Skip to content

How does my cambelt look?

Featured Replies

20160131_140802_2.jpg

Due to be changed in 20000km (last changed 110k, now 170k), but 1.5 years overdue.

Conscious there is a big money in cambelts so sceptical as to whether it needs to be changed.

Thanks for any advice.

Jeez, the kevlar has started to delaminate on that, get it changed, something has contaminated that at some time like a water leak or possibly thats been sat parked up unused for some considerable time.

  • Sponsor

Will try to get a pic of the belts on mine for comparison, sometime today. Almost exactly 1 year and (guessing) 5k miles since genuine bits fitted.

I've got a vague memory of looking at them right after they were done, and them not looking very different to your photo.

 

@TeflonTom: which belt's appearance makes you say 'Jeez'; the inner or outer one?

Will try to get a pic of the belts on mine for comparison, sometime today. Almost exactly 1 year and (guessing) 5k miles since genuine bits fitted.

I've got a vague memory of looking at them right after they were done, and them not looking very different to your photo.

@TeflonTom: which belt's appearance makes you say 'Jeez'; the inner or outer one?

Outer (deforming)

Knowing the 1.4 16v and considering the ease of changing the belts I'd get them done.

  • Sponsor

Outer (deforming)

 

Is that you Tom?

  • Author

Will try to get a pic of the belts on mine for comparison, sometime today. Almost exactly 1 year and (guessing) 5k miles since genuine bits fitted.

I've got a vague memory of looking at them right after they were done, and them not looking very different to your photo.

 

@TeflonTom: which belt's appearance makes you say 'Jeez'; the inner or outer one?

Thank you for the impending photo

  • Author

Knowing the 1.4 16v and considering the ease of changing the belts I'd get them done.

Skills for knowing its a 16v from the photo. Is it something I would be able to do myself (have gone as far as replacing pads and disks before)?

Otherwise it'll be a $500nzd job from the garage I expect

Skills for knowing its a 16v from the photo. Is it something I would be able to do myself (have gone as far as replacing pads and disks before)?

Otherwise it'll be a $500nzd job from the garage I expect

The 16v is the only one with the twin belt set up.

  • Sponsor

Thank you for the impending photo

 

Here you go:

 

20160131_095654.jpg

 

20160131_095704.jpg

Not sure I see vast differences from your photo?

  • Author

Here you go:

 

20160131_095654.jpg

 

20160131_095704.jpg

Not sure I see vast differences from your photo?

Thanks, yours look a little newer but has the same finish. Thanks so much for the photos, really helpful.

I'll keep an eye on it for the moment.

  • Sponsor

You're welcome.

 

I was going to do the belts on that one, but then I happened to be talking to my friendly VW parts man and he mentioned a 'special offer' of cambelt for £300, or inc. waterpump for £350, fitted.

It was January, so not very nice outside (here!) and I just went for it.  Was a bit disappointed that they didn't change a bunch of bolts that their info says must be changed, but it's all been fine. :)

There are instructional videos on youtube which will give you an idea of the difficulty level.  Put in your engine code + cambelt as search terms, I guess.

Edited by Wino

Due to be changed in 20000km (last changed 110k, now 170k), but 1.5 years overdue.

Conscious there is a big money in cambelts so sceptical as to whether it needs to be changed.

Thanks for any advice.

 

I'd hope that you are also conscious there is big money in repairs if any of these bits that should get changed fail, not always the belt that fails initially. Cambelt change = cambelts and other bits change, maybe even the top small roller and the waterpump?

Edited by rum4mo

Here you go:

 

20160131_095654.jpg

 

20160131_095704.jpg

Not sure I see vast differences from your photo?

Tippex makes me cry.

I'd hope that you are also conscious there is big money in repairs if any of these bits that should get changed fail, not always the belt that fails initially. Cambelt change = cambelts and other bits change, maybe even the top small roller and the waterpump?

 

This is true but the cambelt(s) on a 1.4 16v petrol are far less stressed than on the PD engine, a visual inspection is of little use other than to determine if the belt has obvious damage or contamination, the recommended change interval is based on nothing other than stats generated from historical MTBF observations fed back from the dealer network.

I believe the 1.4 16v did not even have a belt change interval specified originally because the MTBF indicated that it would exceed the design life of the engine, this is in part because it is under so little stress due to the roller rocker followers and relatively soft valve springs. I would be relaxed about changing the belts if I were the OP since his look to be in good condition.

Tippex makes me cry.

 

Tippex makes the baby jesus cry, it's actually the mechanic subconsciously writing his IQ on the engine.

  • Sponsor

Tippex makes me cry.

Wasn't me, and I sincerely hope it wasn't the VW tech! :D

This is true but the cambelt(s) on a 1.4 16v petrol are far less stressed than on the PD engine, a visual inspection is of little use other than to determine if the belt has obvious damage or contamination, the recommended change interval is based on nothing other than stats generated from historical MTBF observations fed back from the dealer network.

I believe the 1.4 16v did not even have a belt change interval specified originally because the MTBF indicated that it would exceed the design life of the engine, this is in part because it is under so little stress due to the roller rocker followers and relatively soft valve springs. I would be relaxed about changing the belts if I were the OP since his look to be in good condition.

The belts are usually ok. However the plastic cased rollers aren't. Seen go knows how many break up and throw belts off over the years.

The belts are usually ok. However the plastic cased rollers aren't. Seen go knows how many break up and throw belts off over the years.

 

I agree, however it was all changed at 110k and only now on 170k so sticking to the mileage change interval rather than the age interval is a fair compromise if the whole lot is changed again in 30k as the OP suggests it will be.

To be quite honest, I think that when you post a "do you think it will be okay to leave it?" question, you the poster has already got nagging feelings about leaving this action for a while and you are just trying to get a better feeling by bouncing the question off others - no one other than you are going to be paying for any extra costs if it goes bad.

 

I'd always ask the question, "will you still own that car in 60/65K miles time?" if the answer is "probably not", then why not minimise the risk of having an unexpected bill by changing the kit now and getting the use out of it without worrying about what might happen if you didn't do it now.

To be quite honest, I think that when you post a "do you think it will be okay to leave it?" question, you the poster has already got nagging feelings about leaving this action for a while and you are just trying to get a better feeling by bouncing the question off others - no one other than you are going to be paying for any extra costs if it goes bad.

 

I'd always ask the question, "will you still own that car in 60/65K miles time?" if the answer is "probably not", then why not minimise the risk of having an unexpected bill by changing the kit now and getting the use out of it without worrying about what might happen if you didn't do it now.

 

This is called the precautionary principle and it requires no effort or reasoning, by his own admission the OP has no real mechanical understanding and would have to pay a garage to do the work, he's already said he intends to get the work done later so I think it's a question of dodging the bill for now which I judge he will get away with for the reasons I've already stated.

  • Author

I'll do some first hand research and let you know if it goes. I know the valves, rods and heads can get damaged if it goes, but hopefully I'll sell before then.

It would be interesting if there was a controlled long term test on cambelts in the harsh environments to see their life. I know many will say this is impossible because of the varying engine sizes, environmental differences etc but I'm sure it can be done (probably not at the want of mechanics/stealerships)

Not worth the pain if the belt is due, mine needs changing due to the time scale not mileage, due for change @ 190,000 but I've just clocked up 155,000 miles in the 4 years, I had a cambelt and water pump change after I bought it, there wasn't any paperwork to say it had been done this was at 115,000 miles, I was doing high mileage at one time about 15k but only managing 6k a year, she's 10 years old this year, so getting it booked in late February, Skoda are asking £399. It's gone up £100 in 4 years.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.