Hi guys,

I'm having a nightmare with my 2.0d 150 DSG L&K.

Problem being that there's been a grumbling noise coming from the engine when idle. It's been into the dealers 4 times in the last 12 weeks. It's been repaired 3 times, which have always been heats pipes of some sort touching each other.

On the 4th occasion they couldn't hear anything? So I have now contacted the MD of Skoda UK and got other people involved. I have actually filmed the noise and posted the vids on YouTube. Links below.

I would appreciate it if people could view the videos and give me their thoughts on the noise.

I'm trying to go down the route of getting a new car as this one has not been right from day 1.

Many Thanks

https://youtu.be/RahuLo_qKa4

https://youtu.be/yKa9I631f6Y

https://youtu.be/IqGVCLw6AZw

https://youtu.be/Ape-WhrcDCY

https://youtu.be/vYtyOQiwjG8

Well there is definitely a change in the engine tone so you're not imagining things. Is there any noticeble vibration in the car when this is occuring or is it only the engine sound that is affected?

Bearings on the cooling fan?

There's also vibration coming from the car when the car is in gear and idle.

I haven't a clue what it could be but like I say it's been into Skoda Derby and Rainworth. Infact Skoda Assistance came to view the car and the guy said "bloody hell it sounds awful"

I had something similar with a mark3 Vectra and it turned out to be worn engine mounts. But that car had nearly 100k on it.

 

I really don't know what it is on such a new car, could be cylinders misfiring or a timing belt issue?

Yes I can definitely hear noise. I went down similar route long time ago in getting a replacement caravan under section ?? of goods not fit for purpose act and I did get a new one but it took a while. You will need to return the car now to a dealer and get a receipt and then write to Skoda specifically to say you are rejecting it under the act and wish to have a replacement. If you carry on with it then the law assumes you have accepted it. Hope this helps.

It's really difficult to pick out any abnormal noises via a mobile phone recording, via YouTube, via my laptop speakers.

 

I can hear a change when the car is put in to and out of park, but it's almost impossible to determine if that's abnormal or not. 

 

The only constructive thing you can do is keep pushing for people to listen to the problem and acknowledge there is still an issue, keep escalating the issue until something gets done. Does the Skoda Assist chap's written report reflect his verbal comment? If so, there is good evidence of a problem right there. 

 

The source of the noise could be one of about 100 different things. Could be something buried deep inside the dash near the firewall. That'll be a pig to find and even worse to repair. 

I agree it very difficult to pick up the noise with a phone. I have had a listen back through good headphones and through the canton system on the car and you can clearly hear the aggressive engines noises.

Skoda UK are a waste of time and basically go on what VW Finance say.

I'm really fed up up with it all to be honest.....

I know exactly how you feel. It may be time to reject the car. I had a Vauxhall astra that after 10000 miles had a new gearbox,clutch and fly wheel. Then it still made the noise. No detriment to the drive but sounded awful. Only way to stop it was to depress clutch slightly, put it in gear or move gearstick slightly to one gear. Loud vibrating,knocking noise from gearbox area. Never did find out what it was. Vauxhall gave the good old " it must be a characteristic of the car. From the research I did I came to the conclusion that it was something to do with the crankshaft or the bearings. I do know that the garages have a special stethoscope type piece of equipment to locate noises. Good luck with it but mine made owning the car a nightmare for 2 years.

I agree it very difficult to pick up the noise with a phone. I have had a listen back through good headphones and through the canton system on the car and you can clearly hear the aggressive engines noises.

Skoda UK are a waste of time and basically go on what VW Finance say.

I'm really fed up up with it all to be honest.....

 

It sounds like it's time to start considering rejecting the car, in favour of an identical replacement vehicle. You're more likely to get a replacement if you go down the rejection route

Sounds like an NVH issue rather than a mechanical problem. I hope you get it resolved.

As above, time to reject the vehicle. If the car is owned by VWFS you'll need to reject through them. You've given them ample opportunity to resolve the issue.

21-01-16 Update

I have been arguing with the executive who deals with all of affairs of the MD of Skoda. I sent him the video links and he said he heard the odd noises. He then said the technical team seem to think they're normal?

After a lengthy 1 hour phone, the conclusion was that Skoda UK will not do anything apart from assisting VW finance. What a disagree.

I then had a lengthy chat with VW who said that we need a technician from Skoda to confirm the odd noises. I emmeditaly drove the car into Derby who were very helpful. I went out with the Technician, but first i showed him the videos. He said that doesn't sound right. We then went for a 5 minute drive. Guess what??? He only heard the noise on several occasions and confirmed it was not normal but abnormal!!!!

I then rand VW back and told them to ring Derby to confirm the technicians report etc.

I've just had a phone call back from VW. Guess what??? I have to take the car into Derby this time for investigation.

So to confirm this would be the 4th time into a workshop. Not great for a 32K car. I knew I just have gone with my gut instinct and not taken the plunge with the new Superb.

Not so Superb.

Noting but trouble so far. No enjoyment in driving it what so ever. I have been so stressed that I have Alopcia which means I have a round ball patch in my beard due to stress.

