Hello all,

 

I bought a 2010 octavia vrs 2litre tsi estate back at the end of January. Since having it, been nothing but impressed. Cannot fault the power,  and coming from a 2016 polo gti, that was plenty quick enough, I thought I'd notice the difference. But I really can't. 

 

Anyway, for a week or so I've noticed when I press the throttle there's a momentary hesitation. And when I'm on the throttle and release it, the revs don't drop straight away, there's again, a hesitation. 

 

Is it the diverter valve? Or could it be something with the turbo maybe? 

 

Any help or advice would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance. 

 

James  

Pretty unlikely to be the diverter valve with those symptoms.  Normal for miss / hesitation you'd look at plugs and fuel filter maybe to eliminate the consumables.  A fault read would help to see if anything has been logged.  Could be the throttle body.

It's not misfiring. It's like a pause. There's no other symptoms to suggest plugs etc as if it was the plugs it'd be constant. Same with the fuel filter. It's literally like I press the pedal and theres like a 10ms pause then it goes and the same when I take my foot of the pedal, it stays on for about 10ms. I'm out of ideas. 

Might change the diverter anyway as a matter of course. 

Ok, but what is the age and mileage of said plugs. Sometimes, it happens that faults can build up over time but only become apparent as symptoms become severe enough to be readily noticed and it can sometimes be more than one fault or component at fault.

 

My money, in absence of any additional information and a vcds code read, is possible Throttle Body or Intake Manifold related.  

Edited 5 March, 20179 yr by TheClient

Ask to have your Throttle Body recalibrated. Had mine done recently and it has improved mine.

Yep, that would be a place to start, may need cleaning though....

 

planehazza, did you ever get completely to the bottom of your intermittent missing problem mid boost cycles? 

Edited 6 March, 20179 yr by TheClient

7 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Yep, that would be a place to start, may need cleaning though....

 

planehazza, did you ever get completely to the bottom of your intermittent missing problem mid boost cycles? 

 

Yeah the cleaning is very likely needed, mine was horrific.  

 

Nope, sadly not yet.  I kept meaning to go out with logging but other things got in the way, and now it's just a case of remembering to do it.  I might take a run out tonight with the laptop.  

17 minutes ago, planehazza said:

 

Yeah the cleaning is very likely needed, mine was horrific.  

 

Nope, sadly not yet.  I kept meaning to go out with logging but other things got in the way, and now it's just a case of remembering to do it.  I might take a run out tonight with the laptop.  

It is a real mystery given how many of the usual common fault areas you have been over, or addressed. I've not got any new ideas but would be keen to see an update post when you try to narrow it down a bit further, if I can comment on anything I will.....

1 minute ago, TheClient said:

It is a real mystery given how many of the usual common fault areas you have been over, or addressed. I've not got any new ideas but would be keen to see an update post when you try to narrow it down a bit further, if I can comment on anything I will.....

 

Yup, I know.  I wouldn't be surprised if something isn't just damaged or not quite right after it had the timing chain failure a few years before I bought it.  I've recently found out that they've bodged the plastic chain cover and instead of replacing parts etc, they've just used crappy sealant.  Currently awaiting a quote to have that fixed.

34 minutes ago, planehazza said:

 

Yeah the cleaning is very likely needed, mine was horrific.  

 

Nope, sadly not yet.  I kept meaning to go out with logging but other things got in the way, and now it's just a case of remembering to do it.  I might take a run out tonight with the laptop.  

 How did you clean it and where did you get it reset hazza?

6 minutes ago, King85 said:

 How did you clean it and where did you get it reset hazza?

 

Lots of time, pain, frustration, and carb cleaner.  I'll dig out my thread - I didn't do a detailed guide like I'd planned as it was such a ballache for a novice, but I listed the highlights of the project so others could learn from my mistakes/encounters.  I'll get the link, 2 secs

 

EDIT: here you go: 

 

 

I just took it to my local, trusted VAG specialist, Tyneside Autohaus in Newburn, Newcastle. I hadn't actually asked them to do it, but I mentioned the stutter/hestitation that felt like a mild misfire, and he said he redid the TB endpoints etc.  The car is also driving straight after having a Hunter's performed so overall the car is much better. 

