Skoda Octavia MK 2 1.8 TSI FL needs service advice

[Snowman89]

I picked up my "new" car earlier this week, it is a Skoda Octavia MK 2 1.8 TSI FL 2010 that is just shy of 50000 miles.

The earlier owner mentioned that the last service was done early 2015 and the next was scheduled to be around begining of 2017.

But since the prices for service and maintenance on cars are quite high I'm planning to do the service myself and earlier.

 

From my understanding the upcomming service would have covered oil + filter, engine air filter and also the interior air filters, new spark plugs and also the brake fluid.

I also plan to replace the fuel filter since i figure it could be a good thing to do.

Is there anything specific that i should do while I'm at it?

When doing the things above, should i think of something special?

Is there a specific procedure on how to fill the engine with oil or how to prime the cam chain tensioner after a oil change?

Since the cam chain tensioner is a hydraulic version i figure a oil change could cause it to run "dry" for some seconds, causing lack of tension to the cam chain.

 

Also the cars brakes feel arent really perfect, it feels kind of spongy and does not really provide the driver with a nice feel of control over the brakes.

Is this the way the Octavia's stock brakes is supposed to be?

Ive only driven newer cars in the last couple of years so I'm not confident to say that this is wrong or correct. 

The car is about 6years old and from my understanding the brake's have never been touched.

It did however just pass it's MOT the day before i bought it, so the discs and pads should be fine.

 

 

Any ideas and helpful advice is greatly appreciated!

Edited 20 March, 2016 by Snowman89

[Snowman89]

Just realised this thread ended up in the Mk 1 section, sorry!

Is it possible for a mod to move the thread or am i better of reposting it?

[john999boy]

It's now in the correct section.

[Snowman89]

Thanks for moving the thread.

 

I had a look under the hood today and realised that the fuel filter was NOT at the position i thought it would be..

In the pictures ive seen the filter should be located on the left side of the engine, which it is not..

So have anyone else tried and replaced this filter?

If so, where is it located?

[Anddenton]

The filter on the left of the engine bay is I believe diesel only. On petrols I think it is under the car in line in the fuel lines.

[trundlenut]

The air filter interval is 60k miles. Your car probably still has the original one fitted, and it won't get changed. On the petrol engines is under the car back towards the tank IIRC.

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[promethian]

Mine had the spark-plugs replaced at 50k as well.

[trundlenut]

The air filter interval is 60k miles. Your car probably still has the original one fitted, and it won't get changed. On the petrol engines is under the car back towards the tank IIRC.

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Not sure where the words fuel filter went in the last sentence.

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[brad1.8T]

As a new owner & if you are DIY'ing I'd suggest you change to fixed services every 7,000 miles.  Use good quality 504 spec oil.  There are a few links in the forum to an ebay seller with cheap oil.

 

Use a Mahle or Mann oil filter.  Change the air, fuel and cabin filters.  

 

The fuel filter is just in front of the RH, rear wheel.   There are two types that look exactly the same.  The difference is the pressure rating.    I can't remember if the pressure rating is for burst pressure or flow relevant to pump pressure (eg: higher pressure rating isn't necessarily better).  Make sure you get the right one is about all I can suggest.

 

For the cam chain tensioner I just change my oil & start the car.  I haven't had an issue with the chain tensioner / start-up noise, etc - ever.  I have the BZB block EA888.  Maybe yours is different as you probably have the CAxx that has cam chain tensioner issues.  You may wish to look at getting the tensioner changed as a preventive maintenance measure.

 

The brake pedal on these is usually quite sensitive.  If it's spongy then there are a few possibilities.  

1) The brake fluid is due for the 2-yearly flush.   

