My dash cam fitting

[Superb626]

Hi Folks

a bit off topic but has anyone fitted a camera to the back window of a combi, I know that the live feed needs to be taken

from the wiper motor but I am reluctant to take off the trim, I would appreciate any advice and if possible pictures.

[markmuddimer]

Anyone know which micro fuse slot I can use to piggyback for my transend. I've pulled this straight from my old car and didn't want the job of buying and swapping a new piggyback. I guess I am just lazy.

[tigermad]

Hi my cellink b kit comes with a 20 amp fuse. If i use 47 or 48 to piggyback which are 15 or 10 amp is it ok to use the 20 amp in there as well?

Edited 15 April, 2017 by tigermad

[Gizmo]

For a dashcam they normally use a really low fuse in the ‘cigarette lighter’ plug... 2.5 - 5amp so it doesn’t really matter what fuse you use in the fuse tap. 

If you were cutting off the plug and wiring it directly to the fuse tap then replace the fuse with one the same size as in the plug.

[Mikeworcs]

3 hours ago, tigermad said:

Hi my cellink b kit comes with a 20 amp fuse. If i use 47 or 48 to piggyback which are 15 or 10 amp is it ok to use the 20 amp in there as well?

 

The cellink keeps the camera on while the ignition is off?

 

The piggyback keeps the two fused circuits separate, so the 20 amp should be fine.  The deciding factor for me wasn't one of amps, but of accessibility for the piggyback - and the ignition on/off state of the fuse - for which, fuse 48 (blind spot detector on the Superb MK3 L&K) works perfectly.  I couldn't use #47 as the piggyback interfered with #45 (electric seats).

 

Presumably you've got something like this as well, or the cellink drops the voltage for the camera : https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/l6s/DC-DC-Supply-Power-Converter-Module-Output-Adapter/B00E5VH1OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492248999&sr=1-1&keywords=DC-DC+Supply+Power+Converter+Buck+Module+12V+to+5V+3A+Mini+USB+Output+Power+Adapter+Car

 

 

 

 

Edited 15 April, 2017 by Mikeworcs

[tigermad]

1 hour ago, Gizmo68 said:

For a dashcam they normally use a really low fuse in the ‘cigarette lighter’ plug... 2.5 - 5amp so it doesn’t really matter what fuse you use in the fuse tap. 

If you were cutting off the plug and wiring it directly to the fuse tap then replace the fuse with one the same size as in the plug.

Hi. Its the battery pack that is going to wired into the fuse board. It's 7amp so they recommend a minimum of 10amp. The camera then plugs into the battery pack. So I will get the installer to use a 10amp one I guess. 

[tigermad]

2 hours ago, Mikeworcs said:

 

The cellink keeps the camera on while the ignition is off?

 

The piggyback keeps the two fused circuits separate, so the 20 amp should be fine.  The deciding factor for me wasn't one of amps, but of accessibility for the piggyback - and the ignition on/off state of the fuse - for which, fuse 48 (blind spot detector on the Superb MK3 L&K) works perfectly.  I couldn't use #47 as the piggyback interfered with #45 (electric seats).

 

Presumably you've got something like this as well, or the cellink drops the voltage for the camera : https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/l6s/DC-DC-Supply-Power-Converter-Module-Output-Adapter/B00E5VH1OI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492248999&sr=1-1&keywords=DC-DC+Supply+Power+Converter+Buck+Module+12V+to+5V+3A+Mini+USB+Output+Power+Adapter+Car

 

 

 

 

Hi. When the ignition is on the battery pack is charging via the fuse board and the camera is plugged into the battery pack. When the ignition is off the camera then uses the battery pack for parking mode so the car battery is bypassed completely until you switch the ignition on again. I have electric seats too so I will get the installer to use no. 48. 

 

The dashcam cam is hardwired into the output of cellink battery pack, done by splicing 3 wires together. The input of the battery back goes straight to the fuse board. 

Edited 15 April, 2017 by tigermad

[markmuddimer]

I just wanted to say thanks to all for the advice. Fitted my transcend 200 today and it's a perfect install. Happy man indeed.

[Mikeworcs]

Glad you got it sorted - what fuse did you piggyback in the end?

[pastiche]

Got the Next base 112  with hard wire kit and in the leaflet it said that it is for the cam only. What I would like to do is piggy back for my sat nav as well would this be possible?