Edited 6 March, 20179 yr by planehazza

Just now, planehazza said:

 

Lots of time, pain, frustration, and carb cleaner.  I'll dig out my thread - I didn't do a detailed guide like I'd planned as it was such a ballache for a novice, but I listed the highlights of the project so others could learn from my mistakes/encounters.  I'll get the link, 2 secs

 

I just took it to my local, trusted VAG specialist, Tyneside Autohaus in Newburn, Newcastle. I hadn't actually asked them to do it, but I mentioned the stutter/hestitation that felt like a mild misfire, and he said he redid the TB endpoints etc.  The car is also driving straight after having a Hunter's performed so overall the car is much better. 

Timing chain put back on 1 tooth adrift? Don't think you can fully check without the upper and lower covers removed though.  The lower cover is sealant only, often the pressed metal cover distorts when removed and should be replaced given the difficulty of subsequently dealing with it.

 

The upper one has a dedicated seal that can be replaced, not huge £££, the cost of the lower cover is much more, so not sure why they chose to do that with the upper seal. Maybe they re-used the original lower cover too.  

 

Assuming you don't use the same garage? 

7 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Timing chain put back on 1 tooth adrift? Don't think you can fully check without the upper and lower covers removed though.  The lower cover is sealant only, often the pressed metal cover distorts when removed and should be replaced given the difficulty of subsequently dealing with it.

 

The upper one has a dedicated seal that can be replaced, not huge £££, the cost of the lower cover is much more, so not sure why they chose to do that with the upper seal. Maybe they re-used the original lower cover too.  

 

Assuming you don't use the same garage? 

Nope.  They're BMW specialist in Hexham I believe and it's the place the previous owner favoured. I'm led to believe they're reputable, but I wouldn't go back regardless as they're not local.  It's funny you mentioned the chain being on a tooth out; it's always something I wonder about, but I figured it would be very pricey to check.  I would have thought a difference of only one tooth would still have severe issues however, although I guess it depends on the tooth count and how many degrees one puts the CAM shaft out by.

For the OP:

 

After cleaning (or before, if you wanted to try it without cleaning) you should be able to perform throttle body alignment with VCDS.  Look for members near you if you don't have it.  It would be a more complete process if you cleaned the TB as well probably by removing.

 

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)

 

5 minutes ago, planehazza said:

Nope.  They're BMW specialist in Hexham I believe and it's the place the previous owner favoured. I'm led to believe they're reputable, but I wouldn't go back regardless as they're not local.  It's funny you mentioned the chain being on a tooth out; it's always something I wonder about, but I figured it would be very pricey to check.  I would have thought a difference of only one tooth would still have severe issues however, although I guess it depends on the tooth count and how many degrees one puts the CAM shaft out by.

Right.  It will be pricey as it is probably 3/4 of a timing chain and tensioner replacement!  I'm not sure about the tolerance. When I had a timing chain stretch that brought up the MIL in a twin charger 1.4tsi mk5 golf, the car drove perfectly! So it is hard to say absolutely how much a problem 1 tooth could cause, more than 1 I would say would bring valves very lose to pistons!

 

edit: and if you did check it by removing covers and associated work, you'd probably do the tensioner and chain again whilst you were in there!

Edited 6 March, 20179 yr by TheClient

2 minutes ago, TheClient said:

Right.  It will be pricey as it is probably 3/4 of a timing chain and tensioner replacement!  I'm not sure about the tolerance. When I had a timing chain stretch that brought up the MIL in a twin charger 1.4tsi mk5 golf, the car drove perfectly! So it is hard to say absolutely how much a problem 1 tooth could cause, more than 1 I would say would bring valves very lose to pistons!

 

Yeah that's my thoughts too.  Perhaps naively, but I would like to think that MILs would be given before the point that the valves are anywhere near the pistons.  Obviously that's not the case for a suddent chain failure, but with a slight out of timing issue I'd like to think an error would be thrown in advance.  

 

Apologies to OP for the hijack, but it's of the same issue so it should help

On 06/03/2017 at 10:42, planehazza said:

 

Yeah that's my thoughts too.  Perhaps naively, but I would like to think that MILs would be given before the point that the valves are anywhere near the pistons.  Obviously that's not the case for a suddent chain failure, but with a slight out of timing issue I'd like to think an error would be thrown in advance.  

 

Apologies to OP for the hijack, but it's of the same issue so it should help

Not a problem! Thank you all for your input. I'll keep you informed :-)

Edited 24 March, 20179 yr by Dawk01

Dawk01, did you ever get to the bottom of this issue?