Not sure about the manifold, beyond that it will mean that you'd be losing exhaust before the turbo and lambda which might affect fuelling, and could give you some black smoke on high throttle low revs.

The valves seemed ok , I've got two new ones on order so will replace anyway . I noticed earlier when I go around a roundabout it smokes more . I'm thinking that as the oil is pushed to the left side it gets worse which would add up to the number 4 being oily and valve seals gone on 4 . More oil over there on right turns ? Will check at the wkend when I change manifold .

No codes apart from sai , but that's because I've deleted it , planning on getting it mapped out at stage 2 . I've just had all the breather hoses out and cleaned the valves , they weren't too bad to be fair . This turbo hose is it ok to just remove it and clean then put back on or will it have to be primed again ? Cheers

You wouldn't need to prime it, as it just runs excess oil back into the sump, it's just a metal pipe about 6/7/8 inches long. Can just blow air through it and see of any gunk comes through

Ideal I'll give it a go thanks saint ????

Just received new hockey puck valve and it operates differently to my old one , fingers crossed ????

The valves seemed ok , I've got two new ones on order so will replace anyway . I noticed earlier when I go around a roundabout it smokes more . I'm thinking that as the oil is pushed to the left side it gets worse which would add up to the number 4 being oily and valve seals gone on 4 . More oil over there on right turns ? Will check at the wkend when I change manifold .

 

Unlikely, sumps are usually baffled to prevent oil surge and sloshing around when cornering

Damn I thought I might be lucky , when I cleaned old one yesterday I did a blow suck test and it's just stays open . The new one is a one way valve that closes when sucked ? Cant be helping .

Well I've changed hockey puck valve and the one way valve under inlet manifold , still smoking ???? but bloody hell it's running so much better , more clean strong boost feels more torquey . The hockey puck had failed I think . Going to change manifold at the wkend and clean the turbo oil return pipe and try again .

Unlikely, sumps are usually baffled to prevent oil surge and sloshing around when cornering

Reduce, not eliminate, but that's arguing semantics rather than principles.

How much did that cost?

The valve under the inlet manifold was £3 the purge valve in the tip was £14 , it's made a hell of a difference to the car , but unfortunately not cured my oil problem .

I would monitor the smoking for a day or two, as the exhaust may still be burning any oil out of the system if the breather has been malfunctioning, and pooling oil inside the exhaust boxes.

 

Just out of interest, is the smoking noticeably worse after an overnight stand as against a warm restart that may have been standing an hour or so?.

There is no smoke from cold , just the usual white condensation vapour , its when it gets up to temperature that the smoke starts .

The valve under the inlet manifold was £3 the purge valve in the tip was £14 , it's made a hell of a difference to the car , but unfortunately not cured my oil problem .

Have you got the part numbers handy at all?

PCV breather valve 035 103 245 G

Purge valve O6A 129 101 D

Got mine from ebay .

There is no smoke from cold , just the usual white condensation vapour , its when it gets up to temperature that the smoke starts .

Guide seals will usually manifest themselves the most on an overnight cold start, as the oil creeps past the seals and runs into the combustion chamber down the valve guides and valves.

 

From the description you are giving of lack of smoke when cold and an oily number 4 plug, I am starting to wonder if you have a stuck or broken oil control ring, but that is presuming the fault carries on an does not sort itself after new breather valves.

 

Just a thought here, as your dad is an engineer, can he lay his hands or a boroscope to have a look down the plug hole at the bore to see what the condition is like?, if a ring is picking up, you may see some register marks.

Edited 20 October, 20169 yr by kentphil1

Guide seals will usually manifest themselves the most on an overnight cold start, as the oil creeps past the seals and runs into the combustion chamber down the valve guides and valves.

 

From the description you are giving of lack of smoke when cold and an oily number 4 plug, I am starting to wonder if you have a stuck or broken oil control ring, but that is presuming the fault carries on an does not sort itself after new breather valves.

 

Just a thought here, as your dad is an engineer, can he lay his hands or a boroscope to have a look down the plug hole at the bore to see what the condition is like?, if a ring is picking up, you may see some register marks.

I'd expect #4 to show as down on compression on a dry test if that was the case. Still, maybe give it a shot of upper cylinder lubricant to see if that helps?

I know what you mean, but when we pulled down my son's cupra r unit, 2 pistons had free compression rings in the grooves, but almost fully stuck oil control rings and that was pulling down 165 - 170 compressions with no problems at all whilst smoking at idle.

 

Agree also with the upper lube idea, as in this situation you have everything to gain and nothing to lose.

 

I am just puzzled why one cylinder is oily but not noticeably down on compression.

 

No smoke till it is warm is more a piston thing I have found in the past, could be turbo seals, but I would expect all 4 cylinders to share the oil contamination then.

 

At the end of the day, there are a lot of suggestions on here from quite a few of us for the OP and his dad to try, and as his dad is already an engineer, I'm sure he will eliminate them in a logical fashion and keep the best suggestions for internal damage till last.

 

I will say to the OP that I do not disagree with Ken, so if I give the impression of that then please don't take it that way as I think both of us mean well and I don't want to confuse you.

Edited 21 October, 20169 yr by kentphil1

Fitted the high flow manifold today ( what a nightmare ) , couldn't see anything of significance in the ports , removed turbo oil return pipe and that's clean as a whistle , still smoking no change there . What is this upper lube and what does it entail ? Cheers guys .

I haven't used upper cylinder lube for about 15 years, so I am certain that the delivery method may have changed since I used it so Ken may be more current than me for the actual question, but it used to be delivered mixed into the fuel tank and then run for a given amount of miles.

Im starting to think that its either oil ring on 4 , or turbo seals , like you said if it was valve seals it would leak overnight and smoke on cold start but its not . now which one to do first ? Both going to entail significant cost and labour .

I haven't used upper cylinder lube for about 15 years, so I am certain that the delivery method may have changed since I used it so Ken may be more current than me for the actual question, but it used to be delivered mixed into the fuel tank and then run for a given amount of miles.

Hi there again , how much pressure should be coming from cam cover oil cap on tickover ? There seems to be a lot of pressure when I remove oil cap when running ? Could this explain my oil problem ? Would it point to anything in particular ? PCV is all clear and new valves fitted . Cheers guys .

There will be a certain amount of pressure as standard, but it should not blow your hand off, I will check my one tomorrow and let you know.

 

The valve will not do much at idle as it is about 80% closed, and wont fully open until the engine experiences a depression and creates vacuum to open the valve.

 

The reason I am hesitant to say turbo seals is that only one cylinder appears affected, or are the other plug bodies oily but not so much?. Does that cylinder experience a big difference in compression test figure when the engine is warm?.

Edited 23 October, 20169 yr by kentphil1

I'm not sure , I'm going to check again this week , do a test when warm as that is when the problems start . What is the exact procedure for compression test ? Ive heard about putting oil in the chamber as well . Thanks .