Hello all,

i have had to have my 62 plate vrs tdi back in today for a safety inspection my little girl got her arm/skin stuck between the rear window going up and the side, Skoda thought it should release automatic and come back down turns out not after testing more cars report sent in and waiting to here back.

 

While car was in they did a safety check said i am close to needing 3 new tyres they are all between 3-4 mm and my front discs are excessively worn on front and amber on back. surley they last longer than this never changed them on my golf gttdi till 80k.Anyone had to change theirs so early?    

Had to change mine on a 62 plate fabia tdi 23k last year . Had to change front disks and pads had to change rear brake shoes.This was due to corrosion due to not using the brakes enough.I have never had this problem with any of my other cars cost was £420 all in. I have been told by the dealers that once a week I should take the car up to 50mph then when it's safe to do so do an emergency stop to clean the brakes.

A number of Octy II owners getting 70, 80k plus out of brakes, so maybe you're just unlucky with yours. My front discs were changed just after 70k; IIRC garage said they weren't worn down but were corroding on the inner face.

I have the same car as you, year / VRS.

Mine lasted 80.000. were changed as the disks had a "lip"

Think we got around 60,000 miles from ours. They could have done more but the pads needed changed so I just replaced the lot with Pagid disks and pads all round. The old disks would not have lasted for another set of pads, perhaps another 20,000 miles at a push. Well impressed with the Pagid brakes.

Says on the report pads 20% worn front discs excessively lipped on inner and rear slightly lipped. I have had the car 1 year so wonder if they just threw a new set of pads in before I got it.

Just been on mtecbrake website and can get set of drilled and grooved for 85 pound do u guys think these will last any longer and give a better brake ?

Mine is on 70k and the rear discs are still the original ones, They visibly look a little rusty on the edges, but have never even flagged up an advisory on the MOT as yet.

Just been on mtecbrake website and can get set of drilled and grooved for 85 pound do u guys think these will last any longer and give a better brake ?

 

As far as I know, these holes are there just to reduce weight.

Brake pads are said to wear faster with drilled or grooved discs.

Ask them for the measurements.

 

I've certainly had BS over disc wear more than a few times from main dealers.

 

At BMW they only look at the computer they don't even measure them. Computer looks at the miles you've done and how many times you've hit the brakes then guesses if you need brakes or not. Tech then suggests you get them at stupidly inflated prices.

Tech looked bleeding sheepish when I asked him to explain and he hadn't even looked at them. Car did another 2yr on the same disks and still had them on when it was sold.

If there is a lip on the disks, go round the outside edge with a hammer and the rusty lip will fall off. It needs a sharp tap right round the edge on both sides of the disk. They will be like new.

If there is a lip on the disks, go round the outside edge with a hammer and the rusty lip will fall off. It needs a sharp tap right round the edge on both sides of the disk. They will be like new.

 

I've used this technique for years.  I learned this as a nipper when working with my dad on cars as I was growing up.  I first remember doing this on a Mk2 Escort. I last did it on my Vectra VXR before I sold it last month.  It's lasted me over 30 years and as long as I have cars with steel discs I'm sure I'll keep using it.

^{Replaced pads and discs all round on my Octy at 58K there....passed the MOT, but advisory to get them replaced as rear discs were......well, had a raised line on the disc on one side and the other had part of the disc staying unworn. Guess there was a problem with the original pads (Bosch) or something....maybe a soft spot in them. Still the car was braking fine and passed the MOT......spent the £400 to get the whole lot replaced......}

Edited 9 May, 201610 yr by Johnny_BoomBoom

Modern sintered metal pads last well but are brutal on disks, It may be that some are even more so than others.

Having been old enough to start driving in the days of asbestos pads I was used to replacing pads regularly (a lot of enthusiastic braking then) but very seldom replacing disks. A pair of disks would easily see out six pad changes. Now due to scoring and corrosion I find that by the time a pair of pads is ready for changing so are the disks.

 

I do live near the coast so the evil effects of salt air do make this worse. If I leave my handbrake on overnight (which I don't) there is a good chance that rust will bond the pads and disks together, two days and guaranteed stuck together.