[aldouk]

I got a lovely present from er in doors, a Blackvue DR490L-2CH.

 

Is this the main thread for reading through to hard wire in?

 

I’ve not picked up the S3 yet, but delivery is imminent. I’d like to hard wire the camera in to make use of the parking mode etc, so any advice appreciated. 

 

I will read through the helpful posts too and try get it in my head what’s required once the car arrives

 

Cheers. 

 

PS - Sounds like dash cams are plagued with bad DAB reception? I Also have this in our other car so sort of use to it. 

Edited 26 December, 2017 by aldouk

[Alan_P]

1 hour ago, aldouk said:

PS - Sounds like dash cams are plagued with bad DAB reception? I Also have this in our other car so sort of use to it.

 

My rear cam caused a bit of interference in an A6, but lining the inside of the case with copper slug tape completely removed it. After installing it in the Superb I noticed quite a bit of interference. I listen to 5 Live mostly and it has no FM fall back so it’s very noticeable. Tried numerous positions but the antenna seems to run the width of the rear screen in the Superb (side window on A6) and it’s also a lot more sensitive. Even aftermarket LED reverse bulbs cause it to drop out... I won’t be swapping to LED indicators because of this. I tried various cables/psu and loads of ferrite core EMI noise suppressors everywhere and removing the slug tape obviously. Also swapped cams and tried an external isolated psu to confirm it was definitely coming from the dashcam.

 

My last hope was NSCP compound nickel screening plus (ENSCP400H) which to my surprise works really well… three heavy coats on the inside of the case. It’s still not quite as good as having the rear cam off, but only a quick, occasional dropout in poor signal areas and I now get fast channel changes where it was previously dead and not able to search at all.

 

You can completely strip a Mobius action cam down to the case, but it might not suit all makes/models. The stuff is also ridiculously expensive now. There were a couple of sellers on ebay doing it for under £25 when I got it, but it seems to be £60 now I would guess the tin could do dozens of cases so maybe chip in with the rest of the street ...and also try the cheap fixes first.

Edited 27 December, 2017 by Alan_P

[TerryMcK]

I've just used Roberts instructions to fit my Nextbase wiring kit. I was able to hide all of the cables and it is easy with the handle of an old spoon - the wider the better. I was able to connect to the 15A rear wiper fuse (fuse 47). All working ok at the moment but the piggy back still fouls the adjacent relay so I changed it to the 10A fuse for blind spot detection (fuse 48). That appears to give it more room and is also switched by the ignition.

Edited 29 March, 2018 by TerryMcK

[MCL]

Hi guys, would just like to thank the OP for the excellent guide as I've just fitted my dash cam and although I have a MK 2 Superb, the routing was pretty much the same.  As I've only just got the cam I've routed it to the cigarette socket for now.  

Although this is an old thread it was still the top hit on Google to wire in a dash cam, and still helpful

[xman]

Apologies if already discussed, but

for information, posting dashcam footage on the internet is now, I believe, illegal in the UK and most of the EU. (Privacy, GDPR etc) In many EU countries the use of dashcams is considered illegal full stop, in Austria for instance very heavy fines and they can even confiscate the car immediately.

 

Also dashcams screens must always be turned off whilst moving.

 

More info here

 

https://www.ramtracking.com/blog/dashcam-technology-privacy-laws-what-you-need-to-know-for-driving-in-europe/

 

[Ghoster01]

I Would like to thank RobertP for the information on this topic which I followed generally, although a long time after☹️. Interestingly, I did not have a fuse at all in the 10 amp slot of my Superb 111. 

It did, however, take me a long time to work out whether to open the top or bottom of the braking arm connection of the passenger glove compartment  noting all the problems people seemed to have.  I read several options in places. 

After a long time it was easy. (I know once you have done it, it is always easy.) Pull the lower end  of the arm, where it connects, towards you and then take it out of the slot and release the two retainers / stops by pushing upwards as shown in the diagram. These have to be pushed up a little further than you would think. The putting back was the reversal. 

Hoping this may help someone. 

