19463 Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) - No Signal

[David_He]

Hi all,

Looking for a bit of help. Fabia Vrs 56 plate.

Over the last two weeks the car has struggled to start, it has stalled once on idle and lost power on two occasions going into limp mode.

A friendly briskoda member ran a full vag com on the car and this provided the above fault code.

So I replaced the sensor with a replacement camshaft position sensor (non dealer). I thought this had solved the problem however the car is still the same, cranks a little before start. We ran another scan today and no error codes are detected whilst the engine is not running, however when the engine starts at idle the above 19463 error returns.

Has anyone had this before or have any advice before I reluctantly take to a dealer to investigate.

Any help appreciated.

[TMB]

What is your battery like? A poor battery can throw a cam sensor code.

[David_He]

Hi. I had the battery checked yesterday was told it was ok however not fully charged.

Changing the sensor was straight forward however how would Jim is if the new sensor was faulty also?

Can you drill into the fault code to determine where the error, for exams faults with wires or connections?

[Tech1e]

Is the pick up on the back of the camshaft pulley ok?

[David_He]

Sorry not sure what you mean by that, any chance you could expand please? No other faults coming up on vagco must the obove.

Where could I check the fuse (assuming it has one)

Thanks

[Tech1e]

The sensor picks up its signal from a trigger mounted on the back of the camshaft pulley. Check to see its not bent or come off.

[David_He]

The trigger looks ok.

Had the car out today and it stalled randomly when at traffic lights.

Managed to have the car read again on vagcom and the only error was the camshaft position sensor - no signal.

Would I be able to use a multimeter to check a signal is going into the sensor from the three connectors the sensor clips into?

Rosstech comes up with the below fault finding list.

The only other thing apart from poor wiring is that the new sensor I have bought is either faulty or incorrect for the car.

Possible Causes

Fuse(s) faulty

Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty

Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty

Possible Solutions

Check Fuse(s)

Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)

Check/Replace Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)

[Tech1e]

You need a scope to check the signal, will be too fast for a multimeter. Worth checking the supply and earth but you would get a different fault code. It would be open/short to B+

[David_He]

So if there was no supply to the sensor ir show as a separate fault code? Using a scope to check signal is probably above my technical capabiliy

Sorry to go on and appreciate the help.

The only other thing to add us that when I disconnect the camshaft position sensor it makes no difference to the actual starting of the car Its no worse than the extended cracking I have to do to start the car.

[Tech1e]

That would make sense, as it's getting no signal it just defaults to the crank only.

[sepulchrave]

You can use the AC Volts setting on a multimeter to get a reading, it'll be around 0.5V AC if the sensor is working at all.

[David_He]

Quick update,

Had the car into dealers today they replaced the camshaft sensor with a new one re run the fault finder and the code cleared.

Went back to pick the car up this afternoon and surprise surprise car struggle to start again just cracked for a few seconds before starting up. Whilst driving home the Mel came back on grrrrrrrr back to square one but at least I now know it's not the sensor itself.

They said I can take the car back for fault finding next week at £90 per hour. To locate the problem, I haven't rerun vagcom yet to see if the error vide is the same one.

And advice welcome as I am now £100 lighter and no further forward. However on the plus side they did a visual inspection of the car girl free

[David_He]

Is it possible to visually check the wires to the connector for damage? Is it easy to trace them back to the Ecu to look for signs of damage?

[Tech1e]

Did you ask them to replace the sensor, or did you ask them to diagnose the issue?

[David_He]

No I asked them to replace my mistake should of asked for diagnostic.

[FLAPPERJACK7]

Did you say you have vcds? You can check cam and crank speeds in measured values. Could also save the value's or take a photo and post it back here.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

[Tech1e]

I suspect the camshaft sensor will say zero.

[theezenutz]

I had a similar problem once after I attempted to steam clean the engine bay. I think mine was showing up a crank sensor fault though.

The weird thing was I brought the sensor from Skoda but the problem mysteriously went away, I still have the sensor sat in my cupboard in case it does need replacing. That was about 2 years ago and it hasn't come back since.

Probably doesn't help you but you may end up getting lucky too. It might be worth double checking the condition of any relevant earth points that you can access.

Quick question. Apart from the struggle to start the engine, will it cause any lasting damage to the engine? I only ask because it maybe worth waiting a week or 2 to see if the problem sorts itself out.

Edited 16 April, 2016 by theezenutz

[David_He]

Quick update car became worse yesterday had the car ticking over on idle when in a car park for ten minutes it was ticking over but lumpy as per most vrs's.

Then left the car park and after about 500 yards the car just lost all power didn't splutter or stall just died and came to slow stop, tried to start up again and it wouldn't start just cracked, so gave it 5 mins then tried to start up and it did eventually after cranking for a few seconds. Managed to get the car home and have not started it since.

Having a vcds scan this morning then getting it towed to skoda by a friend. They already have it booked in for Tuesday so didn't want risk further damage as it a 30min journey to garage..

The only other thing to happen was the rear brake light blew about 5 mins after getting the car restarted and driving home.

Checked the timing belt and it looks ok was changed at 45k and the car is now on 71k with Fsh.

Will see what the vcds brings up.

[David_He]

Ran a scan this morning, the car started up straight away took it for a run and it ran fine no cutting out at all. EML came on after ten mins with the below fault codes

19463 Camshaft position sensor G40 - No signal intermittent

19576 EGR System P3130 -35-10 Regulation range exceeded Intermittent

The car has now been dropped off at the dealers so will see what they say. Looked at mist thing ps and it's still a mystery.

The egr valve would not cause the car to cut out would it?

[David_He]

Quick update to close the topic.

Skoda did a fault find and diagnosed a resistive fault on power supply (pin 1) forcamshaft sensor. Found the damaged wire and replaced in full.

Car now starts perfect and runs fine.

Only job left to do now is to replace the egr valve with a spare I have. When replacing is it easier to remove the egr pipe form the manifold and then slide out? Any tips to loosen the two bolts on the egr pipe that are connected to the manifold?

Cheers

[bickie]

Hi there everyone, I'm trying to replace my camshaft position sensor but can't locate it on my mark 1 Fabia VRS...could anyone give me any tips / point me to a guide please? Thanks!!

[felicia16v]

It's behind the cam pully at around 5 o clock as you look at it. Easy enough job and no need to remove the belt or anything except the upper cover.