0400F60020000020000004000
   Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00161
   VCID: 4C973E8DEF51F82A71-8018

   Subsystem 1 - Part No: 5J0 951 172 
   Component: DWA-Sensor H0  H03 1211 
   Coding: 000000

   Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
   Component: LIN BACKUP HO  H05 1501 
   Coding: 000000

   Subsystem 3 - Part No: 5J0 951 172 
   Component: DWA-Sensor H0  H03 1211 
   Coding: 000000

2 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+ 
            011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00101011
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 138
                    Time Indication: 0

00157 - Terminal X 
            008 - Implausible Signal
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 01101000
                    Fault Priority: 3
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 96
                    Mileage: 148254 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2019.05.02
                    Time: 06:31:43

[VJK100]

Hi there, my 1.2 Rapid has developed this same fault. I'll be heading to the dealer in the morning armed with this thread - thank you all. Is it the ignition switch or the ignition pulse sensor I will need replacing? Many thanks for your help.

[Plantybass]

I signed up to this forum just to thank everyone. I had the same issues on my 2015 Rapid 1.2 TSI - blower, headlights, fog lights etc not working. 

 

I managed to "DIY" the replacement switch with the help of this youtube video for the location of the switch https://youtu.be/KYVjVhGVQ68

 

I used two nails (D2.2 xL45mm) to remove the defective part, the ones I used were a perfect fit for the hole under the sticker on the left. With the left nail jammed in, I then fiddled about with the right hand side and the old switch pretty much popped out once I found the correct place! 

 

All my issues are now fixed