[Apexor]

Just for an alternate option. I drilled a small hole under the rubber in the sliding phone holder where the cigarette lighter is. I then fed the cable downwards and was able to fish it out on the passenger side footwell. From there I could channel it, hidden right up the rear-view mirror. The usb cable is now plugged directly nice and neatly into the aux usb output beside the cigarette lighter. I'm OCD about stuff like this and am really happy with the results. I can lob up a couple of pictures if anyone requires them.

[Ghoster01]

I managed to take the wire all around the windscreen and door rubber under the joint on the door cill along under plastic all the way up to the connection. One advantage of taking a long winding route is that you do not have much spare to hide. The cable is completely hidden except where it joins the camera. 

[tigermad]

Had my f770 and Cellink b working happily for 2 years and since Saturday parking mode no longer engages. It just beeps once when turned off. Could the acc fuse have blown or is there another possible reason?

[JR RS]

On 08/08/2018 at 19:04, Ghoster01 said:

I managed to take the wire all around the windscreen and door rubber under the joint on the door cill along under plastic all the way up to the connection. One advantage of taking a long winding route is that you do not have much spare to hide. The cable is completely hidden except where it joins the camera. 

 

I took a similar path, except when I got to the bottom of the A-pillar, I popped the side panel off the dashboard, and took the wire in there and hardwired the power into the fuse (#47) panel behind the glovebox.

 

This keeps the 12V socket free and usable.

 

 

[JR RS]

On 08/08/2018 at 19:04, Ghoster01 said:

I managed to take the wire all around the windscreen and door rubber under the joint on the door cill along under plastic all the way up to the connection. One advantage of taking a long winding route is that you do not have much spare to hide. The cable is completely hidden except where it joins the camera. 

 

I took a similar path, except when I got to the bottom of the A-pillar, I popped the side panel off the dashboard, and took the wire in there and hardwired the power into the fuse (#47) panel behind the glovebox.

 

This keeps the 12V socket free and usable.

 

 

 

 

[OH2FTU]

I finally installed the Garmin 45 to my superb. Loosening the headliner, including removal of recessed handle, sun visor and light console was much easier than expected.

Actually, there seems to be enough space above the headliner, and suitable power (batt, acc and GND) at the roof console in most versions to take the power there.

However, routing the cable all the way down was relatively easy.

 

I made my own power central, including a timer. This has two power inputs from empty fuses (will have to change the fuse mating connector, they are wrong at the moment). and two sense wires (one for ACC, tapped to the rear wiper wire) and one for future use.

This gave me about 10 fuses for with different functions;

- Constant power

- ACC switched

- Delayed off for ACC switched (programmed for 15min).

 

Then I came across this:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=485095

And I will make some rearrangements.

 

I'm all in for making retrofits and installs OEM. I already wired a cable for the interior monitor, but am still waiting for the rest of the parts. I'm also contemplating on whether to install a two-way radio, LTE/wifi gateway and continuous USB-power for my phone holder.

 

Getting to the fuse box, and loosening it on the LHD version is a PITA. I managed to break my light switch (DUH) AND a fuse secondary locking strip. Thankfully, a complete fuse box was around £20.

[tigermad]

Quick question, I have 2 x  10 amp fuses plugged in slot 48 using a piggy back. Is this ok? I is the battery pack for the camera and the other the fuse that came with the car in that slot (for blind spot). The slot originally just had a 10amp.

[JR RS]

42 minutes ago, tigermad said:

Quick question, I have 2 x  10 amp fuses plugged in slot 48 using a piggy back. Is this ok? I is the battery pack for the camera and the other the fuse that came with the car in that slot (for blind spot). The slot originally just had a 10amp.

 

Yes, ur all good.

As long as u don't put something less than 10 amp in either one.

[MaddicIrl]

On 10/07/2019 at 13:40, tigermad said:

Quick question, I have 2 x  10 amp fuses plugged in slot 48 using a piggy back. Is this ok? I is the battery pack for the camera and the other the fuse that came with the car in that slot (for blind spot). The slot originally just had a 10amp.

It should be fine as long as you have the orientation of the piggy back fuse correct, the piggy back fuse will split the voltage into two circuits, one for the exiting circuit and one for the dash cam. The side that splits the voltage should be on the +12V side, it will work in either orientation but the wrong orientation will mean the current for both circuits go through the first fuse and then split. You may never notice or it may blow the first fuse when there is no fault (depends on total current and/or peak current of course).