True,

& If 'Everything in life was as reliable as a Golf', what a mess the world would be in.

 

'Surveys' as reliable as Golf's or VW TSI engines. Or the consitancy of VW Group Customer Services.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/266114-18tsi-and-20ts-engine-failures 

53 minutes ago, Expatman said:

Yes, you can have bad experiences but you have to look at the situation as a whole. Inevitably we will hear about bad situations while the vast majority without problems will remain quiet. I am not saying it is okay to have a bad experience but it is inevitable in a mass production basis where cars are engineered to a price customers are prepared to pay. Top reliability in the AutoExpress survey was Tesla, £70k plus cars and few sold. Also in top 3 was Dacia, old proven technology but reliable - if that's all that matters to you.

 

I think think there are "failures" that are due to the mass production methods, likewise failure due to unforeseen quality issue. Just because of the numbers involved there are always going to a few that sneak through. The majority will hopefully be caught and dealt with within the warranty period.

 

Issues like premature cam chain stretch are more sinister because they are a mixture or poor design and poor quality. They can also cause catastrophic engine damage unlike many faults that are no more than an inconvenience. Also because it's a progressive failure many of the cars will be outside the warranty period, so either having the car repaired or updated prior to it failing is going to involve a good-will gesture from VW or lots of arguments.

 

Now I can forgive a fault that slips through the net and is relatively rare. I can't forgive shoddy trading practices that just let the customer pick up the bill for what are "Know-issues" That they simply ignore of wriggle out of because the car does not have an unblemished "VW" service history. Many second or third owners will simply get the vehicles serviced where it is convenient, but VW beat them with it like a stick come the day when the engine fails.

 

People take into account "VW's" reputation for quality when they pay over the odds when they purchase it. It should come with after-sales and service that is honest and open, not like buying a car off Ebay.

 

20 years ago I would have said VW customer care and after-sales were among the best, now they are to be blunt rubbish and I've driven Vdubs for 25+ years.   

Edited 29 March, 20179 yr by DampDog

VW is moving on as usual.

There was the 1.2TSI Euro 5, then Euro 6, and these get dropped for 1.0TSI Euro 6.  (Past lemons will get forgotten.)

1.6TDI CR euro 5 was OK, but had Defeat Device, then a Euro6 & there are 1.4TDI Euro 6, but they will be dropped for a more efficient 1.6 TDI Euro 6 & a bit.

 

1.4TSI, 1.4TFSI, 1.4 TSI ACT / 1.4TFSI COD, greatest thing since sliced bread, but getting dropped for a 1.5 TSI ACT.

Onward and upwards as finely VW Group have very reliable engines,  hopefully.

I've got to agree with you if the failure could have been predicted within the normal life of the vehicle. Chain stretch might well be one of those instances and if 'predictable' should have been resolved. Not sure what percentage of engines were affected, if <0.1% then again in the dubious area.

Edited 29 March, 20179 yr by Expatman

Any manufacturer can have failures, it is how they man up and accept and what they do.

Seems the German Manufacturers are minded to just keep denying their skills in engineering or sourcing or R&D are ever the cause of issues.

Pile them high, hope they last 3 years and then stuff them, not our worry.

BBC One - Watchdog - BMW deny engine failures are due to manufacturing fault.mhtml

Cars don't rust now so they have to build in some obsolescence or we would all drive 10 year old cars.

 

80k on and engine when I was a kid was a lot and cars were avoided. In the late 90's early 2000 it was nothing and cars did huge mileage. Now turbos, DPF, EGR and a bunch of other letters make 3 years and 65k a gamble.

5 hours ago, Nobbi1977 said:

Cars don't rust now so they have to build in some obsolescence or we would all drive 10 year old cars.

 

80k on and engine when I was a kid was a lot and cars were avoided. In the late 90's early 2000 it was nothing and cars did huge mileage. Now turbos, DPF, EGR and a bunch of other letters make 3 years and 65k a gamble.

 

Really?

My last 3 cars have been turbo diesels:

Freelander Di, 105k miles, no problems.

Freelander Td4, 110k miles, no problems.

Yeti 140 4x4, 110k miles, egr just starting to play up.

I expect the current Yeti 150 to be no different.

And I know plenty of people with Tdi diesels, doing similar mileages. One has a Peugeot currently at 170k and he has done nothing to the car, other than service it every 12k miles.

