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vrs wont start

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Hi guys, ill start from the beginning. Changed the oil and filters on Sunday on the trusty vrs and all appeared to go fine. Was driving to edinburgh today from teeside and stopped off at berwick to put some air in the tires, did this whilst the engine was running(dont know if this is important). After about 10 minutes the traction control light came on the dash and wouldnt go off but the car still drove fine, got to destinationand went to work. Three hours later got in the car and all appeared fine, again after about ten minutes the TC light came on but again the car drove fine, then after about five minutes just as i pulled into the hotel the steering wheel light on the dash came on and the steering hardly worked, parked up and turned the engine off. tried to turn it over to see if the problem persisted but the car now refuses to start, the clock and mileage readouts just show a couple of lines once the key is turned, any idea what the problem may be?

Thankyou

Start with the basics,either charge the battery or get some jump leads on it then try it again :)

Sounds like the dreaded broken load sense wire problem that continues to elude the fecking search engine as if it's never happened before.

 

I swear we get one every week.

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See if the battery light comes on when you turn on the ignition. (It should, then should go out if/when the engine starts).

Sounds like the dreaded broken load sense wire problem that continues to elude the fecking search engine as if it's never happened before.

 

I swear we get one every week.

 

Playing devils advocate, if knowledge isn't so common it can't be common knowledge/sense.

 

Where on the stickies is this post ? Where on the useful thread is it ?

 

Surely if it comes up so often would make sense to make a sticky post or add to the useful thread......

I wonder if it could be double whammy both wiring issues failing prematurely but at the same time lol, solenoid wire AND the load wire ;)

 

Both could find a home on the "useful"? Fabia thread.....I'd put them at the top personally, they are somewhat more important than half the threads on there.....

I'm thinking battery load sensor wire,hence why I suggested charging battery/jump starting as a first thing to do.

If it did get it running then would be the time to find out if the battery light was working as it should be :)

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Hi fellas thanks for the replys, the battery light does not come on, however the car started when i tried it last, i tried twice and both attempts the car started and drove fine even though i only drove it about ten metres.

 

Your thoughts?

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Both the signal wires to/from the alternator have broken, almost certainly at the connector pair on the bracket on the front of the gearbox.  The blue wire, when busted, results in the battery light not coming on at ignition on, and the alternator not starting up reliably, so your battery will not have been getting enough juice since that broke.  The other wire, the load sense one, when busted gives you the TC warning light ten minutes after start up.

 

Find the broken bits and mend them, charge up the battery in the meantime if you have a battery charger.  This thread may help you find the busted wires: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/287467-load-signal-alternator-cable/page-1#entry4349689  pics at post #14

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Thanks Wino, couple of questions.

 

Is the car safe to drive in the mean time, is it possible the power steering will fail when I am driving?

 

Also is this a job for an auto electrician and how much am I looking to pay to get the job done?

 

Thanks pal, i appreciate it

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Unless you can get some charge into the battery it'll probably struggle to start in the morning, and yes, the power steering may well shut down while motoring, I'm afraid.

If you're not happy joining some busted wires yourself then probably best to get an expert on the case. Shouldn't take long though, so ought not to be too much cash. Got any handy mates that could sort it for you?

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i could have a go at fixing it but im in edinburgh working so need it doing ASAP, ill ring an auto electrician tomorrow.

 

thanks for all ur help

Just go equipped with pictures off here of the connector you want removing,it does not really need another connector fitting in its place.

Just needs the wires connecting together reliably and perhaps adding a small piece of wire in if the loom is tight.

it's a maximum of half an hours work to someone with the correct tools.

Edited by coskev

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Just go equipped with pictures off here of the connector you want removing,it does not really need another connector fitting in its place.

Just needs the wires connecting together reliably and perhaps adding a small piece of wire in if the loom is tight.

it's a maximum of half an hours work to someone with the correct tools.

That's a good call. Otherwise you might find you're being told you need a new alternator, a new battery, etc. etc. if the autospark hasn't come across this fault before, and doesn't know where to look.

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Hi guys, could this be fixed using a chock block? phoned an auto electrician and he said it sounded like either busted wires or a new alternator which rings true with what you guys are saying. He charges £45 an hour and that includes his travel so could be best part of £100, if i could save that and get back to teeside where i can get a pal to do it that would be best for me. Sorry if this is an ameteurish question.

 

Thankyou

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Yes. As a temporary fix more or less anything will do.

Yeah like even twisting pairs of some extra wire on temporarily haha

To be honest if you've ever soldered wire and then wrapped it up with tape, that is basically all your doing (with more time and attention the better it will last, as per all jobs).

The most difficult bit ( if it can be called difficult) is identifying the broken wires. I think I was particularly myopic though when I had to recently fix the issue #2 wasn't I Wino :)

 

Pity to get ripped off for unnecessary jobs when you can rule out such very basic DIY electrical work

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Decided Im gonna take it to a garage, iv got no way of getting under the car as im away from home and dont fancy working under it with a jack in place, how much am I likely looking at for a repair of this nature?

 

Thanks

Just look in the local paper and call a mobile mechanic to come out to the car and fix it while you work. Quick and cheap.

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