 

It was a good thing to get rid of the asbestos but do not find the current materials to be very good. I would like to think there was ongoing R&D into a good performing, fade resistant, safe material which is easier on the pads. I doubt though that this is a priority for manufacturers or parts suppliers.

 A pair of disks would easily see out six pad changes. Now due to scoring and corrosion I find that by the time a pair of pads is ready for changing so are the disks. 

 

Been a long time since I've changed pads and not disks now.

Some times disks can be really poor. The Clio I had wore out the front disks faster than the front tyres

Really can't work out why some cars are going through the disks so quick. My 54 plate Octy is just shy of 70k, and is on the original discs, with only a slight hint of a lip showing on the fronts. The pads were only changed because rust had seized them into the caliper carrier and had worn on one side -- they were changed at 66k and on the side which was free the pads were barely half worn. The 08 plate must have had a harder life before I got it, as I needed to totally repad it at around 42k. Bosch pads were fitted. Now on around 63k, and the pads are still like new, as are the discs themselves.

 

Mike

Cos some people do not look ahead, Mike, and slow down as they approach red lights.

 

They wait until they are almost underneath them and then slam their brakes on. And then wonder why they are always needing new brakes. (this is not aimed at anyone specifically).

Others use their brakes unnecessarily, even seeming to brake for no reason at all. (and I do not drive up peoples bottoms, unless they are driving annoyingly slow for no reason).

70k miles on my car. Was serviced about three weeks ago and during the inspection I was told all absolutely fine. Some very slight warping on one disk, but no action required.

Original pads, plenty of meat left.

Probably we can't blame the topic creator for unnecessary braking - he said that brake discs lasted much longer on his other car.

Sure, nobody's sure that this car isn't way more powerful (needs more braking), no other people use it (wife) or driving habits have changed (or maybe he's living in other place)...

I've just replaced discs all round at 47k on my 11 plate.

 

Fronts were advisory due to corrosion on the inside face. The wear on the old discs and pads showed they were clearly not making contact correctly. Rears weren't in NEED of replaceement. Changed discs and pads all round - Mtec black coated and Pagid pads.

Modern sintered metal pads last well but are brutal on disks, It may be that some are even more so than others.

Having been old enough to start driving in the days of asbestos pads I was used to replacing pads regularly (a lot of enthusiastic braking then) but very seldom replacing disks. A pair of disks would easily see out six pad changes. Now due to scoring and corrosion I find that by the time a pair of pads is ready for changing so are the disks.

 

I do live near the coast so the evil effects of salt air do make this worse. If I leave my handbrake on overnight (which I don't) there is a good chance that rust will bond the pads and disks together, two days and guaranteed stuck together.

 

It was a good thing to get rid of the asbestos but do not find the current materials to be very good. I would like to think there was ongoing R&D into a good performing, fade resistant, safe material which is easier on the pads disks. I doubt though that this is a priority for manufacturers or parts suppliers.

correction    

I reckon the dsg plays a factor with its engine braking.

My previous car, an astra with a conventional auto gearbox, i had to change the discs at 45k.

With my current RS, with a dsg-6, i use my brakes far far less. I changed them at 80k only because i wanted less dusty pads. They still had more life in em.

Probably we can't blame the topic creator for unnecessary braking - he said that brake discs lasted much longer on his other car.

Sure, nobody's sure (the Op would be) that this car isn't way more powerful (needs more braking), no other people use it (wife) or driving habits have changed (or maybe he's living in other place)...

A 'way more powerful' car doesn't need more braking than any other similar car if they are driven similarly!

 

A heavier car may, but it is much more to do with how it is driven. We can (nearly) all drive at 100mph if we want (illegally though of course), probably needing more braking.

Still no blame intended though!

70k miles on my car. Was serviced about three weeks ago and during the inspection I was told all absolutely fine. Some very slight warping on one disk, but no action required.

Original pads, plenty of meat left.

Surely the warped disc shows on the steering wheel when braking, no?

Beware. I chipped off the rusty lips on Renault 18 discs using a small ball peen hammer in the 1980s.1000 miles later both front wheel bearings expired big time. A coincidence? I have never tried it again.