& as to the not rusting anymore, well they should not, but then maybe this is the end of the Rusting Era with the VW Group and Skoda saved the YETI 

 for being the last model to have poor preparation and application of treatments & paint finishes on the luck few vehicles.

Icons of design and function and some get a little bit of every fault that VW Group have ever had in their history.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/385693-1000000-miles-of-poor-reliability-in-a-skoda-yeti-12tsi 

Edited 30 March, 20179 yr by Awayoffski

Never ceases to amaze me how a simple post like this, with a specific query about the idling speeds he's seeing, is 'dragged' into some 'waffle' re. the, perceived, 'quality' of VAG group cars, and their 'evil' board members !! (Usually from the same poster(s) who, surprisingly given their apparent emphatic mistrust of VAG, are repeat owners of VAG models !!!

 

 

I do wish my ignore button was more reliable !!

lol, No worries you are always there to discuss posts rather than cars.

5 hours ago, Llanigraham said:

 

Really?

My last 3 cars have been turbo diesels:

Freelander Di, 105k miles, no problems.

Freelander Td4, 110k miles, no problems.

Yeti 140 4x4, 110k miles, egr just starting to play up.

I expect the current Yeti 150 to be no different.

And I know plenty of people with Tdi diesels, doing similar mileages. One has a Peugeot currently at 170k and he has done nothing to the car, other than service it every 12k miles.

 

My Grand Scenic had EGR issues at 80k, new dashboard display about the same time and then went pop about 5k later. All after I sent a fortune on an ABS computer. Apparently well known issues on those. 

 

Friends with Golf diesels have had turbo issue about 65k and been told that is about the mileage they go by independent specialists.

1 hour ago, graham47 said:

Never ceases to amaze me how a simple post like this, with a specific query about the idling speeds he's seeing, is 'dragged' into some 'waffle' re. the, perceived, 'quality' of VAG group cars, and their 'evil' board members !! (Usually from the same poster(s) who, surprisingly given their apparent emphatic mistrust of VAG, are repeat owners of VAG models !!!

 

 

I do wish my ignore button was more reliable !!

 

It doesn't surprise me in the least. What you hope to find is that folk have had the same/similar issues that you're experiencing, and hopefully suggest a "fix" or remedy/explanation of how they resolved it, so you don't have to jump through all the same hoops they did. Hopefully saving a little, time, money or heartache. If you're lucky, all of those. I don't think it's "amazing" in any way that when folk start talking about issues they start to vent, especially if they've had problems that really should have been picked up by Vdub, without having to bang on their door or stamp your feet. As for evil board members, I wouldn't know one if I ran him over.

 

I also think forums are a bit like having a natter down the pub, there's always a chance the conversation will go off at a tangent. Which is not always a bad thing.

 

Personally I've run Vdubs for 25+ years and until my latest Polo they have in-general been good cars.  That's long enough to have an overview of how things have changed. (or appear to have changed imo)  I've seen customer care deteriorate, they are all I-pads and tick boxes now, with every man and his dog trying to sell you a product or a service, then running for cover should you have an issue. And who on gods earth dreamt up the "VIP event" "As a valued customer we invite you to this very special invitation only event!!!"   Yeah right, me and every other name on your database... LOL

 

Anyway I guess we have no members who have any real understanding of what may effect idle speed?? 

 

Do we even have an ignore button???

Edited 30 March, 20179 yr by DampDog

2 hours ago, graham47 said:

Never ceases to amaze me how a simple post like this, with a specific query about the idling speeds he's seeing, is 'dragged' into ...

 

As the OP, no worries here - I got the answer within minutes.  After that, the thread was free to wander off in typical Yeti forum manner; I only followed to find where the heck it would go!  No-one's mentioned Brexit yet, though, so it's probably still got legs

 

1 hour ago, DampDog said:

....I also think forums are a bit like having a natter down the pub, there's always a chance the conversation will go off at a tangent. Which is not always a bad thing...

....Anyway I guess we have no members who have any real understanding of what may effect idle speed....

 

As I said above, really.  My own feeling is that it's bad forum manners to go OT to the point of hijacking a topic until there's been a fair response to a question or comment; after that, well... 

 

If I may, re your last comment, I would politely refer you to Post 2 from James@, a Master Tech. 

