Lately when the car is cold it seems, putting into reverse or 1st gear to pull out driveway it can really clunk into gear or grind (not too sure what word describes it best)

Once driving gear changes seem fine but occasionally again going from neutral to first its a rough ride getting there.

Changing the gear oil today (thanks Bowders for guide) and on the inside of the drain cap there is defo some cery fine metal filings. Hope u can see them in the pic

Will see if the oil change helps...

On that evidence would you be thinking gearbox on way out or could it be something else?? 

Mk1 vrs 189kmiles

Seems to be same after changing the oil altho i only got about 1.3 litres out but it took bout 1 n 3quarters

Will see if improves. If not will probably have to bring it in somewhere

Have you tried bleeding the clutch hydraulics at all?.

1 hour ago, kentphil1 said:

Have you tried bleeding the clutch hydraulics at all?.

 

Nope. Does the clutch have its own fluid resevoir or is it the same one for clutch and brake fluid?

Is there a little bleed nipple of the slave cylinder?

Havent a clue bout doing this but a vid injust watched said you can do it 'gravity bleeding' just open nipple and top up resevoir as u go

Ill have a look in the Haynes book of knowledge

Thanks for reply

The clutch reservoir is the same as the brake reservoir, the pipe is attached higher up the reservoir body.

 

The clutch slave has its own nipple, don't overtighten it as the main cylinder is plastic in it's construction.

 

Only real way to get a proper pedal without issues unless you are really lucky is to pressure bleed the system.

 

As usual, a bit of reading matter - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/power_transmission/gearbox_002/clutch_control/repairing_the_clutch_control/bleeding_the_clutch_system/

 

Hope it helps,

 

Phil

13 hours ago, kentphil1 said:

The clutch reservoir is the same as the brake reservoir, the pipe is attached higher up the reservoir body.

 

The clutch slave has its own nipple, don't overtighten it as the main cylinder is plastic in it's construction.

 

Only real way to get a proper pedal without issues unless you are really lucky is to pressure bleed the system.

 

As usual, a bit of reading matter - http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/power_transmission/gearbox_002/clutch_control/repairing_the_clutch_control/bleeding_the_clutch_system/

 

Hope it helps,

 

Phil

 

Can always get the garage to do that. Guessing its cheap process,just need rite kit

Bit daft but checked res level (should of been first thing) and it was on min line at best so on way to store for Dot 5 iirc

Changed brake hoses recently so had stupidly presumed lvl in resevoir was good. Will top it up and see then

Thanks for info btw Phil

 

was watching a few vids. worth a try doing the buddy method just get someone pump the clutch and open the nipple on slave...try that a bit?

obviously i dont have one of the pressure bleed bottles

Hi all i have a 2001 2.0 skoda octavia with auto transmission (code FDG) recently it started to slip and then would be ok and then it would slip and would not engage back into gear unless i moved it into 3rd and then back into drive. I changed the fluid and the filter was fine for a while and now its back to slipping and not engaging check the code it gave and it was incorrect gear ratio. is it a sign the valve body is on its way out?? please any one got any ideas  

6 minutes ago, Stu81 said:

Hi all i have a 2001 2.0 skoda octavia with auto transmission (code FDG) recently it started to slip and then would be ok and then it would slip and would not engage back into gear unless i moved it into 3rd and then back into drive. I changed the fluid and the filter was fine for a while and now its back to slipping and not engaging check the code it gave and it was incorrect gear ratio. is it a sign the valve body is on its way out?? please any one got any ideas  

 

hey Stu. ive no idea mate but you should probably start your own topic so people can see your topic heading. sorry cant help

obviously search the forums, full of helpful threads

Edited 24 May, 20179 yr by huwants2no

The buddy method should work provided you keep the bleed pipe you fit over the nipple well covered in fluid in the bleed bottle to prevent suckback of air into the system.

 

I have always found that a pressure bleeder just gives a nicer feeling pedal, but you could do it buddy method to rule it in or out as a cause, and if it makes an improvement, you could always have it pressure bled later. As your level was low, I would have good look around the slave cylinder for leaks, as the bodies have been known to hairline crack with age in cold weather, which we've had a bit of recently, and the feed pipes have been known to split as well.

 

Edited 24 May, 20179 yr by kentphil1

6 minutes ago, kentphil1 said:

The buddy method should work provided you keep the bleed pipe you fit over the nipple well covered in fluid in the bleed bottle to prevent suckback of air into the system.

 

I have always found that a pressure bleeder just gives a nicer feeling pedal, but you could do it buddy method to rule it in or out as a cause, and if it makes an improvement, you could always have it pressure bled later. As your level was low, I would have good look around the slave cylinder for leaks, as the bodies have been known to hairline crack with age in cold weather, which we've had a bit of recently, and the feed pipes have been known to split as well.

 

 

sounds good. think il try that 2morrow. was watching a vid and the guy was saying air in the lines would make it tricky finding 1st and reverse which is me exactly so will see. and then as u say could get it pressure bled again

tnx again

Sounds like a plan.

On 5/24/2017 at 23:06, kentphil1 said:

Sounds like a plan.

 

Had a go at bleeding the slave as gear changing getting little bit worse

After first pump and opening bleed nipple did see some bubbles in the line but repeated this about 6 times and had solid flow of fluid

2 things i noticed...

