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SKODA OCTAVIA 1.6TDI 105 SE CR 4X4 ESTATE

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Can anyone share with me experiences of owning SKODA OCTAVIA 1.6TDI 105 SE CR 4X4 ESTATE, 2011

I am thinking of buying one with 100k - I have owned an Octavia II L&K 2.0 PDfor nearly 3 years and that needed a DM flywheel and clutch at 127K.

I was wondering if the 1.6 was harder or easier on Flywheels, assuming they are probably very similar - or are they SMF ???

thanks in advance

It's a DMF.

 

In my opinion the life of the DMF is more related to the driver than the engine or gearbox it is fitted to.

 

Those with experience of a failing DMF or those with more mechanical sympathy tend to get more life out of them.

 

Not loading the engine (low RPM, hard acceleration) or labouring the engine (not changing down early enough) will go a long way to ensuring the DMF lasts longer.

 

Unfortunately the gear change recommendation on the dash which is geared for fuel economy rather than mechanical longevity will kill a DMF pretty quickly if it is followed, also company car drivers, lease car drivers or anyone else who has no interest in ensuring the car lasts longer than 3 years won't care how the DMF is treated.

 

A well cared for DMF can easily last to 200,000+ miles, the issue with your potential purchase is you don't know how it has been driven for the last 100,000 miles.

 

It should be easy to spot a worn DMF on the test drive though, as mentioned above try accelerating from a low speed in a too high gear, if the car judders or you experience something similar to clutch slip then the DMF is goosed.

  • Author

The DMF was replaced in my Octavia II 2.0 PD nearly 70K ago, now 195K on original turbo, been whistling since I bought it nearly three years ago, I am thinking of replacing the turbo cassette but not seen any reports on doing that, I was getting the standard limp on acceleration onto the motorway, gave it an 'Italian tune-up' 4,200rpm for 15 mins and its transformed, no cloud of soot when I accelerate hard, much more responsive but still whistling.  Planning to keep the Octavia for my son as I have done a fair bit to it and its just a nice place to be, L&K with all the toys.

I have a Scout with 137k and, under moderate acceleration, there's a hard to describe 'grumbling' noise. No juddering and no issues with clutch slip etc. I'm thinking it's probably the DMF on its way out?

  • 2 months later...
  • Author

I have a Scout with 137k and, under moderate acceleration, there's a hard to describe 'grumbling' noise. No juddering and no issues with clutch slip etc. I'm thinking it's probably the DMF on its way out?

Hello Britbusdriver

I have exactly the same noise with my Octavia 4x4, reading posts and talking to dealers, it would point to rear cardon joint on propshaft, I have bought both front & rear joints and will post how tricky this is to replace, manual suggests you put everything back as marked on the original, then test drive and if vibration still occurs, rotate the joint one hole and again if it does it still - what they fail to mention is you have to remove the exhaust system and heat sheilds each time you do this making it possibly 3 times the work !  There are companies that will balance the whole assembly - I will explore the cost of this route.  Flexible connectors were obtained from Carparts4less £89 for large one £39 for small, Stealer quoted £340 for large flexi and they said they ahd fitted quite a lot to Yetis, but they seemed to have sorted them out now - balanaced perhaps.

Edited by AudiPhile300

perhaps the most important @100+ K  is the haldex service  if no proof I would walk unless  its a daft price

My problems started after I had the Haldex serviced...hopefully a coincidence

Hello Britbusdriver

I have exactly the same noise with my Octavia 4x4, reading posts and talking to dealers, it would point to rear cardon joint on propshaft, I have bought both front & rear joints and will post how tricky this is to replace, manual suggests you put everything back as marked on the original, then test drive and if vibration still occurs, rotate the joint one hole and again if it does it still - what they fail to mention is you have to remove the exhaust system and heat sheilds each time you do this making it possibly 3 times the work ! There are companies that will balance the whole assembly - I will explore the cost of this route. Flexible connectors were obtained from Carparts4less £89 for large one £39 for small, Stealer quoted £340 for large flexi and they said they ahd fitted quite a lot to Yetis, but they seemed to have sorted them out now - balanaced perhaps.

Thanks - be interested to hear the results. Mine's due a service so will be getting it looked at in a week or so.

  • Author

Thankfully my Haldex unit has had the oil changed every 40K at the dealership from new

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