My dash cam fitting

[tigermad]

16 hours ago, MaddicIrl said:

It should be fine as long as you have the orientation of the piggy back fuse correct, the piggy back fuse will split the voltage into two circuits, one for the exiting circuit and one for the dash cam. The side that splits the voltage should be on the +12V side, it will work in either orientation but the wrong orientation will mean the current for both circuits go through the first fuse and then split. You may never notice or it may blow the first fuse when there is no fault (depends on total current and/or peak current of course).

How do you know what way round it is? I have removed it for the moment because the battery pack to it playing up but if I install on another car would like to know. Thanks. 

[MaddicIrl]

2 hours ago, tigermad said:

How do you know what way round it is? I have removed it for the moment because the battery pack to it playing up but if I install on another car would like to know. Thanks. 

I would remove the fuse from the piggy back holder that leads to the dashcam, a simple continuity test on a multimeter should show this. Place the piggyback holder with the original fuse in its slot and turn on the ignition (I am assuming you are using an ignition feed not a constant). Then use the multimeter on dc voltage setting to determine which side of the empty fuse holder shows +12V, thats the side of the fuse box which is supplying the voltage and the piggyback holder should be placed so the splitter side is on the 12V. Again a continuity test should identify the splitter side. When doing the continuity tests, remove both fuses and perform the test when not inserted.

 

You could do the same by simply removing the fuse and test but it will likely bring up errors on the dash, the above method keeps the original circuit intact so there should be no errors.

[MaddicIrl]

Mods can you delete the above post from me, plz. After thinking about it, the above method will not work, my apologies.

 

Alternative method, remove the main fuse from the piggyback fuse holder i.e. the one for the existing circuit, then place the piggyback in place, the correct orientation the dash cam will work, in the incorrect orientation it will not but this method may throw up errors which should clear when the main fuse is reinserted afaik.

[tigermad]

37 minutes ago, MaddicIrl said:

Mods can you delete the above post from me, plz. After thinking about it, the above method will not work, my apologies.

 

Alternative method, remove the main fuse from the piggyback fuse holder i.e. the one for the existing circuit, then place the piggyback in place, the correct orientation the dash cam will work, in the incorrect orientation it will not but this method may throw up errors which should clear when the main fuse is reinserted afaik.

Ok thanks. My other fuse will be for the portable battery. My dash cam connects to the Cellink battery. Stupid question how do you know you are removing the main fuse. They are both 10a

 

i have just removed the whole system that was working for 2 years. My Cellink battery stopped working in parking mode and wouldnt provide a charge for anything. Plus my cars electric parking brake has started to play up to top the whole week off. Funny how the Cellink battery plays up and a couple of days later the parking brake comes up with errors every morning. Maybe my car has wrecked the Cellink somehow. Or might just be a coincidence.  

[MaddicIrl]

39 minutes ago, tigermad said:

Ok thanks. My other fuse will be for the portable battery. My dash cam connects to the Cellink battery. Stupid question how do you know you are removing the main fuse. They are both 10a

 

i have just removed the whole system that was working for 2 years. My Cellink battery stopped working in parking mode and wouldnt provide a charge for anything. Plus my cars electric parking brake has started to play up to top the whole week off. Funny how the Cellink battery plays up and a couple of days later the parking brake comes up with errors every morning. Maybe my car has wrecked the Cellink somehow. Or might just be a coincidence.  

On the one below, the bottom fuse is the one I referred to as the main fuse, the top fuse is for the accessory, in your case the Cellink battery. Also on the one below, the splitter side I referred to is on the left of picture. If you have a different piggyback type, a multimeter is the best bet, I can PM you how if needed.

 

[kindalen]

Thanks to OP and all who posted here, got my dashcam sorted in no time thanks to the help from here.

[jjc]

Hi all,

 

I have tried the fuse listed "blind spot" and on my Superb it "blips" when the engine starts "start/stop" this causes the camera to do a restart, not a major problem, but there is a possibility that while it is booting that may just be the moment you want the footage. Does anyone know of a fuse that is ignition controlled but does not blip during the start/stop process? Mine is a Feb 2019 model.

 

John

[nbramwel]

I have a 2018 Octavia with stop start and used the fuse for the rear wiper connected to a Cellink dash cam battery under the front seat.  It is a switched live and, as far as I know, isn't affected by the stop start.  I guess the Superb is the same although the fuse number may well be different. 

[JR RS]

On 08/03/2020 at 01:09, jjc said:

Does anyone know of a fuse that is ignition controlled but does not blip during the start/stop process? Mine is a Feb 2019 model

 

I piggy-backed the rear wiper (#47) fuse for an ignition source.

No issues at all.

Edited 9 March, 2020 by JR RS

[dolphinjo]

We're looking to install a dash cam and thought great this thread will really help. However, our fuse no 48 only has a contact at the top and not the bottom of the fuse slot so it doesn't work. It's a 2016 SE Business estate.  My husband has gone through the fuses and most of them seem to be live with the ignition off.  We've tried the rear wiper fuse but the dash cam will only work if the wiper is being used. Does anyone have any other suggestions please? 

[MASKO]

3 hours ago, dolphinjo said:

We're looking to install a dash cam and thought great this thread will really help. However, our fuse no 48 only has a contact at the top and not the bottom of the fuse slot so it doesn't work. It's a 2016 SE Business estate.  My husband has gone through the fuses and most of them seem to be live with the ignition off.  We've tried the rear wiper fuse but the dash cam will only work if the wiper is being used. Does anyone have any other suggestions please? 

I had my dash cam fitted by Halfords for £30. Works perfectly starts when engine starts and turns off when ignition turned off. All wires hidden.

[DB72]

5 hours ago, dolphinjo said:

My husband has gone through the fuses and most of them seem to be live with the ignition off.  We've tried the rear wiper fuse but the dash cam will only work if the wiper is being used. Does anyone have any other suggestions please? 

 

I haven't got my user manual with me so can't be sure but if I remember correctly I might have used fuse 32 which I think was a 7.5 amp for park assist (which I don't have so was spare). 

[JR RS]

6 hours ago, dolphinjo said:

We're looking to install a dash cam and thought great this thread will really help. However, our fuse no 48 only has a contact at the top and not the bottom of the fuse slot so it doesn't work. It's a 2016 SE Business estate.  My husband has gone through the fuses and most of them seem to be live with the ignition off.  We've tried the rear wiper fuse but the dash cam will only work if the wiper is being used. Does anyone have any other suggestions please? 

 

Fuse no. 48 is the blind spot detection.

I used to. 47 (rear wiper).  No issues with the dashcam, working only when there is ignition.

Edited 16 January, 2021 by JR RS