15 hours ago, Brijo said:

As I said above, really.  My own feeling is that it's bad forum manners to go OT to the point of hijacking a topic until there's been a fair response to a question or comment; after that, well... 

 

If I may, re your last comment, I would politely refer you to Post 2 from James@, a Master Tech. 

Cheers, I'll be a little more mindful of being a tad hamfisted at taking threads off course to the detriment of the OP. We all come here hoping to learn or add something to the subject, I did not intend to detract from that. Apologies if I did, I was just exchanging views.

 

I did see the post 2, while it was helpful about what the car should be doing, a little later in the thread circa post #16 I asked some questions regarding erratic tick-over. (are post numbered? Am I missing a trick?)

 

If anyone has any insight into what may cause issues with a consistent, it would be appreciated..   

 

Edited 31 March, 20179 yr by DampDog

@DampDog

Low state of charge in the battery is one factor that the ECU may use to decide on a higher than normal idle speed, do you do a lot of short journeys?

As you say in your earlier post, engine (coolant) temperature is another determinant, so a failed thermostat, or misreading temperature sensor could also cause variability.

 

Posts haven't been numbered since the latest forum upgrade.

1 hour ago, Wino said:

@DampDog

Low state of charge in the battery is one factor that the ECU may use to decide on a higher than normal idle speed, do you do a lot of short journeys?

As you say in your earlier post, engine (coolant) temperature is another determinant, so a failed thermostat, or misreading temperature sensor could also cause variability.

 

Posts haven't been numbered since the latest forum upgrade.

Cheers for the pointers...

 

Much to my shame, nigh on all my journeys are pretty short. That said I've not been aware that the car has been showing any signs of low charge, it always cranks crisply and starts first turn. That said I can stick a meter on it and see what the volts are before and during cranking. Also the behaviour appears to continue even when the car has been driven and run for 30+min.

 

The car warms up normally and fairly rapidly so I'm reasonably confident that the thermostat is operating as it should, though a faulty temperature may well be a possibility. I have a simple diagnostic reader but that shows no faults logged.  

Edited 31 March, 20179 yr by DampDog

Better method is to test the voltage first thing in the morning, before you start it, after the car has been "resting" for several hours. If you get a reading at or below 11.8v it is time to replace the battery.

4 hours ago, DampDog said:

... I did not intend to detract from that. Apologies if I did, I was just exchanging views.

.... (are post numbered? Am I missing a trick?)...

 

You didn't, really - I had an answer by then.  No apologies necessary, and fair views always welcome!  And, as Wino said, we've lost the very useful Post number, which makes back references difficult. 

19 hours ago, Llanigraham said:

Better method is to test the voltage first thing in the morning, before you start it, after the car has been "resting" for several hours. If you get a reading at or below 11.8v it is time to replace the battery.

 Cheers, I will have a look at in in the morning. 

 

I have noticed that when the idle is sitting higher than normal say 850rpm. If I so much at touch the throttle peddle, it's enough to cause it to settle back to a steady 600rpm. I don't really need to press the peddle, even placing my toe under the peddle and pulling it ever so slightly/gently towards me instead of pressing is enough to settle it. I haven't tried tapping it side to side, but I I'll check that too. It could even be a failing position sensor in the peddle itself?? (guessing) Dunno, they are complex beasties.  Still no error codes on my simple reader. Also car doesn't feel like there is any hesitation on the move.

On 31/03/2017 at 16:47, Llanigraham said:

Better method is to test the voltage first thing in the morning, before you start it, after the car has been "resting" for several hours. If you get a reading at or below 11.8v it is time to replace the battery.

 Cheers, I will have a look at in in the morning. 

 

I have noticed that when the idle is sitting higher than normal say 850rpm. If I so much at touch the throttle peddle, it's enough to cause it to settle back to a steady 600rpm. I don't really need to press the peddle, even placing my toe under the peddle and pulling it ever so slightly/gently towards me instead of pressing is enough to settle it. I haven't tried tapping it side to side, but I I'll check that too. It could even be a failing position sensor in the peddle itself?? (guessing) Dunno, they are complex beasties.  Still no error codes on my simple reader. Also car doesn't feel like there is any hesitation on the move.

 

Quick update:-

I had a little look at voltages at the battery. From cold I measured 12.2V, so possibly a tad low, I was expecting to see closer to 12.6V. That came up to 14.45V with car car at tickover. I'll take the car for a decent run and see if the cold voltage improves.