2) They've used the "wrong" brake fluid in the past and you have a sensitive foot.  The correct VW spec (TL766) brake fluid is a low viscosity DOT 4 Class 6 conforming to ISO 4925 (eg: ATE SL6 or Pentosin DOT4 LV).  Most places just use normal DOT4. (very likely but I doubt it's the issue)

3) They didn't "actuate" the ABS block when doing the last (any of) the previous fluid changes.  This needs to be done occasionally to renew the brake fluid in the ABS.  The black crap that comes out of it is unbelievable.  This can only be done with VCDS or similar. (very likely)

4) The sliders on the brake calipers need cleaning & lubrication (very likely)

5) The disc rotors have an excessive lip on them. (very likely)

6) Somebody has changed the setting for the brake pedal sensitivity using VCDS. (unlikely, most people don't know about it).

[promethian]

As a new owner & if you are DIY'ing I'd suggest you change to fixed services every 7,000 miles.  Use good quality 504 spec oil.  There are a few links in the forum to an ebay seller with cheap oil.

 

Use a Mahle or Mann oil filter.  Change the air, fuel and cabin filters.  

 

The fuel filter is just in front of the RH, rear wheel.   There are two types that look exactly the same.  The difference is the pressure rating.    I can't remember if the pressure rating is for burst pressure or flow relevant to pump pressure (eg: higher pressure rating isn't necessarily better).  Make sure you get the right one is about all I can suggest.

 

For the cam chain tensioner I just change my oil & start the car.  I haven't had an issue with the chain tensioner / start-up noise, etc - ever.  I have the BZB block EA888.  Maybe yours is different as you probably have the CAxx that has cam chain tensioner issues.  You may wish to look at getting the tensioner changed as a preventive maintenance measure.

 

The brake pedal on these is usually quite sensitive.  If it's spongy then there are a few possibilities.  

1) The brake fluid is due for the 2-yearly flush.   

2) They've used the "wrong" brake fluid in the past and you have a sensitive foot.  The correct VW spec (TL766) brake fluid is a low viscosity DOT 4 Class 6 conforming to ISO 4925 (eg: ATE SL6 or Pentosin DOT4 LV).  Most places just use normal DOT4. (very likely but I doubt it's the issue)

3) They didn't "actuate" the ABS block when doing the last (any of) the previous fluid changes.  This needs to be done occasionally to renew the brake fluid in the ABS.  The black crap that comes out of it is unbelievable.  This can only be done with VCDS or similar. (very likely)

4) The sliders on the brake calipers need cleaning & lubrication (very likely)

5) The disc rotors have an excessive lip on them. (very likely)

6) Somebody has changed the setting for the brake pedal sensitivity using VCDS. (unlikely, most people don't know about it).

 

This is great info... if you have any other tips re servicing I'm all ears, as I'm going to be self servicing mine.

 

Where did you get this info from by the way, is there a font of knowledge anywhere? I have been looking for a some sort of workshop manual for the 1.8 tsi but not found anything relevant.

[brad1.8T]

This is great info... if you have any other tips re servicing I'm all ears, as I'm going to be self servicing mine.

 

Where did you get this info from by the way, is there a font of knowledge anywhere? I have been looking for a some sort of workshop manual for the 1.8 tsi but not found anything relevant.

I've had my car for 8 years.  I'm a qualified mech, passionate about my own cars and have a thirst for knowledge.  Up until a few months back I had a job that required me to run reports in a very slow IT system.  You couldn't run them in the background so I had plenty of time to research car stuff.  I'm a bit busier these days but still like to keep up with things.

 

the 1.8tsi isn't much different to the 2.0tsi so if you look at what Golf GTI folk are doing you can pick up a fair bit.

[Snowman89]

As a new owner & if you are DIY'ing I'd suggest you change to fixed services every 7,000 miles. Use good quality 504 spec oil. There are a few links in the forum to an ebay seller with cheap oil.

Use a Mahle or Mann oil filter. Change the air, fuel and cabin filters.

The fuel filter is just in front of the RH, rear wheel. There are two types that look exactly the same. The difference is the pressure rating. I can't remember if the pressure rating is for burst pressure or flow relevant to pump pressure (eg: higher pressure rating isn't necessarily better). Make sure you get the right one is about all I can suggest.

