My battery has gone dead

started ok this morning and I drove about 2 miles to the doctors 

then 2 miles back

headlights and wipers

got home at 10:30

car has been outside in the rain

tried to start at 10:30 pm to put it in the garage and it was dead.

been ok up to then but usually do at least 10-20 miles min if I am out at the shops

been to Bristol over the weekend so that was 530 miles 

I would think that would charge ok

 

i have a charger but not sure on this car how to access the terminals and if I get a new battery if there are any caveats on replacing and starting up....the golf was wait 20 mins to let the computer reset

 

grateful for help

 

cheers

geof

 

First question normally is, "does the charge warning light come on when you switch on the key to the first position?"  - if not there is a possibility that a lead has broken under the car.

If the above is okay, then you really need to get hold of a multimeter and check that the battery is being charged up when the engine is running, even when electrical loads like lights and rear window heater is on, I'd expect to see roughly 13.6ish volts at 3000 RPM.

Connecting a charger to the battery, the battery might look difficult to get access to the terminals, but if you look closely you will probably find that you can hinge up the covered +ve terminal.

I've never experienced any issues with taking off or refitting a battery in a VW group car, with the exception of needing to reset the electric windows.

After that it will be down to checking what the drain from the battery is when the engine is switched off, just in case there is a fault.

Edited 28 June, 20179 yr by rum4mo

Thanks for replying 

 

when i got into the car the interior lights were not on

i put the key in and tried to start the engine but it was dead

i checked the light switch but there were no lights although the little courtesy lights were visible

the cd would not eject and eventually the car locked itself...the key fob managed to unlock

its dark and wet but I had a look at the battery 

the cables at the terminals seem ok but the little cable holder on top seems wobbly

is that normal?

cheers

geof

 

 

I recon judging by the age of the car, its worn out now. I fitted a Bosch battery with a 4 or 5 year warranty, forget which, to mine about a year or so ago and its been perfect ever since. Nice handle on it too, to aid lifting and fitting!

Possibly the plastic holder is slightly "Flexible" But if the actual metal screw/bolt fixings are wobbly, it might need tightening up to operate correctly. A loose battery will be unreliable. The battery is reasonably simple to swap over. The usual plus and minus bolts to loosen and remove, along with the clamp that holds it in place. The battery terminals are size 10mm, if memory serves me we'll and the clamp a 13mm jobbie. The plastics clip off and need kind of folding back out of the way a bit when pulling out/replacing the battery. No worry about leaving it a while to reset, you will need to reset the clock though but the audio should reset its-self. It might take a few seconds after turning it on, to check its own code. It will say "SAFE" and then set. 

 

You may find the car runs a little odd few a few miles as the ECU goes through its own diagnostics etc and re-evaluates the fuelling etc. Perfectly normal and it'll settle down after a few miles. Keep the key with you so as not to lock it in the car when you re-connect the new item!!!

 

Windows will need re-setting too. press and hold them down, holding a few extra seconds when fully down. Repeat to close, again, holding after fully closed for a few seconds. Test them out and try again if not successful.

 

 

Oh, neg off first, on last. Check the usual online discount suppliers for the best deal on price, it should get delivered in a day or two.

Edited 29 June, 20179 yr by mrgf

7 hours ago, mrgf said:

I recon judging by the age of the car, its worn out now. I fitted a Bosch battery with a 4 or 5 year warranty, forget which, to mine about a year or so ago and its been perfect ever since. Nice handle on it too, to aid lifting and fitting!

Possibly the plastic holder is slightly "Flexible" But if the actual metal screw/bolt fixings are wobbly, it might need tightening up to operate correctly. A loose battery will be unreliable. The battery is reasonably simple to swap over. The usual plus and minus bolts to loosen and remove, along with the clamp that holds it in place. The battery terminals are size 10mm, if memory serves me we'll and the clamp a 13mm jobbie. The plastics clip off and need kind of folding back out of the way a bit when pulling out/replacing the battery. No worry about leaving it a while to reset, you will need to reset the clock though but the audio should reset its-self. It might take a few seconds after turning it on, to check its own code. It will say "SAFE" and then set. 

 

You may find the car runs a little odd few a few miles as the ECU goes through its own diagnostics etc and re-evaluates the fuelling etc. Perfectly normal and it'll settle down after a few miles. Keep the key with you so as not to lock it in the car when you re-connect the new item!!!

