Got some vogtland 40mm springs and dampers

Also got a pair of Meyle top mounts

Is there anything I should be pre warned about or is it just a simple unbolt, bolt back on?

Any tips, tricks, advise appreciated.

Any who who has done it, if you Remeber what tools you needed I would be glad to hear it, I'm doing it in a wood storage shed at my mates work so need to take one tools from my house.

You will need spring compressors, and get the 3-leg type, not the 2 leg, and may well find that the front damper tubes are effectively seized in the uprights, so expect to need PlusGas, a large bench vice and a big fvck-off (technical term) Stilson to dismantle the fronts.

Hub spreader is a very useful tool to open up the hub and get the damper out.

Edited 3 January, 201610 yr by Tech1e

Hub spreader is a very useful tool to open up the hub and get the damper out.

So they're push-in rather than screw-in as #2 assumed then?

I'm sure the spring and damper comes out as one when you disconnect the 3 top mount bolts and then all the things connected to the bottom.

Had to do the wheel bearing on my 1.4TDI Fabia and we did that and took the whole strut and hub to a garage because we didn't have some spreader tool.

Yes there are two ways of removing the strut:

 

Use a spreader tool to ‘pop’ the strut out of the hub, or remove the strut complete, which will require the callipers unbolting, ball joints to be split and CV joints pulled out.

 

A decent long pry bar can also be useful for pushing the bottom arms down.

So they're push-in rather than screw-in as #2 assumed then?

The damper slots into the hub and has a single pinch bolt.

I'm sure the spring and damper comes out as one when you disconnect the 3 top mount bolts and then all the things connected to the bottom.

Had to do the wheel bearing on my 1.4TDI Fabia and we did that and took the whole strut and hub to a garage because we didn't have some spreader tool.

True, you can take the whole leg out, still have to get the hub off the damper though. And if you seperate the damper and hub on car you can leave the majority of the components still,on the car.

If you don't have a hub spreader like me you can use a screwdriver to open the hub then keep it open with a medium sized Allen key, which can also be rotated onto onto the points to open it up a bit further.

Passenger front is easy as it's the side with the longer drive shaft so the hub can be pulled down. Driver side I think you have to undo the ball joint.

So what's the quickest and easiest method guys?

So what's the quickest and easiest method guys?

Don't take hub off, just do pinch bolt and top mount

If you haven't got a air gun or a proper battery powered gun I would suggest popping to a local garage and getting them to loosen the strut top nut before you remove the struts.

Don't take hub off, just do pinch bolt and top mount

Without looking I don't know what you're on about.

What do I need to get this pinch bolt off?

Without looking I don't know what you're on about.

What do I need to get this pinch bolt off?

It's just a bolt. It just squeezes the hub together around the bottom of the strut.

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It's just a bolt. It just squeezes the hub together around the bottom of the strut.

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Nothing special then just take it off?

Is there anything difficult with the tears? No one has mentioned them.

Tears? If you are crying then maybe something is wrong?

Nothing special then just take it off?

Is there anything difficult with the tears? No one has mentioned them.

Actually it's a nut and bolt, but nothing special.

What did you try to type that turned into tears?

Oh the droplinks are made of chocolate, expect to replace one or both. I also sheared one of the ball joint studs off, so try to do this when motor factors are open in case you suddenly need extra bits.

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Nothing special then just take it off?

Is there anything difficult with the tears? No one has mentioned them.

Tears? Crying isn't good for a simple job like this :p

Rears? Dead easy.

Rears? Dead easy.

You got it buddy!

Rears are easier. Worth changing the bump stops at the same time.

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Just have to take the arch liners out to get to the top bolts.

Maybe a read through a Haynes manual might help you.

Maybe a read through a Haynes manual might help you.

Don't have one, and alright cheers tech, any special tools I'll need other than the usual

Rachet and sockets

Tourqes socket set

Breaker bar

Spanners 10 13 15 17 19 ( can't see it being other)

Jack

Axle stands

Anything else?

Also reassembly, any oil or grease to apply anywhere?

If you have gaps in your spanner collection, those will be the sizes you need. 16s and 18s quite often found around these cars. Can't remember specifically what's needed for these jobs though.

Oh, and buy the tool Tech1e suggested, under a fiver ISTR.

Edited 3 January, 201610 yr by Wino