Yep and the one for water in Oil was interesting and actually did work... Sizzling thinggy. But IF oil IN Coolant Well not covered as far as I saw. Will howerver extract some oil and see if it sizzles....

 

While planning, I have an nifty ODB2 adapter to WiFi and software on my iPAD to read and clear codes. BUT no port on the Felicia, IS it just hiding REALLY well OR does it NOT have that. Saw that the other threas hooked up to the cars controllers.. And that might be something to at least know where to do.

 

Br, Christian

Yep and the one for water in Oil was interesting and actually did work... Sizzling thinggy. But IF oil IN Coolant Well not covered as far as I saw. Will howerver extract some oil and see if it sizzles....

I doubt you'll be able to see any sizzle. The HGF is minimal.

 

While planning, I have an nifty ODB2 adapter to WiFi and software on my iPAD to read and clear codes. BUT no port on the Felicia, IS it just hiding REALLY well OR does it NOT have that. Saw that the other threas hooked up to the cars controllers.. And that might be something to at least know where to do.

Are you talking about Torque? Because Felicia 1.3 MPi is OBD1 compliant, not OBD2. The only useful software comes from RossTech (VAG-COM 311 or 409). The diagnostic socket should be near relay/fuse panel.

 

Edited 4 January, 201610 yr by RicardoM

Sorry, no not Torque. But ODB1 I see.. so what I have cant be used on the Felicia then Then I won't start looking What I SHOULD do it to clean out the garage... Brr.... And move my 19" rack out of it to make space for the car... *rushes of**

 

Br, C

If you are not too busy moving stuff, when you got some spare time, maybe you take some pictures of the electric heater you have for the cylinder head. We don't see something like that closer to the Equator and I'm sure people are curious. Show us how you hook it and share some instructions of use please.

On my car (right-hand drive model) the debug connector is actually in the driver foot well next to the door.  There is a cutout in the bottom of the dash for a port by the relay box, but for some reason its not fitted there.  My lead was sold as ODB2 compliant and works fine with it, so yours might well be OK.

If you are not too busy moving stuff, when you got some spare time, maybe you take some pictures of the electric heater you have for the cylinder head. We don't see something like that closer to the Equator and I'm sure people are curious. Show us how you hook it and share some instructions of use please.

 

Hehe - its an REALLY nice device (taking a pause in the clean out.. Just the 19" rack left..)

 

http://www.defa.com/file/8fb169f19820/411383.pdf

 

Is the installation instructions for the 1.3 MPI engine. and an illustration on how its inserted into the engine. I also have an normal electrical heater in the car. Then on the front bumper (Right under it) there is an socket to hook up to the electric grid. So when parking, you hook it up..... Then timer/Home Automation activates the socket when you set it to. I use alot of Home automation so Weekdays AND outside temp lower than 5 Celcius. Power on 06:30 - And I leave for work Normally around 7:30. So just before I get into the car. Unplug. Get inside. The heater made the coupe warm, the "plug" made the engine warm. Win win And just when I'm about to enter the highway - the car is Fully warm (5-10 min driving). Repeat when coming home from work... :-) Will take some pictures of it WHEN the car is INSIDE the garage

 

Edit: and for the fun of it. Added two pictures of the crammed space I call garage... IT will be the thightest squeese, but the measurements indicate the car WILL fit - And I MIGHT need to craw out the window.. We'll see...

 

Br, C

Edited 4 January, 201610 yr by criiser

On my car (right-hand drive model) the debug connector is actually in the driver foot well next to the door.  There is a cutout in the bottom of the dash for a port by the relay box, but for some reason its not fitted there.  My lead was sold as ODB2 compliant and works fine with it, so yours might well be OK.

 

Ahaaaa - Eh, would you mind terribly snapping an picture of that so I can guess where on my  left-hand driven car that actually might be...

 

Kind regards,

Christian

 

Edit: AHAAA again, just saw RicardoM editied in an picture where that IS.. Woohoo - Will see if that can be found to... Thx!!

