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PD 150 Head Bolts

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Ok today is the day...

 

Ive read 2 ways that people do this

 

60nm + 90 deg + 90 deg

 

90nm + 90 deg

 

 

And also doing one by one, do i do all to 90nm for example then all 90 deg, or do i do one by one 90nm + 90 deg, or the 60nm way :P

When i did mine i did one at a time (loosen one off, clean out thread, put new bolt in, tighten to 60nm then 2x 90 degrees then move onto next bolt)

My car appears to be running fine after the mod so im assuming the info i found on here was correct

Andy

  • Author

cheers

Top one is official way.  I don't think 90Nm is the same as 60Nm + 90 degrees.

I have read in the manual for 1.2 fabia that it shall be 30 Nm and 90 deg. + 90 deg. 

 

 For engine with engine identification characters

AZQ, BME           AWY?

Continued for all engines

1. Pre-tighten with torque wrench:

Step I = 30 Nm

2. Tighten further with a rigid wrench:

Stage II = 1/4 turn (90°)

Stage III = 1/4 turn (90°)

Further installation occurs in reverse order. Pay attention

to the following:

Carefully crank engine at least 2 revolutions to ensure

that no valve touches the piston when the engine. 

Different for the 1.9 diesel PD engiens though.

I have read in the manual for 1.2 fabia that it shall be 30 Nm and 90 deg. + 90 deg. 

 

 For engine with engine identification characters

AZQ, BME           AWY?

Continued for all engines

1. Pre-tighten with torque wrench:

Step I = 30 Nm

2. Tighten further with a rigid wrench:

Stage II = 1/4 turn (90°)

Stage III = 1/4 turn (90°)

Further installation occurs in reverse order. Pay attention

to the following:

Carefully crank engine at least 2 revolutions to ensure

that no valve touches the piston when the engine. 

 

Yes - You are right.  But this is discussing the 1.9 ASZ engine though. :)

Im sure most people will agree, you'll find that the last 90degrees is very tight anyway, so i wouldnt worry about head lift or anything after that. if yours feel slack or not "very tight" then youve done it wrong!

yeah the last 90 was horrible! thought I was going to snap my breaker bar off

  • Author

Ok guys just started this, how on earth do you get the rocker cover past the inlet manifold??

wobble, bend, twist, angle, crowbar, fire, whatevers at hand.

Yeah a bit of jiggery pokery and mine came out. Put up a fight though.

Getting it back in can be achieved with a swift bang with a closed fist

Oh if you have a blt engine then you may have to take off thr egr/ anti shudder too

  • Author

Its asz, ive done it :P

 

 - I had a lot of oil in the back right bolt hole, enough for it to weep out over flowing. Is this a issue?

Its asz, ive done it :p

 

 - I had a lot of oil in the back right bolt hole, enough for it to weep out over flowing. Is this a issue?

 

No, although you should always mop out the bolt holes before fitting the new bolts for future reference.

I sucked the pools of oil out using a rubber tube and a vacuum just to make sure any excess oil wouldn't block the thread and make it torque up wrong

 

wouldn't recommend using your household hoover for this though ;)

It could be a leak. Is there oil all down the back

of the block and on undertray or wishbone? My rocker cover was leaking there.

You can get a replacement gasket for <£20

That didn't work for me I needed a replacement rocker cover.

Its asz, ive done it :p

 

 - I had a lot of oil in the back right bolt hole, enough for it to weep out over flowing. Is this a issue?

 

Head bolt or rocker bolt?

  • Author

Head bolts, most where dry ish, two center fronts and back right where **** wet with oil, i didnt mop out tho :( i didnt know to do that ....

 

But yes also i have have changed the gasket, and yes that was leaking also down the back :P

Nothing you can do now, but idealy they should be cleaned out.

you can smash the bottom of the block by "hydrolicing" on the oil as they tighten down as oil doesnt compress well (im sure youve seen what it does to conrods etc)

also they wont be torqued correctly now, i can guarantee it.

  • Author

Nothing you can do now, but idealy they should be cleaned out.

you can smash the bottom of the block by "hydrolicing" on the oil as they tighten down as oil doesnt compress well (im sure youve seen what it does to conrods etc)

also they wont be torqued correctly now, i can guarantee it.

ok so any symptoms i should be aware of going forward?

ok so any symptoms i should be aware of going forward?

 

You'll probably get away with it, but if you have to do it again always mop out the bolt holes and lightly lube the threads and heads of the new bolts with some clean engine oil to make tightening accurate, consistent and quiet.

  • Author

You'll probably get away with it, but if you have to do it again always mop out the bolt holes and lightly lube the threads and heads of the new bolts with some clean engine oil to make tightening accurate, consistent and quiet.

I did lube with moly slip tho ...

I did lube with moly slip tho ...

 

Top man, now you're torquing.  :p

  • Author

Car is now sounding loud on idle :( 

 

I may have over tightened on the two on the left....

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