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Don't want to go the Life Shine route again!

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Help!

 

I’ve had the Life Shine treatment on a number of cars and with persistence usually managed to get the dealer to sort out issues.  However, I know that I’ve no idea how well the system has been applied and forking out best part of £300 ago seems to be poor value for money.  I’ve tried to read through the many posts on the subject on the forum but I’m still confused.  I need some advice and help in selecting a DIY solution.

As I might have spent the money on the Life Shine I’d be prepared to spend out on getting tools and materials to do the job myself and as I always wash, clean etc. the car myself I don’t see any problems.

So, new car being delivered what’s the best solution?  I’m not looking for a competition finish more good protection and an easy maintenance regime.

Is it worth buying a polisher, say, Kestrel DAS6 or do it by hand (at least I’d have it for the next car)?  Should I apply a sealer?

 

Any help or suggestions, recommendations would be appreciated.

The more protection stuff you put over the paintwork etc, the longer it'll take the elements to get at the paintwork etc..

You won't stop stone chips unless some sort of cover is placed at the front..

What colour is your new addition ?

Edited by giandougl

  • Author

Hi,  Thanks, Jungle Green

Or for similar money you could probably get a pro detailer to apply a ceramic coating which you will just need to top up

  • Author

Thanks Taxboy, I guess that's an option but I'd be faced with trying to find someone who I felt was going to do a good job. There seems to be so many cowboys who pop up or buy into a franchise without much experience. None the less I'll do a search to see who might do it locally.

ernieb,

If you don't mind travelling a bit there's a guy over near Cambridge who is very good. Taking a look through his gallery shows everything coming up spotless, had a few people I know use him too. But he does 'new car details' straight from the showroom, sometimes even travels to the dealers to detail and protect before you pick up!

You're doing the right thing :)

 

I wouldn't expect you to need to use a DA polisher on it, from new. I did, with a light finishing polish - but that's only really because I already have the DA to use :) - so comes down to how much use a new purchase of a DA would get from you?

 

Initial wash, apply a de-iron product, then clay bar, sealant and some finishing coats of wax would be my advice, in this instance.

  • Author

Robt100, thanks for the information, I'd travel if necessary but I'm keen to have ago myself and then do the maintenance. But if that fails a recommendation is always bonus.

Wardy,thanks for the advice. The idea of the DA was as the 500W can be purchased relatively cheaply it would be along term investment for future use etc. I guess the de-iron is to remove the transport crap etc. Would you suggest a soft or medium clay bar as its new paint work? Should I leave the car for a few weeks to allow any surface chemicals to escape, again I've seem conflicting advice on this point. I currently use a snow foam prior to washing so I'd probably use this?

Have mine a good going over yesterday (1300 miles on clock)

Steps I took

1 snow foam

2 megs gold class wash with sheepskin mitt

3 clay mitt (dipped in left over gold class)

4 autoglym super resin polish

5 britemax sealant

6 britemax vantage wax

Probably get everything you need above for £100 (inc towel and applicators) and I'm more than happy with results. Sealant should last 3-6 months they said, so same again mid-end of summer.

Was raining when I finished so got a few early beading photos and it seems to bead very well.

post-138248-0-60446600-1461916079_thumb.jpeg

post-138248-0-11479600-1461916087_thumb.jpeg

post-138248-0-82173500-1461916095_thumb.jpeg

post-138248-0-36752600-1461916123_thumb.jpeg

Edited by mk3vrs

Have mine a good going over yesterday (1300 miles on clock)

Steps I took

1 snow foam

2 megs gold class wash with sheepskin mitt

3 clay mitt (dipped in left over gold class)

4 autoglym super resin polish

5 britemax sealant

6 britemax vantage wax

Probably get everything you need above for £100 (inc towel and applicators) and I'm more than happy with results. Sealant should last 3-6 months they said, so same again mid-end of summer.

Was raining when I finished so got a few early beading photos and it seems to bead very well.

 

 

Sounds good. :thumbup:

 

I like the Britemax Vantage wax - so easy to use and great results;

one that i have kept in my collection for a long time - it's a favourite!

 

For the Britemax Sealant... is that Elements? What did you think of it?

 

Cheers,

Ste.

  • Author

Hi mk3vrs,

Thanks for that information, impressed with the results, it's what I think I'm looking for.

Ernie

For the Britemax Sealant... is that Elements? What did you think of it?

Cheers,

Ste.

Yeah that's the one, couldn't remember exactly which one and couldn't be bothered to go garage. I liked it, goes alon way so don't need to use loads. I like the idea of it giving up to 6 months protection so should keep my 5 or so hours cleaning better longer.

I was a bit unsure on the wax, it was the most expensive one they recommended but glad I went for it, for that 40 he said you should get about 18 applications.

Hi mk3vrs,

Thanks for that information, impressed with the results, it's what I think I'm looking for.

Ernie

Thanks, all done by hand as well no machine polished. If you get the clay mit you may be surprised how smooth your paint already is but worth doing.