Edited 4 January, 201610 yr by criiser

My lead was sold as ODB2 compliant and works fine with it, so yours might well be OK.

An OBD2 compliant scanner / interface / 'lead' / 'cable' may 'speak' the communication protocols - ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230 (KWP2000) - used by VAG cars (Felicia in our case). But I was referring to the software used to display scanned data. An OBD2 software will only display very few generic data and error codes from Felicia's ECU, while VAG-COM 409 from RossTech knows specific error codes and specific live data acquiring methods.

An OBD2 compliant scanner / interface / 'lead' / 'cable' may 'speak' the communication protocols - ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230 (KWP2000) - used by VAG cars (Felicia in our case). But I was referring to the software used to display scanned data. An OBD2 software will only display very few generic data and error codes from Felicia's ECU, while VAG-COM 409 from RossTech knows specific error codes and specific live data acquiring methods.

 

Ah my mistake, sorry.  

 

Edit: AHAAA again, just saw RicardoM editied in an picture where that IS.. Woohoo - Will see if that can be found to...   Thx!!

 

Ricardo's picture is clearer than anything I could take, just take a torch and stick your head under the dash and I'm sure you'll find it

Edited 4 January, 201610 yr by areed

Crap. Now the parts are here and I'm nowhere close to getting the stubborn car in the garage.... :( Sunday I hope!..

Then show us the white stuff around your house that you call 'snow'. I'm boiling in here

As requested. Quick picture outside of the current status of the car embedded in the cold white stuff...

Very refreshing. A dark green 2000 Felicia sleeping under the snow in the idylic landscape of Saltsjö-Boo, Sweden, 17 km from Stockholm.

 

But wait a minute... Does your car have a 11,941 total mileage??

That is affirmative! - Little/much ?! :-D

 

Br, C

- Little/much ?! :

 

She's brand new. Problem is I need to find a good reason for a HGF at such low mileage. Was it neglect and/or poor maintenance ? Was it an unreported overheat event ? Was it a factory issue? Can you browse a little through entire car history for relevant clues?

Hmm, been second car to my friends wife. And she took care of it with proper services. However did not drive it for long periods.... iM thinking corrosion?! as you indicated early?

 

Anyways - WOOHOO - go the car INTO the garage - check

 

removed a LOT of screws and bolts safely - with patience - Curious on how you would remove the brake hose/rubber thinggy thats connected to the exaust and into the main break cylinder. (Pictures in the album) - never seen on of thoose before - and If i break it, could just replace with one "normal" clamp that you screw onto just like the hoses @ thermostat?

 

Steps before going onto the SuperBolts (holding the cylinder head):

 

Remove exaust connection. Added alot of 5-56 to the screws.

Remove mount for generator and the autotension thinggy for the belt. At that time also remove the 4 front nut:s 11,12,13 and 14. 

 

After that remove the rocker and the push rods.

 

Then remove the remaining Bolts for the head...

 

My plan atleast...

 

Current stuff I broke:

1 pcs plastic cable holder holding the cable ontop of the injectors. :(

 

Br, Christian

She's brand new. Problem is I need to find a good reason for a HGF at such low mileage. Was it neglect and/or poor maintenance ? Was it an unreported overheat event ? Was it a factory issue? Can you browse a little through entire car history for relevant clues?

It will be corrosion of the head due to the antifreeze reaction on the gasket I would imagine.I'm sure somewhere we have the skoda paperwork that explained why the gaskets were not compatible with the antifreeze.

The temac gaskets fixed it i wouldn't fit anything else even when I was stage rallying one (120bhp)

Curious on how you would remove the brake hose/rubber thinggy thats connected to the exaust and into the main break cylinder. (Pictures in the album) - never seen on of thoose before - and If i break it, could just replace with one "normal" clamp that you screw onto just like the hoses @ thermostat?

 

When I did mine, I was able to just carefully wiggle the hose free.  I removed the strange clamp on the end and replaced it with a Jubilee clip when I refitted it, this seems to be holding ok at the moment!  Also it connects to the inlet manifold, not the exhaust.

