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Servicing - New sump plug?

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Do you need to replace the sump plug each time you service the Yeti? 

 

Having the oil changed more regularly as I have a friend who can do interim oil changes on my 1.6 greenline for a few beer notes.  All I have to do is bring the oil, filters etc.

 

Read conflicting info online.  Some saying the sump plug after the original is slightly larger.  Any info appreciated or even better, a part number! :)

 

Cheers folks.

The washer is part of the plug so yes, it is normal practice to replace the plug each time.

My mechanic up road says yes - I think he said plug and washer was sent when he ordered the filter - he always use oem parts on Yetis.

This isn't a Yeti specific question is it?.

  • Author

Well... I own a yeti and am asking a specific question relating to the Yeti's sump so I'd rather avoid any replies that might be coming from folk such as 'I always replace it on my Octavia' etc.  If it needs moving to increase the feedback I'm sure the mods will do so.

Well... I own a yeti and am asking a specific question relating to the Yeti's sump so I'd rather avoid any replies that might be coming from folk such as 'I always replace it on my Octavia' etc.  If it needs moving to increase the feedback I'm sure the mods will do so.

I'm just coming from the angle that I imagine it's a generic VW engine complete.

Well... I own a yeti and am asking a specific question relating to the Yeti's sump so I'd rather avoid any replies that might be coming from folk such as 'I always replace it on my Octavia' etc.  If it needs moving to increase the feedback I'm sure the mods will do so.

AFAIK, they are the same sump plug design across the range.  There are some minor differences but they all interchange.

 

According to the book, they have to be changed - partly because of the aluminium crush washer - partly so that the threads in the sump aren't damaged / stretched / whatever.

 

I've done my last 10 oil changes using the same sump plug.  I cut the ally washer off and replaced it with a fibre washer I had in my "big tin of useful things".  It works as it should.  I haven't had any issues with the thread but I'm not ham-fisted and I tend not to over-tighten these things beyond the recommended torque.

 

I'm sure somebody knows better, so I can't recommend you do the same for the sake of a pocket full of change.

The plug would be steel I'd think so it wouldn't distort (the alloy sump would) and I've done the same innumerable times.......it pays to be a bit weak some times.

New sump plug normally less than a £1 and torque to 30 Nm.

To me, a washer is what's needed, and even then I reused often.

New sump plug normally less than a £1 and torque to 30 Nm.

They're cheap in the UK.  The last few I was charged for at the dealer they were AUD5 down (GBP2.50).  It adds up when you are getting a service every 5 months.

This isn't a Yeti specific question is it?.

The vast majority of the components on my Yeti are stamped VW and/or Audi,  including the engine and gearbox.  Do you honestly suggest that we mustn't raise any issues on this forum that involve parts that might be fitted to other vehicles from VAG.. whether Yeti,  Skoda, Vw, Audi or Seat?  Get real!

Nothing wrong with fitting new washer to plug.

Plug will last for years.

Washer is softer than the plug so will give a little.

 

I cant remember the last time I replaced a plug unless damaged previously.

(and I have done thousands)

£1.63 for the new plug.   Easy peezy.   it is amazing how many fit washers just, then are back for a new Plug.

 

?

How much are the correct washer.?

Nothing wrong with fitting new washer to plug.

Plug will last for years.

Washer is softer than the plug so will give a little.

 

I cant remember the last time I replaced a plug unless damaged previously.

(and I have done thousands)

Exactly

The only thing I worry about is the alloy thread of the sump.

I have a number of motor bikes and it's normal practice to replace just the washer because of it being crushed (though some folks anneal and reuse) so why should it be any different with a car especially when it shouldn't be tightened that much anyway?

 

Out of interest does the dealer usually drain the oil from the sump or suck out?

Drain I'd think.......too slow otherwise.

And they have the hoist, so can do inspection while it's draining.

I have yet to change the oil on a Skoda or other VAG variant and had an oil leak due to me not changing the sump plug and washer.

 

That said, if your getting the parts from a dealer I would get one for what they cost, but I wouldn't go out of my way to get one

I have to admit I've changed oil on many cars without replacing the plug or washer and never had a leak. If the washers were fibre I would replace, but usually they are aluminium. Some are trapped in a groove up against the hex head and won't come off. If I'm not in a hurry and can twist off an ali washer, I might run both sides over the oil stone a few times.  I read more problems with DIY oil changes where newbies overtighten than get oil leaks afterwards. If you want a super dry sump plug just wrap a couple of turns of ptfe tape hard up against the shoulder before refitting.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Some good feedback. Thank you.

The experienced mechanic+friend who serviced my Yeti at a local non VAG garage did reuse the same plug as I didn't turn up with a replacement but tightened it carefully to avoid damaging the sump.  Inspected the threads carefully and were perfect.

 

The same friend came to help me when installing a femco drainplug on the Defender of mine.  A fit and forget plug that you can attach a bleed pipe therefore never having to take the sump plug out again.  The nm of torque on that was very high and even he said 'I certainly wouldn't tighten it that much for the sump thread sake'

 

I'll get a brand new one from my local skoda garage for a few quid. I'm saving hundreds on labour charges so I don't mind.  I was totally thrown by a post on another forum stating a much larger sump plug needed to be fitted.  Thought it was pretty odd.

Edited by TD5

Well... I own a yeti and am asking a specific question relating to the Yeti's sump so I'd rather avoid any replies that might be coming from folk such as 'I always replace it on my Octavia' etc. If it needs moving to increase the feedback I'm sure the mods will do so.

My MkII octavia diesel has exactly the same sump plug as our mkI petrol Seat Leon, and the same as your Yeti so...

Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Yeah, pretty generic size across the VAG range.

N90813202

M14 x 1.5  22

 

£1.35   Eurocarparts.com

Edited by TD5

Just fit a Quick Valve instead, then it never needs to come off ever again.

 

£20 but saves a bit of time during each service too...

 

http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/

 

Standard-Valve-Large.JPG

  • Author

Big fan of these. 

 

Fitted a FEMCO drain plug to my Defender 90.  It was a modified one with a supermagnet on top.  I did that as I service it myself.

 

With the Yeti, I'd prefer to let any crap drop out of the bottom and it's not a problem during service as it's done on a ramp unlike the Defender... and I don't do it! ;-D 

I came up with a solution on a previous older diesel vehicle requiring oil changes every 4K pre long life oils. The problem is not just accessing the sump plug, but emptying the oil out in such a way you don't need ramps, have oil running down your sleeve or need to remove engine trays! Of course we all know many garages suck out oil from the dipstick safe and clean but leaving crud behind in the sump!

 

On this old diesel I made an adapter to replace the sump plug with a brass hose tail brazed on the end. I used a 1/2" oil grade re-inforced hose which was hooked to a high point with a tap on the end. To change the oil I just dropped the hose through to the ground and emptied out oil into a 5 litre oil tray. O.K the Yeti has the under engine tray to work around, but it might still be doable. The end result is clean hands and no grubbing about crawling underneath.

Edited by voxmagna

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