For the cam chain tensioner I just change my oil & start the car. I haven't had an issue with the chain tensioner / start-up noise, etc - ever. I have the BZB block EA888. Maybe yours is different as you probably have the CAxx that has cam chain tensioner issues. You may wish to look at getting the tensioner changed as a preventive maintenance measure.

The brake pedal on these is usually quite sensitive. If it's spongy then there are a few possibilities.

1) The brake fluid is due for the 2-yearly flush.

2) They've used the "wrong" brake fluid in the past and you have a sensitive foot. The correct VW spec (TL766) brake fluid is a low viscosity DOT 4 Class 6 conforming to ISO 4925 (eg: ATE SL6 or Pentosin DOT4 LV). Most places just use normal DOT4. (very likely but I doubt it's the issue)

3) They didn't "actuate" the ABS block when doing the last (any of) the previous fluid changes. This needs to be done occasionally to renew the brake fluid in the ABS. The black crap that comes out of it is unbelievable. This can only be done with VCDS or similar. (very likely)

4) The sliders on the brake calipers need cleaning & lubrication (very likely)

5) The disc rotors have an excessive lip on them. (very likely)

6) Somebody has changed the setting for the brake pedal sensitivity using VCDS. (unlikely, most people don't know about it).

Thanks for your reply.

Yes i will change the service to the fixed one.

Could yoy give me some advice on how to actuate the abs unit?

Me and a friend will do the maintenance tomorrow and he has vcds.

I will also check my engine code to see what it is..

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[Snowman89]

I have s CDAA Engine. Is that a one with or without cam chain problems?

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[brad1.8T]

Thanks for your reply.

Yes i will change the service to the fixed one.

Could yoy give me some advice on how to actuate the abs unit?

Me and a friend will do the maintenance tomorrow and he has vcds.

I will also check my engine code to see what it is..

Skickat från min LG-D855 via Tapatalk

 

Without hooking VCDS to my car and double checking, it should be this:

 

[select]

[03 - ABS Brakes] 

[basic Settings - 04]

Group 001

[Go!]

Once you hit GO! the screen says to depress pedal and hold

You have to press the pedal HARD. Seriously, pound the pedal like you're about to drive over a cliff. Remember to hold the pedal down!

The pedal will drop, the pump runs briefly, then the pedal comes back up. 

[brad1.8T]

I have s CDAA Engine. Is that a one with or without cam chain problems?

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I'm not sure.  I do know the original Gen1 EA888 BZB block appears to be OK.  It's the Gen2 that has the issue.

[promethian]

I have a CDAA engine too, what's the difference between CDAA and the EA888 engine, apart from the obvious timing chain problems?

 

 

Edit... CDAA  is an EA888 engine.... just researching further info

Edited 24 March, 2016 by promethian

[promethian]

Just to clarify the above.

 

The CDAA engine is one of the family of EA888 engines.

 

The engine I have, and Snowman has, is a Gen II with a timing chain, and thus at risk of timing chain tensioner fails.

 

However, failures of the chain tensioner seem to be few and far between in the 1.8 Tsi version of this engine.

 

If my engine sounded like this... 

 I would be worried but mine sounds sweet as a pea.

[brad1.8T]

I have a CDAA engine too, what's the difference between CDAA and the EA888 engine, apart from the obvious timing chain problems?

 

 

Edit... CDAA  is an EA888 engine.... just researching further info

Read this.  Keep in mind it's an Audi document so they still use the TFSI nomenclature.  There's a better document out there but I can't find it.

 

CDAA / CDAB / CDHB were all Gen 2 and had the following changes from the Gen 1 BZB.  They were mainly to reduce friction & improve fuel economy.

 

• main bearing diameter reduced from 58mm to 52mm
• different pistons
• different rings
• different bore honing process
• self regulating oil pump.

It's my belief that the self regulating oil pump causes excessive pressure leakdown when switched off and insufficient oil pressure behind the timing chain tensioner on start-up.  This causes the engine to lunch itself if it rotates contrary to normal rotation when not running or if there is slack in the timing chain on start-up.

Edited 25 March, 2016 by brad1.8T

[Snowman89]

Read this.  Keep in mind it's an Audi document so they still use the TFSI nomenclature.  There's a better document out there but I can't find it.