 

Windows will need re-setting too. press and hold them down, holding a few extra seconds when fully down. Repeat to close, again, holding after fully closed for a few seconds. Test them out and try again if not successful.

 

 

Oh, neg off first, on last. Check the usual online discount suppliers for the best deal on price, it should get delivered in a day or two.

Thanks.

I had a look this morning when it was light and got the top plastic bit slackened off, got some info off the Skoda manual site and will do a donation, handy for a punter like me.

I have on order a varna 74 Ah silver battery from Tanya and hopefully it will arrive tomorrow.

so it's walking boots for me today, and the bus, got a bus pass!

I really appreciate your post and the caveat..neg first

many thanks 

cheers

geof

 

Edited 29 June, 20179 yr by mrcrow

battery has arrived now...and i have removed the transit plugs...red and see that they were in vent holes for the battery

i notice that there seems to be a cover over what i suspect are the cell vents or topping up holes

i understand that this could be a sealed battery...but the old one has a little indicator on the top and if this battery has it i would need to take off this cover to see it...

any owners of this type of varta...77Ah...silver model...for skoda and others i guess

might shed some light on this...i dont want to force off the cover if it is meant to stay and the indicator idea on the old one isnt on this...

most of my batteries were fully sealed which i do guess this is...but caution and advice would help

cheers

geof

One of these transit plugs stays in, the other gets a drain hose fitted to it. Edited, the reason for providing two vent points is to comply with different ways of fitting these batteries in different cars.

 

Most modern batteries are sealed for life, so no need to throw any distilled water into them over their life time.

 

For what it is worth, Bosch and Varta seem to use the same battery design - but different colour of plastics!

Edited 30 June, 20179 yr by rum4mo

59 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

One of these transit plugs stays in, the other gets a drain hose fitted to it. Edited, the reason for providing two vent points is to comply with different ways of fitting these batteries in different cars.

 

Most modern batteries are sealed for life, so no need to throw any distilled water into them over their life time.

 

For what it is worth, Bosch and Varta seem to use the same battery design - but different colour of plastics!

 

well did you ever?...what a swell party this is...

bing and frank..

 

Dont recollect any transit screws in my Bosch! Great battery though. My ol' Yaris had a Panasonic which lasted a good decade, then died of old age. Replaced that with a Bosch too but I don't expect a decade out of an aftermarket battery.

My 51 from new VW golf battery lasted about 12 years. .a varta model...but the car was garaged all that time, and afterwards till I sold it last year 135k on the clock so it was pretty low mileage per annum, 15 years

Struggling here.. No 13mm socket!!

All my tools are imperial from 1960....

I am charging up the old battery to get me down to the garage in town to get them to slacken off the clamp.... Any suggestions welcomed

Cheers

GEOF

Edited 1 July, 20179 yr by mrcrow

 

 

18 hours ago, mrgf said:

Dont recollect any transit screws in my Bosch! Great battery though. My ol' Yaris had a Panasonic which lasted a good decade, then died of old age. Replaced that with a Bosch too but I don't expect a decade out of an aftermarket battery.

 

yes the little plugs seemed to be in the lid of the compartment where i suspect the cells can breathe into

not sure about a drain pipe though...will check that out...see earlier post by rum4mo

" One of these transit plugs stays in, the other gets a drain hose fitted to it. Edited, the reason for providing two vent points is to comply with different ways of fitting these batteries in different cars. "

 

the directions on the packaging said to remove both..which i did and now the battery is in its slot doing its job

i will however check the holes for any liquid discharge...if its a vent only i guess the fumes get blown away in the slipstream..

 

my early morning soire...7am...sun is out at last...to fit the new battery...as noted above i didnt have a 13mm socket

my tools are all imperial...the 1/2" wouldnt fit and since the bolt was so tight could have rounded off the corners..

i did try it and it fell off the extension bar and now lives in the under sump wind shield...some day it will roll out...goodbye...i will get a metric socket set now...!!

my dealer said he would change the battery but was on pumps till 11 am and then selling a car which was going out at 11:30 so come down...around 12

giving me about 4 hours to charge the old beast on the car...disconnected..to see if i could get it to crank the engine

and it did...

got down there at 11:45 and the dealer fitted my new battery ..13mm socket...quick as you like.. so its in place now and will see me till i am 80...5 years..

i will take the old one to the recycling facility on monday...good bye too

its a small one compared to the one i put in....i put in a 77Ah as advised by the chaps here

panic over

cheers

geof

 

 

 

TA TA

Edited 1 July, 20179 yr by mrcrow

I had an issue with my Fabia Monte Carlo 1.2 TSI where the battery kept dying.

