From the original Fabia-vrs site: Parts you will need are –

6x Skoda hexagon head bolt c/w shoulder M8x26 (Part Number -N101 277 07) - 7 on Diagram 1

2x Skoda shouldered hex nut self-locking M12x1.5 (Part Number – N101 064 02) - 11 on Diagram 1

2x Skoda hexagon nut self-locking M12x1.5 (Part Number – N903 213 02) - 18 on Diagram 2

2x Skoda shouldered hex nut self-locking M10x1.5 (Part Number – N909 081 01) - Part 19 unclear on D1 - see D3 as 17a instead

2x Skoda shouldered hex nut self-locking M10 (Part Number – N102 861 02 ) - Part 9 on Diagram 4

 

Diagram 1

http://etka.cc/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2006/drive_standart/453/hg_ug/411/subcategory/411020/part_id/2562471/lang/e

 

Diagram 2

http://etka.cc/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2006/drive_standart/453/hg_ug/407/subcategory/407010/part_id/2554615/lang/e

 

Diagram 3

http://autopartmaster.com/en/?action=catalog_show&cat=skoda&t_id=8765&id_pic=1762&cod=n90321302

 

Diagram 4

http://etka.cc/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2006/drive_standart/453/hg_ug/511/subcategory/511020/part_id/2562471/lang/e

 

 

Now I'm a bit confused by the bottom reference as it seems to refer to only the rear suspension, but it looks like the rear has its own shopping list of required replacement nuts etc ? Anyone shed light on this mystery of the last M10 reference ending 86102 ?

 

Also I forgot to ask, does anyone know if any other factors sell these over the counter ? Or has it got to be VW/Skoda ( which seems likely ), but a bit annoying as I bet they have to be pre-ordered.

 

I bet most car places don't even bother replacing them properly when they do these jobs.

To be fair, unless it's a part that specifically needs high tensile, a bolt is pretty much a bolt. So long as it's the right thread, pitch, long enough to do the job and short enough not to foul anything else. Most garages will have boxes of nuts and bolts on the shelf, but only replace ones that are wrecked. 

I'd tend to agree perhaps with the 4x BOLTS at the back that attach to the upper suspension mount for the rears, they are bolts not nyloc nuts, but even then is it worth saving a few quid? I'm kind of at odds about that.

 

However on further reading here, adds further confusion to the pot:

http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/37015/reusing-self-locking-nuts

 

Basically someone suggesting that there is authority to suggest nyloc are a bit garbage, and its the correct torque really doing the work. I would love an engineers opinion on this. ( Sounds like a call to the dad is nearing ).

Also I forgot to ask, does anyone know if any other factors sell these over the counter ? Or has it got to be VW/Skoda ( which seems likely ), but a bit annoying as I bet they have to be pre-ordered.

I bet most car places don't even bother replacing them properly when they do these jobs.

Emailing [email protected] is a very convenient way of getting this sort of stuff posted to you.

I'd tend to agree perhaps with the 4x BOLTS at the back that attach to the upper suspension mount for the rears, they are bolts not nyloc nuts, but even then is it worth saving a few quid? I'm kind of at odds about that.

 

However on further reading here, adds further confusion to the pot:

http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/37015/reusing-self-locking-nuts

 

Basically someone suggesting that there is authority to suggest nyloc are a bit garbage, and its the correct torque really doing the work. I would love an engineers opinion on this. ( Sounds like a call to the dad is nearing ).

 

Nylocs are garbage, but they do have their uses and are substantially superior to locking washers, in your particular case the rear shock absorber lower fastening bolt is a pivot and consequently has a turning force imparted to it by the object it is fastening, therefore a self-locking nut is used to prevent the pivot failing in the event the fastening works loose, this allows time for the loose fastening to be identified through the user hearing the rattling and getting the car inspected and repaired. Voila.

I as a DIYer, tend to take the line that when I'm taking something to bits, "if the nuts/bolts look like they will be trouble to get off this time - replace them, as well as replacing all stretch to yield bolts and nyloc nuts" - getting that stuff ordered in and ready to use if need be always works for me, as does using only manufacturer's supplied bolts/nuts.

Flanged nuts and bolts, I'd guess most of the time if sourcing elsewhere you would end with nuts and bolts and need to also fit washers to spread the load and in some cases provide resistance to slackening.

I'd tend to agree perhaps with the 4x BOLTS at the back that attach to the upper suspension mount for the rears, they are bolts not nyloc nuts, but even then is it worth saving a few quid? I'm kind of at odds about that.

The four bolts that hold the rear shock absorber to mounts are flanged bolts that have anti-rattle ridges built into the flanged part,I wouldn't use normal bolts here.

They are also a odd sized bolt, so hard ware stores will probably not stock them.

No I was more about saying all the nyloc ones are perishable ( potentially ) although there is even an argument that the plastic part is less useful than actualy perceived ( but some interesting throughts about whether they are still working by restistance when you try and fit them)

 

So I was thinking, that just remains the bolts, unless they look damaged then you can say arguably what is the point replacing them unless the threads look damaged or corroded ?

 

For the sake of £30 or so I'd just replace them all though, particularly if they look damaged, but some interesting arguments about refitting them on other forums. I can see the sense in replacing them though, they have an important job and are stressed constantly.