Yeah that's the one, couldn't remember exactly which one and couldn't be bothered to go garage. I liked it, goes alon way so don't need to use loads. I like the idea of it giving up to 6 months protection so should keep my 5 or so hours cleaning better longer.

I was a bit unsure on the wax, it was the most expensive one they recommended but glad I went for it, for that 40 he said you should get about 18 applications.

 

 

Nice one - thanks for confirmation.

 

I'm a big Britemax fan..... its often overlooked these days.

 

The following products from them are all very good:-

 

Britemax Cleanmax shampoo

Brtemax Metal twins

Britemax Blackmax light polish/cleanser

Britemax AIO polish/glaze/wax

Britemax Vantage wax

 

:thumbup:

  • Author

mk3vrs, I've never used clay on a car but it seen it referenced by many as a good basic step after washing.  I will definitely give it a try as it seems worthwhile to remove any 'crap' on the surface before sealing.  One issue I might have is that I have to do the work outside as my garage is just not big enough so a bit worried that a sealer might trap particles in the air on the body surface?

 

Thanks samuir1974, I'll look those up.  I'm a bit OCD so using things from a single product range might appeal!

Edited by ernieb

mk3vrs, I've never used clay on a car but it seen it referenced by many as a good basic step after washing.  I will definitely give it a try as it seems worthwhile to remove any 'crap' on the surface before sealing.  One issue I might have is that I have to do the work outside as my garage is just not big enough so a bit worried that a sealer might trap particles in the air on the body surface?

 

Thanks samuir1974, I'll look those up.  I'm a bit OCD so using things from a single product range might appeal!

don't worry about clay bars. Recently used a Bilt Hamber Soft clay bar outdoors on my old Fabia after feeling a few spots on the roof. Lubricated with water and done in straight lines with no real pressure it worked a treat; the roof felt like glass so i gave it a wash and dry then applied Bilt Hamber Double Speed wax. Sheds water so easily. Car has now gone to be replaced by a new 1.2 TSI SE Colour Concept model but the weather is preventing me from giving it the treatment. Will be giving that Obsession Phantom wax as an LSP.

  • Author

Hi Flopsy, Thanks, I've been looking at various 'clay' products and the Bilt Hamber seems to get good reviews and is value for money. I figured that the soft would be enough for a new car and maintenance unless the car gets badly contaminated.

Hi Flopsy, Thanks, I've been looking at various 'clay' products and the Bilt Hamber seems to get good reviews and is value for money. I figured that the soft would be enough for a new car and maintenance unless the car gets badly contaminated.

It was the first time I had ever used a clay bar and was pleased with the ease of use and 'safety' of the product. I sometimes think that i worry too much...

Yep, the Bilt Hamber bars are recommended. Work well with just water for lubrication as well.

 

As you've said, the soft version will be fine.

 

You could also consider getting the dealership to not touch the car upon delivery. That's what I did, so there's not a risk of the dealer unintentionally adding damage as they prepare the car for the new owner :)

 

The car will have quite a journey from the assembly line and might have lengths of time parked up by rail lines, docks etc - so although it is 'new' you might well find quite a lot of contamination attached! I certainly had a load of iron fallout on mine....

To give you an idea, this is how I picked mine up....

 

post-3659-0-86252500-1461944386_thumb.jpg

 

post-3659-0-43309900-1461944390_thumb.jpg

  • Author

Thanks Wardy, I might well go down the same route but might want the plastic fil m off to inspect the body work just in case it's hiding anything awfull! The iron decontamination seems like a good idea a small relative cost for peace of mind. I'm beginning to get a good idea of the way forward as looking at manufacturers products pages is so confusing with multiple products that seem to do the same thing!

+1 on the above. A good clean and detox followed by a light claying should be enough to prep your car, followed y the sealent/wax of your choice. I use a farecla clay mit which I find both really easy and quick too. If you do decide to get a DA you can get the DA-6 pro for around £100 from clean your car on the DW group buy offer

  • Author

Hi litleade, thanks for the information.

Thanks Wardy, I might well go down the same route but might want the plastic fil m off to inspect the body work just in case it's hiding anything awfull! The iron decontamination seems like a good idea a small relative cost for peace of mind. I'm beginning to get a good idea of the way forward as looking at manufacturers products pages is so confusing with multiple products that seem to do the same thing!

 

Yep, fair shout. A happy medium might be to remove the film when you arrive for collection....

 

And the dealer should want to make sure the windows are cleaned of any transport film/gunk before you set off, for obvious safety reasons :thumbup:

 

As you say, with de-iron products there's plenty out there! I've used Iron X, Wolf's Deironizor and Bilt Hamber's Korrosol. Personally, I think BH's the best - e.g. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine-and-exterior/bilt-hamber-korrosol-iron-remover-1-litre-/prod_1338.html

 

Also, if you're ordering their clay anyway, you can add it to the order. Also check their own website, as you can order direct which I like. Worth checking around though, as direct isn't always the best price :)

  • Author

Thanks Wardy for the link and recommendations.  Nice easy to use web site I've been looking at the BH products as well as the Britemax.

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