Hmm, been second car to my friends wife. And she took care of it with proper services. However did not drive it for long periods.... iM thinking corrosion?! as you indicated early?

Most probably. Or a HG minute crack from factory. We will know for sure if you 'read' the HG after careful removal. It is vital to have proof for what happened. If there is no corrosion on HG and/or head, and no HG crack around oil passage, the head needs a close inspection for cracks or around core plugs.

 

Anyways - WOOHOO - go the car INTO the garage - check

She's good know. You're good now :clap:

 

Curious on how you would remove the brake hose/rubber thinggy thats connected to the exaust and into the main break cylinder.

I think the hose goes from intake manifold to brake booster, not master cylinder. The hose is usually a straight  pull, but now it might be stuck from age, cold, etc. So you need some WD40, some twist, maybe hot water. The hose elbow is very hard to find. You might get away with it by removing only the hose plug from the brake booster side. Same 'persuasion' needed. Don't use any sharp tool.

 

Steps before going onto the SuperBolts (holding the cylinder head):

...

After that remove the rocker and the push rods.

Then remove the remaining Bolts for the head...

No. You must remove all head bolts in reverse installation order from bolt 10 to bolt 1.

Edited 23 January, 201610 yr by RicardoM

Aha - so just loosen them in reveser order... GEntly and NOT care about the separate ones for the rockers... JUst treat the rocker bolts as if the rocker did not exist... CHECK...

 

So - The hose came of.. WIGGLE pull AND gently.. Poof. 

 

Also got the generator out of the way and now is looking at the generator holder that REALLY does not want to move at all :( so I can remove the brackets attached to the head (Both the one for generator and the one for ignition bridge..) Looking at it dumb fooled 4 a while.

 

BUT the good news is that I did not break anything more @ this time. AND the exaust is free. While under the car - snapped ANOTHER pic of the gearbox.. LOOKS bad too :( THAT has 4 now come down in priority -however-

 

How do I remove or push against the radiator the generator bracket.. :(

 

About the milage - 119 544 Km - That is not BRAND new imho.. Aprox 8000 km / year since its an 2000 one? Is that low milage in your eyes?

 

Br, C

Edited 23 January, 201610 yr by criiser

Also got the generator out of the way and now is looking at the generator holder that REALLY does not want to move at all :( so I can remove the brackets attached to the head (Both the one for generator and the one for ignition bridge..) Looking at it dumb fooled 4 a while.

 

I did this by removing two hard-to-see bolts/nuts lower down, then moving the mount forwards by putting a spanner on the belt tensioner (black cylinder on the right). Wedging it back a bit with a block of wood will then keep it out of the way for removal/refitting of the head.  Ricardo may well know a better way for doing this, though.

Areed! That worked out SUPER - TADA.. NOW im about to remove the bolts in reverse order and remove the ENTIRE shabam!

 

/C

I did this by removing two hard-to-see bolts/nuts lower down, then moving the mount forwards by putting a spanner on the belt tensioner (black cylinder on the right). Wedging it back a bit with a block of wood will then keep it out of the way for removal/refitting of the head.  Ricardo may well know a better way for doing this, though.

There's more than one way to skin a cat. The best method is the one that suits you the most. If nothing gets broken, nobody gets injured, and it takes a reasonable amount of time, go for it.

 

NOW im about to remove the bolts in reverse order and remove the ENTIRE shabam!

Go steady and even on bolts. Don't shock them to unscrew.

Waiting for sharp, well lit photos of the head, HG, block.

So - They are all loose now Did 1-3 degrees on all of them in proper reverse rotation. Then 45degrees och everyone. another 45degrees - Boldy to 90degrees. did 180degrees and now all of them are loose.

 

Cant find any order to remove the rocker-arm screws. so will aply same reason to them as the rest. Outside 5degrees other outside middle.. and repeat

 

Sooo. All will come loose... Looking forward to that....

 

/C

Good job so far. No snapped bolts