Hi everyone. I have had my car fixed thankfully.

 

New problems:

 

1.Rear wiper doesn't eject liquid but front does. I've tried jacking up passenger side of the car and fiddling around with the pipes, to no avail.

 

2. Driver side lock is gone totally inside and out. Key goes in but goes all the way round, but I can't open the door

 

Anyone know if these are fixable for a person who knows nothing about cars?

 

Any help/ advice would be great. I'm having to get into the car from the passenger side to go to work.

 

Thanks

 

 

@Faz02 (1) Look in the space behind the left-hand trim in the boot. There's a good chance there's a broken joint there.

4 hours ago, Faz02 said:

Hi everyone. I have had my car fixed thankfully.

 

New problems:

 

1.Rear wiper doesn't eject liquid but front does. I've tried jacking up passenger side of the car and fiddling around with the pipes, to no avail.

 

2. Driver side lock is gone totally inside and out. Key goes in but goes all the way round, but I can't open the door

 

Anyone know if these are fixable for a person who knows nothing about cars?

 

Any help/ advice would be great. I'm having to get into the car from the passenger side to go to work.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

The lock is probably beyond your ability to repair, however as Ken correctly points out there will be a break in the pipework somewhere along the route to the rear washer, look for any wetness under the car or on the carpets inside after operating the washer because the liquid will be going somewhere it shouldn't.

Cheers fellas. Yes you're right it was, my scrapyard fixed the lock for me. Took about an hour and bits from three locks but he got there.

 

Washer jet issue my local garage guys had look taken the boot lid to pieces and said that it needs stripping to see if theres any breaks or leaks from boot lid to passenger side wheel. 

 

Sounds like a lot of work! Any simple suggestions welcome for a newbie DIY man like myself who can just about change a tyre. Thanks in advance. 

 

33 minutes ago, Faz02 said:

Any simple suggestions welcome for a newbie DIY man like myself who can just about change a tyre. Thanks in advance. 

 

Sure, start off by doing your own service work, only a few simple hand tools required and some big savings to be made, by doing this you will familiarise yourself with your car and you're more likely to spot things going wrong before they actually do.

No water from rear washer jet is a simple fix on the SDi. At the back of the engine bay behind the Air Filter there is a joint in the pipework. It's a push fit and often comes apart. Easy to check. Hold rear washer jet on for a few seconds so you can hear the pump working  (pushing wiper arm towards the dash). Have a look under the car at the front and if you see water dripping down you know where it is coming from. You can get a hand to the pipework but not two but it is possible to squeeze the joint back together using your left hand (right hand wont reach). Alternatively take the airbox top off and move the trunking to one side.

Hello everyone. I have two questions not related to this thread:

 

Does anyone know if the radio on Skodas is easily removed and replaced please? The radio comes on if I go over a speed bump or pothole then turns off after a short while. The volume button is permanently pressed too. 

 

Plus is it worth doing a service if it's only done 2-3 thousand miles in the past 18 months? It will be used for about 3x this mileage in the coming year. Any advice welcome. Thanks.

Yes to both questions

Thanks. Which DAB radio would be compatible for my car? I want to buy the right one that is easily fitted without messing around with aerials and dismantling the dashboard. I've seen some on Ebay but they require coding whatever that means. I've bought the keys to take out the radio but I'll be stuck after taking it out.

 

I know there is a thread about this already but it went over my head as I'm no good with cars especially electronics. Anyone with any advice explained simply please? Thanks 

If you want a DAB radio you will have to fit an aerial somehow as the standard one won’t be able to pick it up. 

 

If you convert to an aftermarket single single or double DIN unit you will need a fascia adapter and probably need to swap the permanent and ignition live. 

I bought a£15 magnetic dab aerial of Amazon, and mounted it behind the trim on the rear wheelarch.

Works a treat and cant be seen

Thanks for your replies. I ended up getting  a second hand symphony radio from my local scrap yard for a tenner. It needed coding so I bought a code off Ebay for a fiver. I watched a YouTube video on how to put the code in and what to do after. If you press the fast forward button after putting the code in it 'learns' the code and works perfectly. Only issue I have now is speakers cut out on one side intermittently. 

 

On a side issue, my car doesn't start properly, a few days ago it struggled to start then needed a boost to start later on in the day. I started my car yesterday it coughed before starting. Do I need a new battery? I enquired at the scrap yard £25, new is £50 or £70 with three years guarantee?

 

Plus I replaced oil,oil filter and diesel filter last January. What should I replace essentially this time around?

 

Any advice welcome. Thanks.

Edited 5 September, 20196 yr by Faz02

Yes you need a battery, replace the air filter as well as the oil, oil filter and fuel filter this time.

One of your speakers is failing and causing the amp to cut one channel.

2 hours ago, Faz02 said:

Do I need a new battery?

Possibly, but first you need to check whether your charging system is working correctly, otherwise your new battery will soon need replacing too.

Simplest ever diagnostic test - turn on ignition (to the point where various warning lights come on, but the starter motor hasn't moved) do you see the battery light?

See: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/401778-battery-light-and-associated-problems/

 

Edited 5 September, 20196 yr by Wino

Thanks for the replies. The battery light comes on and then goes out after a few seconds when ignition is started. Does this mean I definitely need a new one rather than scrap yard one? I'm not planning to keep the car long term so might go for the cheaper option.

 

Will I need a pollen filter this time? I changed it two services ago. Thanks for your help.

That's good, it means the alternator is probably charging OK; it's when the battery light doesn't come on at that stage that there's a problem. 

 

Many, many perfectly healthy batteries probably go to scrapyards, so as long as they haven't been left uncharged for too long, you should be OK with one. 

 

A vacuum cleaner with a narrow nozzle run up and down the bottom of the pleats (on the dirty side!) is a good way of extending the life of a pollen filter.  

Thanks. I wasn't sure where to take the pollen filter out from so I left it to the garage guys. Got Mahle filters instead of the cheaper ones? Not sure what the difference is between this make Mann and the crosland ones only a few quid difference at trade price. Garage guy couldn't get the sump screw off so they had to pump the oil out. Not sure what I'm going to do next service might have to replace the whole sump?

 

Another issue: I've noticed a vibrating and shaking more than usual when setting off in first gear after slowly lifting the clutch. It's weird because it doesn't happen all the time? Might be my poor gear changing as I've been off the road for over a year. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

Pollen filter is pretty easy, just slightly awkward as it's in the passenger footwell. Doesn't really matter which brand.

 

 

Edited 6 September, 20196 yr by TMB

Hi everyone.

 

I've got another issue with my skoda. I recently replaced the back brake cylinder, shocker and clutch. In the last few days I've noticed a loud grinding noise when I press the brake pedal. It gets louder and louder as I press harder, it sounds like something is grinding against the discs. 

 

Is it a bearing? Pads? I got the pads and discs changed  a few years ago and I hope it isn't that this time as it was expensive. Its makes a sound like something is going round and round when I start the engine and press the brake pedal slightly. Its louder than the engine and that is a loud diesel sound already! It sounds more prominent on the passenger side wheel. 

 

Any help or advice is appreciated. Is it safe to drive? I'm a bit concerned. I have a day off tomorrow but don't want to drive it if its unsafe. Advice anyone please?

 

Thanks

Edited 1 December, 20196 yr by Faz02

On 06/03/2017 at 20:23, floydboy1 said:

 

Haha are they really that bad? 

My old sdi had 230k on the clock engine was mint but had 2 gear boxes in her and it was the last gear box that scraped her