Don't have one, and alright cheers tech, any special tools I'll need other than the usual

Rachet and sockets

Tourqes socket set

Breaker bar

Spanners 10 13 15 17 19 ( can't see it being other)

Jack

Axle stands

Anything else?

Also reassembly, any oil or grease to apply anywhere?

Pinch bolt is a spline head. Not sure on size. Ball joint splitter, spring compressors.

Maybe a read through a Haynes manual might help you.

Or take it to someone that knows what they are doing.........

Or take it to someone that knows what they are doing.........

:clap:

OP please please use a torque wrench and torque it, if you'd have ever driven a customers car when lower bolts come lose from them just nipping the bolts up you'll know

:clap:

OP please please use a torque wrench and torque it, if you'd have ever driven a customers car when lower bolts come lose from them just nipping the bolts up you'll know

Needs to be remembered here that the suspension is one of the vital parts that's keeping your car on the road,so as above please ensure its done properly!

In my opinion if you have to ask what to do on these components, let someone who knows what they're doing do the job or at least get them to watch over you as you do it. Torque all bolts etc, check balljoints for wear as lowering can tend to increase wear rates, most importantly remember your suspension and brakes are only ever as good as the tyres you have fitted.

Or take it to someone that knows what they are doing.........

Tbf this is the correct answer

The damper slots into the hub and has a single pinch bolt.

Cheers, that's what I meant, so I agree the spreader, and the Stilson is not required after all.

When I get my hands dirty and take the wheel off ill be able I see what I have to do.

In asking just to be better prepared, is that not what briskoda is for?

When I get my hands dirty and take the wheel off ill be able I see what I have to do.

In asking just to be better prepared, is that not what briskoda is for?

Look at it like this. You say you want to prep but then you say once you're looking at it you'll know what to do and you're going to do it without a Haynes manual or ERWIN download. Those are contradictory positions.

I think people are concerned you're getting yourself into a situation that you possibly don't need to, or that you may create problems for yourself that will make the job harder and more expensive than it needs to be.

I don't know the background of half the posters in this thread, but Tech1e was/is Master Tech qualified on VW, Skoda and SEAT. He was effectively the first person to do most of the mods we now think of as standard including Eibach/FSD suspension upgrades, 312mm brakes etc. and he was one of the people who set up Unit 18 and he built the original vRS estate among many other pretty special things so when people of that calibre make helpful suggestions, they're probably worth listening to.

Getting a gentle ribbing about tears is a sign of how friendly Briskoda is. On Pistonheads or the TT Forums they'd have ripped you to shreds instead of trying to be helpful.

Look at it like this. You say you want to prep but then you say once you're looking at it you'll know what to do and you're going to do it without a Haynes manual or ERWIN download. Those are contradictory positions.

I think people are concerned you're getting yourself into a situation that you possibly don't need to, or that you may create problems for yourself that will make the job harder and more expensive than it needs to be.

I don't know the background of half the posters in this thread, but Tech1e was/is Master Tech qualified on VW, Skoda and SEAT. He was effectively the first person to do most of the mods we now think of as standard including Eibach/FSD suspension upgrades, 312mm brakes etc. and he was one of the people who set up Unit 18 and he built the original vRS estate among many other pretty special things so when people of that calibre make helpful suggestions, they're probably worth listening to.

Getting a gentle ribbing about tears is a sign of how friendly Briskoda is. On Pistonheads or the TT Forums they'd have ripped you to shreds instead of trying to be helpful.

I'm doing it with two of my mates who have more experience than me and have done a lot to their cars, I just don't want to stand back and let them do it.

I'm taking everything people are saying into account. I have a torque wrench which I will now be taking along with the figures which I'll find out. I'll go pick up that took tech1 suggested being as its under £10 so I may as well make it easier as he says.

E/ I've already bought new top mounts to replace at the same time as someone suggested as well

So far listening to briskoda has saved me slot of time and money. Last week I fixed the wire on the starter motor solenoid which had snapped, for free and only took about 40 minutes! I also did the brake light switch sensor on my old 1.4tdi using a step by step guide on here, otherwise a grave wanted nearly £200 apparently, it only took my an hour or so and the part cost a few pounds! Friday I fixed the leak in my door with help from here and a YouTube video, again for free.

I do listen to people on here, most of which have more knowledge and experience than myself.

Edited 4 January, 201610 yr by AdamOP94

This site might be useful: www.workshop-manuals.com

Every couple of screens you have to kill a 'donate?' pop-up, but the info is generally handy for torque settings etc.

 

Here's the start page for front strut, keep clicking next down in the bottom right hand corner to scroll through.

There's a similar set of pages for the rear set up, starting here .

I looked up some torque settings for you Adam.

 

Front Suspension

12-point driveshaft nut (use new nut).

