Hi all.

The green light next to the ac button does not come on when the button is pressed and the ac won't operate(even when the temp is set to lowest setting).

I've checked the refrigerant charge and tried the ac at normal outside ambient temp well above the 2 deg c as per the hand book.

The interior fan is fine and all other functions seem fine.The flat screen display also shows ac on but the compressor isn't running as no temp drop through dash vents.

It's a weirded one.

Still love the car though.

Welcome to the forum.

 

How old is the Yeti, and is it new to you.  Does it have some kind of Warranty & has the AC needed attention in the past?

I would suggest that if the green light doesn't come on, the first thing to check is the fuse. The button merely energises the system. If the lights not on it's probably an electrical problem rather than mechanical.

I could be wrong of course!

Are all fuses intact?

Hi all

Thanks for the replies.

I've had the car for just over 3 yrs,it's a 110 deisel and has always been reliable(except a new rear wiper motor 2 yrs ago)

I will check the fuses and give it a try.

That's easy; if you have an A/C on-off button, then you don't actually have Climatronic.

Oh really? What do cars with Climatronic have then?

That's easy; if you have an A/C on-off button, then you don't actually have Climatronic.

Mine has Climatronic and an on-off button, as in the picture below.

It's the button with A/C on.

That's easy; if you have an A/C on-off button, then you don't actually have Climatronic.

 

What a load of nonsense.

What a load of nonsense.

Gently - 'tis the Season of Goodwill to All Mankind... 

AFAIK all AC is automatic, Climatronic is simply a VAG brand name for it.

You can now get up to 4 zone also in premium models.

Obviously you have to be able to override it (on/off).

There is a reset for the climatronic units if you Google it.

I've had to do it before and I have the same unit

Possibly a holed condenser at the front, or a compressor failure - both of which have been known issues I believe ?

AFAIK all AC is automatic, Climatronic is simply a VAG brand name for it.

You can now get up to 4 zone also in premium models.

Obviously you have to be able to override it (on/off).

 

This isn't quite correct.  Climate control (the VAG term being Climatronic) has controls with specific cabin set-point target temperatures, e.g., 20 deg C.   Manual air-conditioning just has a warmer/cooler control and requires the user to adjust that control to vary the incoming air temperature.  It's becoming quite uncommon, but I had a rental car a few days ago with manual air conditioning.

Was it an optioned up Sandera?.

Was it an optioned up Sandera?.

No, a Jeep Patriot if I remember correctly.

Often the compressor is quite noisy. Get someone to operate the switch while you have the bonnet open and listen for a clunk and whirr......

Most systems have a low refrigerant cutout so that the compressor internals are not damaged by lack of lubrication if the system is empty - the refridgerant contains a lubricant. Its possible for there still to be some refridgerant and hence pressure in the system so it appears OK to a cursory check but it is low enough for the system to protect itself.

Most likely cause is a damaged condenser. Look for obvious stone damage and if you can't see anything then a leak check using refridgerant with a UV dye in it is the best way to find a leak. A cheap UV torch and some yellow lense glasses off ebay will help you visualise it if you are a home gamer.

I found a leak in my Vectra this way and replaced the condenser myself. I used an aftermarket one but it is an old car. I had a friend do the filling and emptying for me as to do it properly you meed to vacuum the system down before filling, and those cans from Halfrauds don't let you do that.

But the fact that the green light doesn't come on (as RHG says) when A/C is selected surely suggests that it's best to start looking for a possible an electrical problem first rather than assuming the compressor/condenser or anything else mechanical needing attention?

But the fact that the green light doesn't come on (as RHG says) when A/C is selected surely suggests that it's best to start looking for a possible an electrical problem first rather than assuming the compressor/condenser or anything else mechanical needing attention?

 

True in some part, but how some other cars I have had issues with function is that when there is mechanical damage and fluid loss, the system is electronically switched off to avoid damage by running the compressor when dry. The symptoms in this case are that when you press the button the light doesn't come on, there is no clunk of the clutch on the compressor engaging and the compressor doesn't spin as the system has been de-activated.

 

By all means check the fuse etc first as its a quick thing to do and always best to do simple things first. Its just worth being aware that those symptoms (no light on when pushing button) could be as a result of the car system protecting itself.

 

You can 'prove' the fluid loss theory on some cars by finding and shorting the fluid pressure sensor if you know where it is and it is the right type. The system will then run if fluid loss is the reason, but don't run it too long. I don't know what type of sensor the VAG group use as most of my experience is with Vauxhalls, but on early Astras you can for sure short the switch.

 

For the OP, I hope it is something simple like a blow fuse of chafed wire. If its the condensor then its probably a relatively simple job but I suspect the part isn't cheap - for example a Vectra GM OEM one is about £300 - aftermarket about £100.

 

The condensor is one of the things on the Yeti which worries me - the grille is very open and I am concerned stone damage will occur. I am tempted to put a bit of plastic mesh behind the bumper but don't want to obscure the airflow too much.

True in some part, but how some other cars I have had issues with function is that when there is mechanical damage and fluid loss, the system is electronically switched off to avoid damage by running the compressor when dry.

I have been informed that unlike my last car the Yeti with Climatronic has no clutch on the compressor so it is running all the time.

The switch must valve the compressor in and out of the refrigerant circuit.

 

I have been informed that unlike my last car the Yeti with Climatronic has no clutch on the compressor so it is running all the time.

The switch must valve the compressor in and out of the refrigerant circuit.

 

 As I understand it, there is no clutch any more. Modern compressors have a swash plate variable drive, fluid is circulated continually. When "switched on", the variable "wobble" increases and gives more fluid circulation.

 

The green light indicates it has moved from "idle" to full flow, so still worth checking as you can tell from engine noise and revs as it takes up.