 

CDAA / CDAB / CDHB were all Gen 2 and had the following changes from the Gen 1 BZB.  They were mainly to reduce friction & improve fuel economy.

 

• main bearing diameter reduced from 58mm to 52mm
• different pistons
• different rings
• different bore honing process
• self regulating oil pump.

It's my belief that the self regulating oil pump causes excessive pressure leakdown when switched off and insufficient oil pressure behind the timing chain tensioner on start-up.  This causes the engine to lunch itself if it rotates contrary to normal rotation when not running or if there is slack in the timing chain on start-up.

Thanks for the information.

However I'm a bit curious on what differs between two engines of the same generation/type where one would fail and one does not.

Is this related to running the engine on the long life service, ie up to 30000km before oil change?

There must be something more than just a bad design and bad luck that would cause a chain tensioner to fail at 50000km or run for 200000km+

[promethian]

Read this.  Keep in mind it's an Audi document so they still use the TFSI nomenclature.  There's a better document out there but I can't find it.

 

CDAA / CDAB / CDHB were all Gen 2 and had the following changes from the Gen 1 BZB.  They were mainly to reduce friction & improve fuel economy.

 

• main bearing diameter reduced from 58mm to 52mm
• different pistons
• different rings
• different bore honing process
• self regulating oil pump.

It's my belief that the self regulating oil pump causes excessive pressure leakdown when switched off and insufficient oil pressure behind the timing chain tensioner on start-up.  This causes the engine to lunch itself if it rotates contrary to normal rotation when not running or if there is slack in the timing chain on start-up.

 

Thanks Brad.  :clap:

 

I've actually linked up to all your old posts, there's a mine of useful information in them.

[brad1.8T]

Thanks Brad.  :clap:

 

I've actually linked up to all your old posts, there's a mine of useful information in them.

It's my pleasure.

 

No point having knowledge if you can't share it with like-minded folk.

[promethian]

Just an update on my car.

 

I had a good dig around the engine bay and I noticed something strange.

 

My car build date is week 33 2010

 

The build dates on the timing chain cover and the ignition/injector housing plastic covers both have build dates of 31 10 2013 ??? And they both look newer than the rest of the housings in the engine bay.

 

It look likes both of these have been replaced and I'm wondering what work was carried out for this to be necessary ??? (Timing chain fail and valves injector system changed???)

 

All the information I have is the service manual and there are no indications or workshop notes in it suggest anything happening.

 

The car runs as sweet as a pea so I'm not to concerned with anything being wrong with it.... But I am curious.

Edited 28 March, 2016 by promethian

[cheshire_cat]

guess you could ask  Skoda's computer 

[brad1.8T]

Just an update on my car.

 

I had a good dig around the engine bay and I noticed something strange.

 

My car build date is week 33 2010

 

The build dates on the timing chain cover and the ignition/injector housing plastic covers both have build dates of 31 10 2013 ??? And they both look newer than the rest of the housings in the engine bay.

 

It look likes both of these have been replaced and I'm wondering what work was carried out for this to be necessary ??? (Timing chain fail and valves injector system changed???)

 

All the information I have is the service manual and there are no indications or workshop notes in it suggest anything happening.

 

The car runs as sweet as a pea so I'm not to concerned with anything being wrong with it.... But I am curious.

Timing chain cover - maybe they've done the timing chain tensioner but I can't understand why the cover itself would be changed.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by injector / ignition housing.  The injectors are underneath the intake manifold at the front.  The igniter leads run along the middle of the rocker cover between the camshafts.  The cover over the rocker cover is purely aesthetic.  Unless it was damaged or faulty there would be no reason to change it.

[promethian]

Sorry I meant the ribbed plastic intake manifold housing at the front of the engine.

 

I'm considering a bluefin remap. I understand you 've had on too Brad. What are results like?

 

From what I can make out from the maps, the torque increases greatly between 2-3000 rpm, and that should really improve the driveability of the car.

Edited 29 March, 2016 by promethian