Stage1:  50Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 45 degrees

 

Balljoint to lower arm bolts:

Stage1: 20Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 90 degrees

 

Strut pinch bolt:

Stage1: 60Nm

Stage2: Further tighten 90 degrees

 

Strut piston rod nut:

60 Nm

 

Strut top mount to body:

Stage1: 15Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 90 degrees

 

Rear Suspension

Damper lower mounting nut and bolt:

Stage1: 40Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 90 degrees

 

Damper upper mounting to body:

Stage1: 30Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 90 degrees

 

Damper rod top nut to bracket:

25Nm

 

I looked up some torque settings for you Adam.

Front Suspension

12-point driveshaft nut (use new nut).

Stage1: 50Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 45 degrees

Balljoint to lower arm bolts:

Stage1: 20Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 90 degrees

Strut pinch bolt:

Stage1: 60Nm

Stage2: Further tighten 90 degrees

Strut piston rod nut:

60 Nm

Strut top mount to body:

Stage1: 15Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 90 degrees

Rear Suspension

Damper lower mounting nut and bolt:

Stage1: 40Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 90 degrees

Damper upper mounting to body:

Stage1: 30Nm

Stage2: Tighten further 90 degrees

Damper rod top nut to bracket:

25Nm

Real helpful of you man I appreciate that.

^ You're welcome

great guide here. Not that you need to do it like this but it is a good walkthrough

http://www.seat-ibiza-mk4.co.uk/ibiza_front_shock_absorber_change.ht

 

I think the fabia should be the same right?

 

if you get a spark plug socket piece (forgotten what size) that can fit a spanner around the strut top nut then you can get an allen key with vice grips or allen bit through the centre to get the top nut off the strut. otherwise the piston will just spin

 

like already mentioned an impact wrench is the other option.

 

hub may need a fair amount of hammering to get off even once it's spread. keep hitting it around all sides as long as your not killing it or any gubbins!

 

If i was doing it again i'd get better spring compressors. the dual hook cheapo ebay ones i used were a pain in the ass for access and required some modification to not scratch the paint off my new springs

 

rears are super easy

Edited 5 January, 201610 yr by corndog

great guide here. Not that you need to do it like this but it is a good walkthrough

http://www.seat-ibiza-mk4.co.uk/ibiza_front_shock_absorber_change.ht

I think the fabia should be the same right?

if you get a spark plug socket piece (forgotten what size) that can fit a spanner around the strut top nut then you can get an allen key with vice grips or allen bit through the centre to get the top nut off the strut. otherwise the piston will just spin

like already mentioned an impact wrench is the other option.

hub may need a fair amount of hammering to get off even once it's spread. keep hitting it around all sides as long as your not killing it or any gubbins!

If i was doing it again i'd get better spring compressors. the dual hook cheapo ebay ones i used were a pain in the ass for access and required some modification to not scratch the paint off my new springs

rears are super easy

Cheers mate, and I do have those cheap 2 claw ones haha, 3 of then in fact.

Did I miss something or are you on about the other method, I thought i was alright to take it off as a strut with the Spring on, and the new springs and dampers are already assembled as well

Cheers mate, and I do have those cheap 2 claw ones haha, 3 of then in fact.

Did I miss something or are you on about the other method, I thought i was alright to take it off as a strut with the Spring on, and the new springs and dampers are already assembled as well

Ok, I'm now not sure you need compressors at all, or indeed new top balls. However, if you do need to use the compressors, use all 3 at 120degree spacing, and do them up and down half a turn at a time.

Did I miss something or are you on about the other method, I thought i was alright to take it off as a strut with the Spring on, and the new springs and dampers are already assembled as well

No your strut will need building up,you need to remove your top mount and fit to the new set up.

So you will need to compress your standard springs to remove the top mount,and if your lowered springs are 'progressive' you will need to compress them to get the top mount on.

Cheers mate, and I do have those cheap 2 claw ones haha, 3 of then in fact.

Did I miss something or are you on about the other method, I thought i was alright to take it off as a strut with the Spring on, and the new springs and dampers are already assembled as well

They are assembled? Have you bought second hand?

They are assembled? Have you bought second hand?

Maybe they're not I haven't got them yet.

Brand new, my mate said they will probably come Assembled I guess not.

I very much doubt they will be assembled.

They are not likely to ship a spring and damper unit that is compressed for safety reasons.

Edited 5 January, 201610 yr by Tech1e

Maybe they're not I haven't got them yet.

Brand new, my mate said they will probably come Assembled I guess not.

 

 

I very much doubt they will be assembled.

They are not likely to ship a spring and damper unit that is compressed for safety reasons.

Isnt "my mate said..." usually about the same as "...never happens"?

Brand new, my mate said they will probably come Assembled I guess not.

If this is your m8 that's meant to be helping you and 'knows' what he's doing I would doubt his ability to do the job if I was you!

If this is your m8 that's meant to be helping you and 'knows' what he's doing I would doubt his ability to do the job if I was you!

Hahaha fair point guys but he has done a lot to his car, when he modded his first car he literally did everything himself, including all interior and bodywork, refurbed the wheels etc not just throwing on come lowering springs.

Tbf in this weather I really am not feeling it, anyone know what kind of price it would cost to get it done at a garage?

If it goes to plan it's not much of a job for a garage,I would say £60-80 cash job