 

everytime it was checked by the roadside recovery people, the battery health check was showing as normal.

 

Turned out that Skoda were aware of and fixed an issue with my car; had something to do with earth wires.

 

Yhe resistance was either too high or low I cannot remember and as a result when the engine was  idling, not enough power was being supplied from the alternator which was absouloutly fine itself.

 

the alternator was kicking out the correct power but it wasn't reaching the battery while idling.

 

 

Thought I'd share that in case you suspected that your battery may not have been the issue.

mrcrow, I tend to keep my old batteries for a few years maybe as a source of power for 12 volt lights in winter, now they last longer if needed seeing as LED lights are available!

My main 1/2" socket set is an old Bedford Whitworth + AF imperial one as well, inherited from my father, but a full set of metric Britool sockets have been added to it as there was plenty spare space in that case! When I was newly married and moved into our first and brand new house, I used to use some of my "pocket money" to buy these Britool metric sockets from the local car parts place, maybe a couple a week!

Edited 9 July, 20178 yr by rum4mo

Good thinking

I went out straight away and got a 13mm socket dedicated to my new Skoda battery, if it ever needs to come out.

my sockets are 1/2 square which is strange in some ways and I was worried the metric sockets might be metric driven i.e. 12mm square!!

rule brittania says me 

Cheers 

geof 

6 hours ago, kieranharvey95 said:

I had an issue with my Fabia Monte Carlo 1.2 TSI where the battery kept dying.

 

everytime it was checked by the roadside recovery people, the battery health check was showing as normal.

 

Turned out that Skoda were aware of and fixed an issue with my car; had something to do with earth wires.

 

Yhe resistance was either too high or low I cannot remember and as a result when the engine was  idling, not enough power was being supplied from the alternator which was absouloutly fine itself.

 

the alternator was kicking out the correct power but it wasn't reaching the battery while idling.

 

 

Thought I'd share that in case you suspected that your battery may not have been the issue.

 Yes.. I saw this on the golf mk4 forum as well...and didn't even cross my mind.

i did need a new battery on age and so got a 77Ah one now much larger than the old one but fits the tray

next job is to check the earth cable to the chassis...it's right there above the air filter.

i think it's got to be metal on metal and no allowed to attach where there is paint 

cheers

geof

 

...Also, Skoda are particular about this, NO grease, petroleum jelly, etc on the battery terminals. Seems to fly in the face of usual belief but its what they say! Make sure the terminals are tight but not overtightened.

 

As for tools... You quite simply CANNOT beat the old, proper, British tools. They lasted years without bending, snapping and rounding off!  

 

American and German are ok too but BRIT IS BEST!

Edited 9 July, 20178 yr by mrgf

28 minutes ago, mrgf said:

...Also, Skoda are particular about this, NO grease, petroleum jelly, etc on the battery terminals. Seems to fly in the face of usual belief but its what they say! Make sure the terminals are tight but not overtightened.

 

As for tools... You quite simply CANNOT beat the old, proper, British tools. They lasted years without bending, snapping and rounding off!  

 

American and German are ok too but BRIT IS BEST!

that i agree

in my tool box the oldest tool is the hammer i got in 1959 as i went into the engineer shop as an apprentice

i have really USED it and it is still in use...

along with ring a ding dings...****sters...and a screwdriver i made my self from a square file...softened it and shaped it

rehardened and tempered..it has a lignum vitae handle...split and held with tape...hammered it a lot

and a little screwdriver which you can put a ring spanner on the handle...an early impact screw taker outer

 

moore and wright...right?

On ‎09‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 15:52, mrcrow said:

Good thinking

I went out straight away and got a 13mm socket dedicated to my new Skoda battery, if it ever needs to come out.

my sockets are 1/2 square which is strange in some ways and I was worried the metric sockets might be metric driven i.e. 12mm square!!

rule brittania says me 

Cheers 

geof 

 

Yes it is one of these funny things, we always used vibration tables with  M10 holes on a 2" matrix, and stubbornly stuck with unified threads on control accelerometers.

