What is the evaporator temperature showing as being - that would tell you if there if enough gas in the system to do some work - if not enough?  Also if you are not getting any increase in gas pressure from when the engine is stopped to when there is a demand for cooling, then as Wino suggests, is the compressor doing anything or is it being driven.

 

Getting this system regassed, I'm guessing that you got this done today and they recovered the gas load, vac'd out the system to dry it and prove that it will hold its gas load, then reloaded with the correct weight of R134a?

Not 100% as I haven't looked into it or seen one where it's 'gone'. I think someone once described it as the pulley going round as normal, but the central shaft not rotating, not sure which end of the shaft can be seen. Will pop out and have a look now.

 

Maybe shine a bright light on the shaft when the engine is stopped and try again when the engine is running?

 

Best way will be to remove the drive belt and rotate the pulley by hand - you should feel a slight load on the pulley as you turn it.

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by rum4mo

What is the evaporator temperature showing as being - that would tell you if there if enough gas in the system to do some work - if not enough? Also if you are not getting any increase in gas pressure from when the engine is stopped to when there is a demand for cooling, then as Wino suggests, is the compressor doing anything or is it being driven.

Getting this system regassed, I'm guessing that you got this done today and they recovered the gas load, vac'd out the system to dry it and prove that it will hold its gas load, then reloaded with the correct weight of R134a?

G263 (EVAP temp) is showing as 23 deg, which is basically same temp as cabin.

Yes, it was loaded with correct gas load and showed to hold it under vacuum.

Next stop. Check compressor ... The bit in middle of pulley spins freely with engine off.

Ah, if that evaporator temperature of 23C is shown when the chilling is being asked for, then the cabin air is not going to get too cold!

 

Edit:- so it sounds like you have found that the compressor is seized - oh bother!!

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by rum4mo

Ah, if that evaporator temperature of 23C is shown when the chilling is being asked for, then the cabin air is not going to get too cold!

Edit:- so it sounds like you have found that the compressor is seized - oh bother!!

How do you know it's seized? The centre bit is supposed to spin when engine running?

Oh! Sorry but I read it that you checked that the centre could spin with the engine stopped!

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by rum4mo

There's an M6(?) bolthead in the centre of the pulley that should turn with the pulley, is yours?

There's an M6(?) bolthead in the centre of the pulley that should turn with the pulley, is yours?

Yes, I can turn that by hand with engine off ... A little stiff but moves.... Does that mean it is ok?

Oh! Sorry but I read it that you checked that the centre could spin with the engine stopped!

I did ...

If it moves without the pulley turning/belt moving, I'd say that's not good news.

 

Start it up with AC on and see if that M6 spins with the pulley. Edit, AC doesn't need to be on, thinking about it. Either on or off should still have all visible bits of that pulley going round.

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by Wino

Main pulley obviously rotates with engine running ... Centre bit doesn't?

Time to find A N other compressor, I fear.

 

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by Wino

So looks like the compressor is dead?

I assume the middle bit is supposed to spin with engine running? Explains why no compression shown on VCDS measuring blocks ...

Sounds like the shaft has snapped perhaps?

Time to find A N other compressor, I fear.

Looks like it ... They don't seem cheap either ... Will also need to have gas removed now as well to change it.

:(

It is a bummer. I edited a little image into my previous post that explains the system.  Not really sure it's a wise design to destroy the compressor instead of the belt, but hey-ho, guess it drives the water pump on lots of the engines.

 

:'( 

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by Wino

Appreciate the help though ... Learnt a bit about the old girl ...

I suspect I will source a secondhand compressor will be the best option... Fit it then check that the fans kick in properly when the pressure rises / drops to ensure all is well.

Thanks for all the help. Will get a compressor then update post.

Reckon I'd do the same.  See if anyone on here is selling one/ breaking a car with one?

Reckon I'd do the same. See if anyone on here is selling one/ breaking a car with one?

Will do ...

Could always try supergluing the bits of this one...? Not sure quite how daft that might be.

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by Wino

Could always try supergluing the bits of this one...? Not sure quite how daft that might be.

TBH the compressor has done 148,000 miles ... Replacing it won't hurt.

I'm trying to find out if it is a shared component across platform or if it's specific to vRS and even engine type.... ASZ / BLT ?

Anyone know?

TBH the compressor has done 148,000 miles ... Replacing it won't hurt.

I'm trying to find out if it is a shared component across platform or if it's specific to vRS and even engine type.... ASZ / BLT ?

Anyone know?

Pretty sure all models have the same Denso compressor, nothing tells me otherwise in my AC workshop manual. Remember when replacing the compressor you really need to get the system flushed and the dryer replaced.

Edited 11 June, 201610 yr by Dazza95

Could always try supergluing the bits of this one...? Not sure quite how daft that might be.

I was thinking the same -perhaps not superglue but if the compressor turns OK with the pulley off -no seize/graunching /grinding etc  then I may be worth a try    however  from what I can see 2006 model still seems to run the constant vol' type ie has an electric clutch   if it can be sorted without venting etc so much the better   watching with baited breath

It's a variable displacement pump, solenoid valve (N280) controlled as far as I understand, so it always spins, but N280 regulates the amount of refrigerant flow?

I would definitely be trying to take apart things and see what the damage looks like if it were mine!

 

Looking at etkacc, there seems to be two options for a 2006 Fabia, one for the 3-pot petrols (engine codes BMD, BME) and another for everything else.

6q0820808F seems like what OP should seek (the X on the end of some of the other numbers just means an exchange part).

that explains it---re above pic there seems to be a deformable/shearable rubber safety in there------------whereas an earlier one I saw a pic of appeared to be fairly fragile metal like a flattish 3 blade propeller