Recently bought a 2004 1.2L Petrol Fabia HTP, when i got it 2x of the fuses were missing, a few have 7.5A instead of 5A a 15A instead of a 5A and one where there's meant to be a 10A there's a 20A instead, so i decided to replace them all with the correct Amp fancy glow when they blow fuses, came to fitting them and came across something confusing, it's my understanding that when it comes to fuses if the slot as a metal contact in it, it's a feature that's installed in the car (mine being the classic HTP there's a lot of empty slots) but for some reason there's a metal contact in slot 14 which according to my owners manual is for a Diesel Engine Control Unit and takes a 10A fuse (Petrol "should be" slot 17 & take a 5A), completely confused as to why someone has put in random fuses instead of their rated ones and even more confused with slot 14 :S

 

Anyone got any ideas of what it might be and what Amp fuse it might need? Any help appreciated

 

 

Click on the images to enlarge http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/294383-the-mki-fabia-fuse-layout-post-updated-with-bulb-types/

The 15A one that you think should be 5A would be No.17? See note c) at the end of the table linked by Lee's post.

Rear foglight fuse changed from 5 to 7.5A at some point in mk1 production history, fuse 37.

 

Fuse 14 is fitted for some petrol engine variants (1.2 12-valve), what's your engine code? AWY, I'd guess, 'cos that one doesn't seem to use it. (Or BMD?)

 

What number fuse was 20A instead of 10?

Edited 10 December, 20169 yr by Wino

The fuse layout diagrams are sometimes mirror image as left hand drive models have the fuse box is at the other end of the dash.

My classic mpi had a fuse in the diesel control unit slot. I too it out to replace the front wiper fuse which blew, but this put an engine light on about 20 miles later. Replaced it and the light went away. Never got it scanned so not sure what it affected but car was obviously unhappy about losing the supply to whatever it fed.

The fuse layout diagrams are sometimes mirror image as left hand drive models have the fuse box is at the other end of the dash.

 

Yeah i already took it from the PDF of the book and reversed it so it was a bit easier to read lol

The 15A one that you think should be 5A would be No.17? See note c) at the end of the table linked by Lee's post.

Rear foglight fuse changed from 5 to 7.5A at some point in mk1 production history, fuse 37.

Fuse 14 is fitted for some petrol engine variants (1.2 12-valve), what's your engine code? AWY, I'd guess, 'cos that one doesn't seem to use it. (Or BMD?)

What number fuse was 20A instead of 10?

Fuse number 15 is a 20A instead of a 10A, the pic shows it as it is now

Edited 13 December, 20169 yr by Blane

Related to windscreen wipers, ignition 12V, black/grey wire.

Wonder if someone's piggybacked something onto that wiring behind the dash somewhere, or just had trouble with it blowing and 'fixed' it cowboyishly?

No idea tbh, i'm gonna have bits of the dash and the handbrake/gearbox shroud off to fit a usb charger in anyways so i'll have a look at that point n see wots going on

As Wino suggested maybe a duffer's repair, if it is windscreen wipers, with age the pivots start to seize up, some "clever" people might think that fitting the same value of fuse is a waste of time if it blows soon after - then apply proper duffer's logic and fit one of a higher value, nice plan, shame about what the wiring and probably controller is expected to put up with!

As Wino suggested maybe a duffer's repair, if it is windscreen wipers, with age the pivots start to seize up, some "clever" people might think that fitting the same value of fuse is a waste of time if it blows soon after - then apply proper duffer's logic and fit one of a higher value, nice plan, shame about what the wiring and probably controller is expected to put up with!

Lol, it'll be going down to recommended amperage n find out soon i guess...

My classic mpi had a fuse in the diesel control unit slot. I too it out to replace the front wiper fuse which blew, but this put an engine light on about 20 miles later. Replaced it and the light went away. Never got it scanned so not sure what it affected but car was obviously unhappy about losing the supply to whatever it fed.

 

I put all the fuses in at the correct amperages per the post that lee linked, damn light still won't go away, how long did it take for it to disappear for u bud?

Which light is on? The picture of an engine one? 

It looks like you're missing a fuse to the right of the bright yellow mini fuse, there are two contacts in that vacant fuse position.

It looks like you're missing a fuse to the right of the bright yellow mini fuse, there are two contacts in that vacant fuse position.

 

Yeah looks like a 10 amp one is missing from there. For Lambda probe I think.

Good spot.

Should be a 10A feeding the lambda sensor heaters.

 

Hehe, too slow!.

Edited 15 December, 20169 yr by Wino

^ You weren't far behind, Pete

According to the manual it's the EPC Fault Light:

 

The warning light  comes on after the ignition has been switched on.
If the warning light does not go out or comes on when driving, or flashes,
this indicates a system fault in the electronic power control or in the
exhaust emission system. The engine management system selects an
emergency programme which enables you to drive to the nearest Škoda
dealer while adopting a gentle style of driving.

 

Personally i wouldn't say the car is in what the Škoda dealership in Inverness called "limp Home Mode" where it's meant to be down on power etc, still drives the same as before the light came on, i did notice that the end silencer on the exhaust has a lot of rust and degradation so thinking that may be the culprit but trying to eliminate cheaper options first

Edited 16 December, 20169 yr by Blane

Usually brake light switch failure.

Go here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/132727-help-my-epc-emissions-or-cel-check-engine-lamp-is-on/

Edited 16 December, 20169 yr by Wino

I put all the fuses in at the correct amperages per the post that lee linked, damn light still won't go away, how long did it take for it to disappear for u bud?

Took about 5 starts afterwards to clear, but it may have also been a coincidence, I never scanned it to find out

Have you fitted the missing fuse?

Have you fitted the missing fuse?

 

Yeah all the fuses are in now and at the correct amps from the other post you linked :)

 

I'm hoping that the problem is either because the bottom engine mounting bracket is needing replaced as the engine is moving about more than it should when starting up and when using the accelerator when stationary n i've got the part ordered n a garage to fit it, or the exhaust damage is causing as the manual says that this particular light can be caused by the exhaust emission system as well, but i'll be getting that after christmas and a set of ramps n try to fit myself as i wanna try n get into maintenace tasks myself if i can :)

For non techical folks- a fuse is like a low tension link in a rope- designed to pack up iF the pressure ( in this case current gets too high). Most fuses are designed to fail at twice the current, so a 1A fuse will fail at 2A, etc, except for special fuses, and that's where you need to look for the fuse needed. AND see if it's a special or normal, AND if it fails again, and it's a normal one, you need to ask WHY.