Edited 15 July, 20178 yr by rum4mo

3 hours ago, rum4mo said:

 

Yes it is one of these funny things, we always used vibration tables with  M10 holes on a 2" matrix, and stubbornly stuck with unified threads on control accelerometers.

....And back here, on Earth!!!

1 hour ago, mrgf said:

....And back here, on Earth!!!

 

That was/is on Earth, no space cadets here - yet!

2 hours ago, mrgf said:

....And back here, on Earth!!!

 

fee fi fo fum..i smell the blood of an si unit

when i did design work..steel and concrete

we had a change from

in..cm..and metres

lbs to kilos

force..lbs to newtons

a ton became a tonne

and

the force of gravity..g  used to be 32.2 feet per sec per sec changed to kilograms per metres per sec per sec

9.80665 ..a kilogram force...that is a kilo divided by gravitational acceleration

weight and force are different...gravity units are now used

sectional moduli changed from inch units to cm units and allowable stresses lbs per square inch

to n/cm squared....im lost now...it got so ponderous..i retrained in accountancy

money=money

bank=bank

debt=debt

so...what are we saying..not much but here is an old adage from the structural offices of london's offshore designers

 

a load is a load and a code is a code

the steel doesnt know what its being design to...just make is safe

cheers

geof

Edited 15 July, 20178 yr by mrcrow

Years ago, the company I worked for, did for some unknown reason, had a "communications" group and they worked mainly in the offshore oil industry sector, so they tended to customise metric instrument cabinets that ended up with customer's BSW/Whitworth and BA threads, customer's suppliers unified threads both UNC and UNF, then of course our own metric fittings!  That must of made life a bit tricky for any company that supported these cabinets/racks some time later.

35 minutes ago, rum4mo said:

Years ago, the company I worked for, did for some unknown reason, had a "communications" group and they worked mainly in the offshore oil industry sector, so they tended to customise metric instrument cabinets that ended up with customer's BSW/Whitworth and BA threads, customer's suppliers unified threads both UNC and UNF, then of course our own metric fittings!  That must of made life a bit tricky for any company that supported these cabinets/racks some time later.

its like that in petrochem as well

each company have their own specifications for nearly all areas of the companies activities

aramco have a specification for shape and size of bananas for the companies food halls..

dohhh

 

i am doing my bathroom over to a shower room...the bungalow was built in 1987 or there abouts

the copper stuff is ok..15mm etc but the wastes are all over the place

i think i have identified

32,36,38,40,42 mm dia..inside or outside??

solvent weld, compression, push fit, and finally in the piping line..push fit and the worst...soldered..how do you drain down a complete system dry enough to sweat off fittings...i am re routing the piping at the wc...its all jammed in a corner and the stop **** is frozen up and looks like its half built into the corner at floor level

its fun...and a challenge to someone who hasnt done this for years

to rip up the floor tiling i bought a TITAN 240v rambo drill...£56..the same as two days tool hire and i get to keep it...with 2 years guarantee...got it at screwfix..

more later maybe i am bushed

cheers

geof

On that topic, I think that all these individual plastic pipe manufacturers have their own "standards" - one of my issues will be not knowing which solder fittings have leaded solder or lead free solder, which is a nuisance when you like to add a bit extra to the joints as you flow them!

 

Water wandering back into drained sections of pipe, yes, I've been there, you end up thinking "why is this solder joint not melting?" - answer, "because you are just heating up the water inside dummy!".

 

No DIY jobs are meant to be easy or straight forward!

17 hours ago, rum4mo said:

On that topic, I think that all these individual plastic pipe manufacturers have their own "standards" - one of my issues will be not knowing which solder fittings have leaded solder or lead free solder, which is a nuisance when you like to add a bit extra to the joints as you flow them!

 

Water wandering back into drained sections of pipe, yes, I've been there, you end up thinking "why is this solder joint not melting?" - answer, "because you are just heating up the water inside dummy!".

 

No DIY jobs are meant to be easy or straight forward!

 

Who's dummy.....I did do it once...forgot my steam theory

cheers

geof