Skip to content

Moving battery to boot

Featured Replies

So I'm moving the battery to the boot of my Fabia vRS. The battery is where I want it, I've made a fuse box to keep the fuses where they were. I was just wondering what kind of cable to use for both the main positive and the shorter red cable that comes off it, as I'm looking to extend the cables and reconnect the cable that came from the fuse tray. Anyone already done this, what's the procedure? How think should the cable be to prevent amp loss? Etc etc..

Thanks

Jacob

It's for better weight distribution as well, saves the questions

Edited by Oz9

You can go with a pack of capacitors instead of a standard battery, less than 1/10th of the weight and a lot less space.

its not just about the cables, you need to consider the battery.

 

your battery may emit dangerous gases when charging, which when in the engine bay is no problem as the battery is open to atmosphere. However you've now moved the battery into an enclosed space and may need to deal with the situation or you may end up passing out and crashing or a spark, boom. Look up the specs of the battery currently fitted, and make sure it does not have the requirement of being vented. If it does you'll need to replace the battery with one that does not.

 

Devonutopia has moved his to the back of his Fabia, you only need to get the positive cable to the front of the car. The negative can be dealt with locally in the engine bay and boot with no run required.

its not just about the cables, you need to consider the battery.

 

your battery may emit dangerous gases when charging, which when in the engine bay is no problem as the battery is open to atmosphere. However you've now moved the battery into an enclosed space and may need to deal with the situation or you may end up passing out and crashing or a spark, boom. Look up the specs of the battery currently fitted, and make sure it does not have the requirement of being vented. If it does you'll need to replace the battery with one that does not.

 

Devonutopia has moved his to the back of his Fabia, you only need to get the positive cable to the front of the car. The negative can be dealt with locally in the engine bay and boot with no run required.

Yes I've done something similar to mine, just used a different fuse holder in the engine bay as this smartens up the bay. It now looks far more OE than modified and the space it makes is unbelievable especially when you look at other Fabia bays. Their is enough threads on this being discussed so your better off doing a Google search then asking questions that they don't answer.

  • Author

its not just about the cables, you need to consider the battery.

 

your battery may emit dangerous gases when charging, which when in the engine bay is no problem as the battery is open to atmosphere. However you've now moved the battery into an enclosed space and may need to deal with the situation or you may end up passing out and crashing or a spark, boom. Look up the specs of the battery currently fitted, and make sure it does not have the requirement of being vented. If it does you'll need to replace the battery with one that does not.

 

Devonutopia has moved his to the back of his Fabia, you only need to get the positive cable to the front of the car. The negative can be dealt with locally in the engine bay and boot with no run required.

Thank you, I get that and I think the battery I'm using is ok not being vented but I'll double check it. It more to do with the little red wire that comes off the positive terminal and onto the back of the fuse tray, do you even need it and if so how can I power it?

Have a look in my Fabia build thread. I've moved mine to the boot.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Sponsor

Thank you, I get that and I think the battery I'm using is ok not being vented but I'll double check it. It more to do with the little red wire that comes off the positive terminal and onto the back of the fuse tray, do you even need it and if so how can I power it?

Got a picture?

Run a cable (150A rated) to the starter motor. Then its basically how it is as standard, the cable from the starter to the fuse box powers the fuses thats all..

9c389f69a95391f6c6472ec0ff927f58.jpg

f686b3e707f9ef14e73b2703427e4558.jpg

e69d11f7c26fb87d2f5ce10fb0006267.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by pip_vrs

My cable us smaller cause i dont have to start a big massive deisel lump

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That crimped lug looks a bit jerry to me.

You need a proper hydraulic crimper on that ;) and a bit of heat shrink to neaten it up

That crimped lug looks a bit jerry to me.

You need a proper hydraulic crimper on that ;) and a bit of heat shrink to neaten it up

ce9b73833a784483ecb65f4cfbc675ea.jpg

Heat shrink i agree [emoji12]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Author

Run a cable (150A rated) to the starter motor. Then its basically how it is as standard, the cable from the starter to the fuse box powers the fuses thats all..9c389f69a95391f6c6472ec0ff927f58.jpgf686b3e707f9ef14e73b2703427e4558.jpge69d11f7c26fb87d2f5ce10fb0006267.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the pictures really helped. So it's just a case of running a cable from under the fuse tray (that would originally sit on the battery) to the starter then? Then I'm assuming I'll have an uncle named Bob

Mine cable will have to be thicker because I am starting a diesel lump, a diesel lump I love

Edited by Oz9

  • Author

Got a picture?

Yes. It's the cable underneath that junction/terminal/fuse. Can a cable just be run directly to the starter for those fuses?

I know it seems fussy, I just don't want to end up slapping it together and starting it and fuses and cable start melting.post-136197-0-53724100-1466031616_thumb.pngpost-136197-0-53724100-1466031616_thumb.png

Yes. It's the cable underneath that junction/terminal/fuse. Can a cable just be run directly to the starter for those fuses?

I know it seems fussy, I just don't want to end up slapping it together and starting it and fuses and cable start melting.attachicon.gifimage.pngattachicon.gifimage.png

 

How?

ce9b73833a784483ecb65f4cfbc675ea.jpg

Heat shrink i agree [emoji12]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not too bad looked a bit jerry from the pics you uploaded i thought you had used one of those crappy brute force operated numbers

  • Sponsor

Yes. It's the cable underneath that junction/terminal/fuse. Can a cable just be run directly to the starter for those fuses?

I know it seems fussy, I just don't want to end up slapping it together and starting it and fuses and cable start melting.attachicon.gifimage.pngattachicon.gifimage.png

Yeah, that sounds like what you need. Super-thick main live from battery to starter, then another nearly as thick from same terminal on starter to back of that fuse busbar.

 

The thin voltage sensing wires, one right on the negative clamp, the other coming off fuse 10 on that battery fuseholder would ideally be extended with dedicated thin wires all the way to the battery clamps in the boot (the +ve one having its 5 amp fuse moved to right next to the battery clamp), but I doubt it will matter much in practice. The point of those two little wires is to give the Onboard Supply Control Unit the 'cleanest' possible  view of battery voltage, unaffected by current flow in other wiring/chassis. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.