I hope no one goes through what I have since October 2015

I would just reject the car mate. I had a VW caravelle a few years ago that blew the crankshaft oil seal twice. After it happened the second time the dealer agreed that there must be something wrong for it to happen twice in 3k and swapped it for the next model up. No hassle, no cost to me just 8k better specified car.

You will need that report from the dealer though that says there is something wrong with it and if the're not helpful get a letter from a solicitor stating you'd like to reject it.

You're only problem is if it really is just a rattle, they may argue that it's within tolerances and nothing to worry about.

Thanks to everyone who has responded so far.

I requested a rejection after the 3rd repair and I was told I can't because the problem has been solved. I have got the Financial Obnunsman involved now.

I understand it is only a rattle but it's been rattling from day 1. The general feel of the car is not right, and completey different to the one I test drove. When I first got the car I did put a post on here saying how loud the engine was and how the car vibrates. I would also understand if it was a second hand car but it's brandnew and the main reason I went for a brandnew one because I wanted to be the first driver and owner of it.

22-01-16

My car has been in Derby Skoda all day. I had a phone call at 5pm to confirm they found the problem. The cars got a faulty N75 Solanoid Valve? I haven't a clue what one is but I did google it. Apparently VW Cars do get this fault but later on in life.

The part takes 3 days to order and 1 day to fit.

So 4 repairs so far

Repair 1 Nov 15 Derby Skoda (2 days) - Brake Pipes touching hence engine noise

Repair 2 Dec 15 Rainworth Skoda (3 days) - Heat Pipes touching hence engine noise

Repair 3 Dec 15 Rainworth Skoda (3 days) - Air con pipes and lower pipes touching hence engine noise

Jan 15 Rainworth Skoda (3 days)- Service manager and Head tech test drove the car and found no fault.

Repair 4 Jan 16 Derby Skoda (Probablly 4 days) - Faulty N75 valve hence engine noise

I'm really loving my Superb..................

N75 is the wastegate regulating valve. It controls the level of boost produced by the turbocharger. 

 

I wonder if this is a case of 'clutching at straws'? I can't see how changing the N75 valve would cure a noisy engine. 

 

I hope i'm totally wrong, and that this will cure your nightmare once and for all. Fingers crossed......

Edited 22 January, 201610 yr by dstev2000

N75 is the wastegate regulating valve. It controls the level of boost produced by the turbocharger.

I wonder if this is a case of 'clutching at straws'? I can't see how changing the N75 valve would cure a noisy engine.

I hope i'm totally wrong, and that this will cure your nightmare once and for all. Fingers crossed......

God Knows!!! I have read up on some forums that Audis had a few problems with them.

I just hope it's fixed once and for all

I would just take it to the dealership, park it up and give them the keys. I'd then phone VW financial services and tell them I'm cancelling the direct debit and contacting my solicitor to formally reject the car.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I hope this helps to explain what the N75 Solenoid Valve is.

I hope this helps to explain what the N75 Solenoid Valve is. N75 Wastegate Bypass Regulator Valve.jpg

Thanks for the diagram. I still can't figure out how the N75 can cause engine noise and vibration???

Having watched your video's, most of us would have spotted the "Hunting" of the engine RPM, as this is linked directly to the Turbo, I am assuming that this is the cause of the increase and decrease of the engine speed.

A "No-Flow State" exists during idle, when there is no boost and the Waste Gate is held shut by the spring in its actuator (Pressure Unit). 

When you step on the accelerator, boost builds up, and so does the pressure in the green bottom port of Figure 2. This also pressurizes the gray outlet of N75 leading to the actuator (Pressure Unit) in Figure 1. Once the air pressure in that actuator overcomes the spring pressure, the Waste Gate opens and allows some of the exhaust gases to bypass the turbine wheel. However, this action alone would open the Waste gate at lower boost pressures than are desirable. Here's where N75 comes in.

Notice the Restrictor in Figure 2. It allows only a small amount of air to enter from the green port below. As a, result the pressure above the Restrictor (that goes to the Waste Gate actuator) can be regulated by bleeding off controlled amounts of air through the left side purple port of N75. The bleed-off rate is controlled by how far the electric coil pulls up its central plunger, allowing air to escape under the blue cap at its bottom. That pull-up distance is precisely controlled by a pulse width modulated signal from the ECU. To achieve the intended results, N75 is factory calibrated by a screw above the plunger that sets the proper spring pressure of a spring between the plunger and the blue cap.

It's easy to see that one might get a little more boost by turning the calibration screw up a bit, thus increasing the bleed-off rate and reducing the pressure to the Waste Gate actuator. But wait, if the ECU finds the boost higher than expects, it will modify its signal to N75 to correct the situation within limits. If those limits are exceeded, surging will set in, particularly under part load.

 

I'm no expert in this type of issue, with the new state of the art motor vehicles, as I deal with High Voltage (1 Meg) Generator sets, I hope this information goes someway to help to explain what is causing the noise you are hearing, my initial thoughts on watching your video was the sort of popping sound, which led me to think that it was air venting type noise.

 

I easily found the information above on the internet, great source of information.

Edited 22 January, 201610 yr by roughrider10