Does your other half have the setting off issue?

 

Never mentioned it, or reacted to my comments about her car being "difficult".

 

But the car is different now: what I'd consider to be within "normal" range.

2010-2014 most Audi A1 sold in the UK were 1.2 TSI, more than the 1.4 TSI's so it was not really normally A1 starts at 1.4TSI.

 

Right, so I stand corrected, so when I was comparing used A1 and new Polo 6C I seemed to have missed  the entry model A1s, which makes sense as I was only looking at 5 door cars - so only later ones. Though, this fact does reinforce the issue that this 1.2TSI 110PS was used in some more quite expensive in their segment of the market cars - so not just used at the lower models/marques. Which was given as a reason why they might always be a bit noisy.

The A1 now comes with the 3 cylinder 110ps TSI as the starter engine. They have dropped the chain driven cam 1.2TSI which, as you rightly say went in before 2014. In fact, although the 3 cyl unit is less refined than the belt driven 110ps TSI four cylinder unit, it does have notably more torque than our 1.2 110ps TSI four cylinder unit @ 200nm at 2k rpm. Not bad for a little un! 

 

That is what tends to happen when you drop a cylinder and keep the same power output - think of the torque available from a single cylinder Bolider marine engine compared with a similar power rated multi cylinder engine.  I seem to remember my father complaining about the torque from the L-R petrol 6 cylinder 2.6(?) litre engine when compared with the 4 cylinder 2.25 litre engine - he thought that the 6 cylinder engine was "soft" when compared with the 4 cylinder one.

Yes indeed rum4mo. It's mostly just because there are fewer firing strokes per crank revolution and to keep the driveability of the motor designers will up the available torque while maintaining the max power level (if that's how they want the engine to perform). Although it may mean the torque occurring at slightly higher engine revs to avoid engine stress and some other undesirable effects especially if the motor is downsized in capacity (cc). It's notable that engine manufacturers have and are returning to longer stroke (under square) engine designs for more torque rather than the over square (short stroke) engines of more recent times. This means higher piston speeds but that doesn't matter now as engine and oil technology has improved beyond any recognition over what it was just 15 years ago even. So engine life is largely unaffected. The longer stroke of the engines also helps a more complete burn of the fuel meaning of course, cleaner emissions.

?? Do not understand this thread.

My 1.2 TSI 110 DSG is not noisy at all. After 40.000 miles, it is still the best low-revs-high-torque, and silent small petrol engine I have experienced.

Is this thread some kind of a Honda commercial? (fine cars btw).

 

 

 

 

 

 

True, Estate Man, modern petrol direct injection engines seem to have been deisgned to run a lot like DERV engines of old, but with extended rev limits.

?? Do not understand this thread.

My 1.2 TSI 110 DSG is not noisy at all. After 40.000 miles, it is still the best low-revs-high-torque, and silent small petrol engine I have experienced.

Is this thread some kind of a Honda commercial? (fine cars btw).

 

torslunde, I agree. I think it's just us folks talking about largely 'normal' noises that some folks are not sure about. These engines are good in all respects...but can make some noise/s that owners may not be familiar with if coming from other makes of vehicle or a previous non TSI engine. And then there is me! I have a knocking noise at start up (hot or cold) from my motor that definitely shouldn't be there, and that's now been diagnosed as a faulty camshaft adjuster oil pressure regulator. It's going in for that to be replaced. See my previous posts in this thread. I have been in touch with my dealer and Skoda about this fault and will continue to do so until it's fixed and I know there is no damage to the engine. But have to say so far they've been brilliant. My dealer has also been by far, the best dealer I've ever come across...going the extra 10.3 miles to prove the fault, even sending their master tech out to my home to hear the car start up on my sloping driveway and filming it. The great thing is that their tech regards the car as 'his' baby to look after for me. What a great attitude!

On 08/11/2016 at 13:00, ettlz said:

 

It's been mentioned here before if there's a dead spot at the start of the pedal travel. Might be a forum myth, but who knows. Anyway, it's: 1. Park up and switch off engine, remove key. 2. Depress gas pedal fully and hold. 3. Switch on ignition but don't start the engine (so one click of the key). 4. Hold for 20 seconds. 5. Switch off ignition, remove key, release pedal.

 

Had issues with my Rapid with this engine and tried the trick above and it really works, much more driveable now 

45 minutes ago, RapidRonnie said:

 

Had issues with my Rapid with this engine and tried the trick above and it really works, much more driveable now 

 

How much of a dead zone do you have at the start of your throttle's travel? Mine's about 5% -- enough to be make judging pedal position from foot pressure challenging. I wonder if this is deliberate (emissions?) or (more likely) sloppy workmanship and adjustment when they put the position sender on the rest of the pedal assembly.

Edited 15 October, 20178 yr by ettlz

6 hours ago, ettlz said:

 

How much of a dead zone do you have at the start of your throttle's travel? Mine's about 5% -- enough to be make judging pedal position from foot pressure challenging. I wonder if this is deliberate (emissions?) or (more likely) sloppy workmanship and adjustment when they put the position sender on the rest of the pedal assembly.

 

Hard to put a number on it but after doing the recalibration it's much much better (although not perfect)