Basically its leaking from the center, is there a fix or is it shot and needs replacing?

Edited 2 November, 20169 yr by FromTheDarkness

replaced both rears,£45 a side with mine given in exchange. 

I'd reckon that was a good choice of actions!

Just in the middle of painting them black.. sanded down the slider pins, and new rubbers and grease to go on.

 

 - Question out of the 4 slider pins (which i thought where all identical) i have 2 that have three notches on, im wondering if top/ bottom are different?

replaced both rears,£45 a side with mine given in exchange.

That's a good price. I paid £30 for one from a breakers when a bleed nipple decided it didn't want to play anymore.

JRJG

That's a good price. I paid £30 for one from a breakers when a bleed nipple decided it didn't want to play anymore.

JRJG

if interested : http://brakeparts.co.uk/#!/shop/SKODA/FABIA/03-07/FABIA%201.9%20DIESEL%20inc%20VRS/Rear%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20cylinders/BCA2967

All was going well: 

 

Fitted passanger side,

 

On to drivers side, and i made a expensive mistake :(

 

Threaded ... No matter what it leaks ive fcked it up ..... 

 

 

 

 

You cross threaded where the pipe union goes in?

You cross threaded where the pipe union goes in?

Yes, i blame the banjo as it looks like its worn on the first two threads, also the threads look much larger than the threads on the caliper... but probably me being a ham fisted oaf

 

Oh dear. Bad luck :(

Oh dear. Bad luck :(

new banjo bolt, washers and caliper tomorrow :(

Looking at the bolt, close up, it looks like the first couple of turns of the thread are galled (blocked up with material 'picked up'  from the old caliper on its way out).  A careful carve around with a sharp pointy thing might rescue that? Edit: and mean it would then go into the caliper, allowing you to return the next one unopened.

Edited 3 November, 20169 yr by Wino

No, sorry, looking at the caliper thread, as best I can at 'large' size, that does look pretty bad. Might just be the photo though. Did the bolt pull all the way down to compress the washers, or did it jam up before then? I guess it can't have pulled all the way down or it would've sealed.

Edited 3 November, 20169 yr by Wino

Looking at the bolt, close up, it looks like the first couple of turns of the thread are galled (blocked up with material 'picked up'  from the old caliper on its way out).  A careful carve around with a sharp pointy thing might rescue that? Edit: and mean it would then go into the caliper, allowing you to return the next one unopened.

 

 

No, sorry, looking at the caliper thread, as best I can at 'large' size, that does look pretty bad. Might just be the photo though. Did the bolt pull all the way down to compress the washers, or did it jam up before then? I guess it can't have pulled all the way down or it would've sealed.

Im hoping this banjo bolt fits, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331429723879?clk_rvr_id=1118831610827&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true

Im going to the seller tomorrow, that who i got the calipers off.

 

- i tried a few tries, but by then all i was doing was tearing up the threads even more. The first time no, it didn't go tight. After i had messed it up, i did rang it as tight as i could but it wasn't making a flat seal. The front was tight but the back of the plate there was movement. 

Edited 4 November, 20169 yr by FromTheDarkness

Sorted all bled, not driven yet but soon... hope all is well :p

 

This is the little ****** that cost me a extra £57:

 

Alright i should have been more observant, but its still a little ******!!!

Edited 4 November, 20169 yr by FromTheDarkness

Brake pedal bites a little low, think it needs another good bleed.

Brake pedal bites a little low, think it needs another good bleed.

 

Did you fit new pads? The pedal can be low until the pads have bedded in a bit.

Can be tricky at the rears, as there's an 'upside-down U shape' of flexible hose just before the union, so a good place well above the bleed nipple for air bubbles to sit.

 

Did you fit new pads? The pedal can be low until the pads have bedded in a bit.

No the rears where basically new.

 

Can be tricky at the rears, as there's an 'upside-down U shape' of flexible hose just before the union, so a good place well above the bleed nipple for air bubbles to sit.

 

 oh yes indeed, I will bleed and press this down next time... thanks for that

 

 - Is it a bad sign also that the front drivers side, even when fully loosened only just drips... for example the front took 20mins to half empty the easybleed container, the rears half empty in mins.

 - does hand brake need to be off?

 - ive read you can use easybleed, and press the pedal - infact instructions suggest this if your having difficulty normally. Will try this also.

Edited 4 November, 20169 yr by FromTheDarkness

I think you'll find that bit is too stiff to push down by hand (sounds rude!).  Unbolting the caliper and lifting it up so that hose straightens out into one uphill slope is what I did.

 

Not sure on your flow differences between front and rear, that sounds odd. Maybe swap the bleed nipples over at the front and see if the slow flow moves to the other side?

 

Don't think handbrake position matters.

I think you'll find that bit is too stiff to push down by hand (sounds rude!).  Unbolting the caliper and lifting it up so that hose straightens out into one uphill slope is what I did.

 

Not sure on your flow differences between front and rear, that sounds odd. Maybe swap the bleed nipples over at the front and see if the slow flow moves to the other side?

 

Don't think handbrake position matters.

I took the nipple out and it still dripped the same :(

Trouble with front flexy(s)?

I had the same thing on an old Golf. Front flexi had perished and collapsed inside. Stopped proper bleeding but brakes still worked. Also had similar on a fuel delivery pipe where it formed an internal 'one way valve' effect. Took me ages to work out why I was getting fuel starvation.

I had the same thing on an old Golf. Front flexi had perished and collapsed inside. Stopped proper bleeding but brakes still worked. Also had similar on a fuel delivery pipe where it formed an internal 'one way valve' effect. Took me ages to work out why I was getting fuel starvation.

I will have to check this.