1 the level in resevoir didnt seem to lower

And 2 as the clutch pedal reaches the floor theres a creaking noise coming from gearbox area. Doesnt sound good to me:(

any suggestions? Or is it time to call by the garage??

 

Creaking noise could just be the fork moving on it's pivot - remember yours has done a fair mileage, so odds are the lubrication has dried out on the pivot. Has bleeding the system helped at all? Have you checked the clutch pedal/pedal box as well? The pedals are known to break, so could be it has a fracture that is opening up as you push the pedal.

The deposits on your plug look fine to me, if it was like a pine cone, then I would be concerned.

2 minutes ago, octyal said:

Creaking noise could just be the fork moving on it's pivot - remember yours has done a fair mileage, so odds are the lubrication has dried out on the pivot. Has bleeding the system helped at all? Have you checked the clutch pedal/pedal box as well? The pedals are known to break, so could be it has a fracture that is opening up as you push the pedal.

The deposits on your plug look fine to me, if it was like a pine cone, then I would be concerned.

 

Thanks for reply

Is it possible to lube up the pivot again?

After bleeding the clutch feels the same but will take for a spin and see how the gear change goes. was fairly bad last nite.

had a quick look around the pedal before and all looked dry and healthy. will check it again.

Saw a vid just now on a Civic tho and the guy had similar creaking noise. he popped off the slave cylinder and stuffed some white lithium grease onto the pivot/ball just inside the bell housing

really sounds like its coming from the housing in mine

will post back after a drive and another look see

Took for a spin

Still really struggling to find the occaaional gear. Mostly 1st 3rd and reverse

anything i can try myself before taking to someone?

 

You could try checking the linkage alignment, it may have a bit of slack in the cables by now.

Hi,

     Myself was chasing the same issue for over a year, at one point almost purchased a used tranny thinking that it was shot. There are many things that needs to checked before the tranny needs a replacement and trust me on this hundreds of old VWs are getting scrapped because they shift bad.. how funny isn’t it??

1.       Gear lever front to back and side to side free play-  The front to back gear lever free play should not be more than 5mm. The side to side play should be zero. If this is not as per the specs above it will show the same symptoms that you face now. You can check the link. https://youtu.be/tnftEgZTykc

 

2.       There are two bushings that help with the reversing mechanism and usually the bottom bushings would be shot No 3 & 4.

 

3.       If your car has run more than 100k miles its better to change the cable catchers since its only a few quid. Mostly the rubber bushings of the catcher will be shot. Skoda Part Number 1J0711761C & 1J0711761B

 

The bushes that needs checking are marked in the pics below and after inspection if it needs replacement a kit is now available

link below

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162556017889?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

 

Regards

Train

Edited 17 June, 20178 yr by trainautos
pic

@kentphil1 tried the reset linkage bout 5weeks back. Mite go again as need to inspect again anyway. Thanks as always

@trainautos watched your tube videos and I have way more play in shift stick, forward/back and considerably more sideways. Will have close look at the bushes in the pic you attached. Appreciate your input

How did you resolve your issue in the end?

If you are rechecking the cables, just check that none of the "fingers" in the cable end that release when you lock back the collar against the spring are broken. They need to be very intact to grip the threaded part of the cable once the locking collar is released against the spring. Very interesting info from trainautos there, is there a strip down with any photos at all?.

 

@kentphil1 yeah was interesting that. I pulled back the gaitor for a quick look and couldn't believe all the gunge on mine. Think having worked on a golfcourse,over the years I brought a lot of crud and sand and dirt into the car.was a fair bit in there too. Guy in garage the on Saturday asked me about the gearoil. Told him I changed few weeks back.but thinking about it the front of car as on home made ramps so filling back up wasn't level. Mite get the garage to check the level for me on their ramp as at least it will be level.it drained about 1.3litres and only took 1.7litres

Haynes says should be 2.2lts

As for a video or pics I'll have a look on you tube. Always tends to be a mkiv platform video there on most topics so will try find a bushes replace one on the gear stick setup

 

 

a start anyway,lots of other links on this vid that mite be useful

Thanks for that. V. useful.

On 6/18/2017 at 22:44, huwants2no said:

@kentphil1 yeah was interesting that. I pulled back the gaitor for a quick look and couldn't believe all the gunge on mine. Think having worked on a golfcourse,over the years I brought a lot of crud and sand and dirt into the car.was a fair bit in there too. Guy in garage the on Saturday asked me about the gearoil. Told him I changed few weeks back.but thinking about it the front of car as on home made ramps so filling back up wasn't level. Mite get the garage to check the level for me on their ramp as at least it will be level.it drained about 1.3litres and only took 1.7litres

Haynes says should be 2.2lts

As for a video or pics I'll have a look on you tube. Always tends to be a mkiv platform video there on most topics so will try find a bushes replace one on the gear stick setup

 

My car was level, or maybe just a tad off-level nose high, and took around 1.8 litres. Sounds about right.

Edited 20 June, 20178 yr by Skoda_newby
spelling mistake

when I filled mine after changing, I found that after rotating the wheels after filling, it moved sufficient oil around the box that it took about another 1/3 of a litre.