I just measured the dc resistance (with a multimeter) of one of my Celestion Ditton 3 (3-way) speakers in the living room, nominally 8 Ohms. Reading was 7.2 after subtracting meter lead resistance, with amp disconnected.  

 

Used to be the case that cars were fitted with rubbish stereo (or none at all - yes, I am that old!) and upgrading was easy and straightforward.

 

These days they still fit rubbish stereos and make it damn hard to upgrade. That's progress.

 

Probably the riskiest thing I ever did was flashing - literally - the earth on an original mini from positive to negative for a Pye cassette player.

 

 

I posted this on another thread on Briskoda yesterday, about upgrading Boleros.

 

 

 

(Easier than typing it all out again.)

I still have a Nakamichi in the attic that I'll never ever ever be able to fit to anything but I can't give it up.

I still have a Nakamichi in the attic that I'll never ever ever be able to fit to anything but I can't give it up.

 

That takes me back 

 

I've still got a TD1200 mk2 that we used to use in sound-offs back then. Its still in the car I had then and I cant give that up either 

Emma? Iasca?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_characteristics_of_dynamic_loudspeakers

I just noticed we are up to page 2 and no one has yet answered my original question :D

...it's ok, at some point I will answer it myself

See here

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/340574-canton-subwoofer/page-2#entry4446640

See here

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/340574-canton-subwoofer/page-2#entry4446640

 

Thanks, that is EXACTLY what I needed, but also, this already shows me I am screwed - The regular system has a 4ohm speaker there and I have a 2ohm aftermarket speaker from a previous car or the (oddly strange) 8ohm Canton speakers I got from a breaker (??)

...need to find some 4ohm after market alternatives - will try to change woofer and tweeter also, but need to find a suitable replacement set.

 

----

 

...or is it? I just noticed that the diagram you posted is for the mkII Octavia and not for the mkIII... we can assume it is the same, but, it is still an assumption

Edited 20 June, 20169 yr by Jaco2k

I am surprised the Canton speakers are 8 Ohm ... but I can tell you the Mk3 door unit tweeters are definitely 4 Ohm, the door unit mid-rangers are almost certainly 4 Ohm also. 

 

Not sure about your 2 Ohm jobber but you can probably find an amp to suit it? 

Any of the two options I have here must be better.

As we are here - does anyone know if the signal sent to the front speakers is crossovered by the headunit and sent to the speakers as high and low, or does the headunit send one signal per channel and then there is a crossover in the doors?

It's a very simple system. Just one pair of wires per door, the tweeter is wired in parallel with the mid range unit, and there is a capacitor in series with the tweeter so it only takes the high frequency.

So... This means we can either get a pair of components with a passive crossover in there or, some full range speakers on the doors.

Hmmmmmm

The sound system in the Mrk 3 compared to my Mrk2 is complete crap that's my only gripe with the car.

Like on songs with high bass when then kicks in the stereo quietens it.

Surly this can be adjusted with VCDS. ?